Travel for a while and, with luck, you will come across those 'pinch me' places. Ferdinand Magellan was the first European to come through here in 1520. There were others already here of course. The Yaghan and, a little to the north, the Selk'nam had been around for fair while at that time. And now it is us, plus just a few other tourists. Tierra del Fuego has been, for me, a place synonomous with wild landscapes, even more spectacular seas and heroic deeds since I was a child. A few years ago I read a book about the voyages of Robert Fitzroy and then Charles Darwin on the HMS Beagle. The island at the end of of the world where smoke rises continuously is a place I never thought I would visit. In season, Tierra
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