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Published: October 23rd 2006
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The Lake District
There's an obvious reason why this part of northern Patagonia is called the Lake District . . . and it's a beautiful one. When you hear the word Patagonia, what do you think of? Whatever it is, it will probably never compare with what you will see when you actually arrive there.
In my first major excursion out of Buenos Aires in a month, I decided to go straight for the throat and head down south to the northern part of Patagonia, known as the Lake District. In a laughable twist of irony, after spending an entire month in BA with friends, I boarded a bus alone just a few hours before the start of my birthday. Luckily, I met a fantastically nice Irish girl and British guy on the bus, and we ended up spending the next few days together hiking.
Bariloche is one of the ultimate tourist destinations for Argentines (and well-off Brazilians as well). You practically can't walking around the streets of Buenos Aires without seeing at least a few "Bariloche" t-shirts. As well, it's a place where most high schoolers take their big final trip for graduation. The city itself is much smaller than I expected, but full of wooden alpine architecture as well as some delicious chocolate shops. (Our hostel, La Bolsa de Deportes was a wonderfully
A view of blue
Looking through the bus window as our ruta winds through the various lakes at the top of the Lake District. It's beautiful and shocking after emerging from the dry Pampas. crafted piece of said architecture with a very lively atmosphere. Highly recommended.) What really makes it fantastic is the setting, right on the end of the enormous, deep blue lake Nahuel Huapi with the snow-capped Andes mountains raising on the other side.
After a very tasty birthday dinner of salmon, our group set off the next day to hike up a nearby mountain known as Cerro López (2076 m). The views as you climb are just spectacular. It's just an amazing panorama of the deep greenish-blue of the water, dark greens and grays of the trees, blueish black of the mountains, blinding white of the snow, and bright clear blue of the sky. The Patagonia palette is just unspeakably beautiful. As you ascend the landscape changes drastically from dense forests and rivers to rocky scattered trees to . . . snow. It's amazing the way that it will change so completely and so quickly.
Our day hike took us up to a refugio where we had a tasty lunch of ham and avocado sandwiches. A curious Argentine youth asked us where we were from. Learning that we were from the States and Ireland, he excited began a barage
Action shot
Me and snow. Reunited at long last. of questions. Soon, the entire school group that was there, crowded around us, asking questions, taking pictures, and drinking mate with us. It was a great experience that couldn't help but make us all smile, especially when they sent us off with a farewell song.
The next day we planned a two-day hike up and down Cerro Catedral (2388 m). After four hours or so, we reached near the summit and the Refugio Emilio Frey. The refuge sat at nearly the top of the mountain, at the edge of a windswept, frozen lake surrounded by sharp, snowy ridges. It's amazing how cold and windy it got up there, but luckily we stayed warm inside the refuge and spent a pleasant night hunkered up inside the safety of the building and our sleeping bags.
Unfortunately the ridges circled the refuge, only opening to the east, and blocked what would have been a beautiful sunset. So, I got the brilliant idea of setting out right before the sun set to climb over the ridge and see hopefully the most beautiful sight ever. Easier said than done. So, Anita, my Irish companion and the only one of our group crazy enough
Yellow, white, and blue
This wonderfully bright yellow plant grows in many of the trees in the region. to join me, and I set off. In order to avoid the frozen lake we took a roundabout way that took us over a large patch of rocks. Then, we saw a long, narrow passageway of snow leading up through some enormous sections of protuding rock and decided to go for it . . . of course lacking any and all appropriate equipment. The passageway was really more like a nearly vertical wall of snow and ice, around 70º from horizontal or so, and we were climbing merely by punching holes in the top layer of ice with our hands and feet and pulling ourselves up. Eventually the wall became even too steep for us, and we moved over to an ascending rock wall. Clinging to the side of the rock, we climbed a good bit and were nearly the top when we decided that it was simply too dangerous to go on; we didn't have proper equipment, and it would be getting dark soon. Now for getting down. To make a long story short, I basically thought I was going to die on top of a mountain . . . or at least spend the night up there. (I
Nuevos amigos
The group of high schoolers that we met in a refugio on top of Cerro López send us off with song and dance. kept thinking, Ooo, my mom would not be happy right now . . .) Luckily though as you can see, I survived, safe and sound and even made it back down the mountain the next day.
Truly, this area is purely, amazingly beautiful. And I use the word "pure" in all senses. It's a place where you can get out and enjoy staggeringly awesome views of unspoilt nature and breathe in crisp, clean air. Certainly a welcome change from the high-rises and pollution of BA. I'd love to be able to explore further south into the truly desolate parts of Patagonia, but my schedule won't allow it. Either way, it's been an unforgettable few days in a unforgettable place. The pictures only give a mere hint of all that there is.
Upward and onward. Next up, dinosaurs.
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Tone Loc
non-member comment
either your fingers were still cold..
from all that snow you dug through to get to the top of that ridge, or you've been out of an english speaking country for too long. your spelling/grammar is hilarious :) *pushes glasses up on nose, fixes retainer* sccho uh, anyway... gorgeous stuff dude. now i see why Patagonia clothes are so stupid expensive, you're paying for the scenery that you should think about every time you utter the brand name. smart marketing.