Small Car, Big Plans

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While the buses in Argentina are plush, their routes tend to dictate your travel path. We decided to rent a car and get off the beaten track for a few days. I enjoyed the freedom and flexibility having our own car allowed us. As we sped south from Mendoza to Malargue I marveled at the beauty of the desert and the tangibility of the landscape from the passenger seat. Malargue has a lot to offer and is famous for having a multitude of volcanoes and other natural wonders.

The first night we wanted to get as close to our destination as possible and take advantage of our wheels. We slept on a riverbank under a sweeping tree canopy at the foot of bridge. The view of the river was lovely and we were sheltered from the wind. We congratulated ourselves on our tent scouting abilities but weren't sure if the locals would smile on our thrifty behavior. We lazed in our hammocks and waited till nightfall to set up camp. The biting bugs became fierce as night descended and we retreated to the car where we ate our noodles by the light of our headlamps. Like fugitives, we clamped our hands over our beams when we saw the approach of headlights. I am sure we were overly cautious as the only visitor we received was a curious teenager on a 4 wheeler.

The next morning we took to the treacherous dirt roads in search of Termas Grande. It wasn't mentioned in our guide book or by the tourist info center; we stumbled upon this little gem just by taking a chance on a listing on our road map. After a harrowing river crossing we rolled up to a damp field nestled in a green valley at the base of Cerro Campanario. We were the only ones camped in the field but shared the pasture with a handful of skinny cows. The thermal pools were small and filled with milky colored water. Minerals tinged the water but the typical sulfur smell was absent. We soaked our sandal worn feet and drank jug wine late into the night. The pools were deserted and we watched the bright stars of the southern skies to the lulling rush of the river.

We took two tours this week, both in Spanish. While Mike speaks fairly well, I struggle to translate my thoughts to my mouth. I understand far more than I can convey but following specifics about fossils from the Jurassic, or was that Triassic, period are beyond me. The first tour was taken with an enthusiastic Argentinian couple and we climbed dusty hills to a dramatic cascade. Halfway up the falls lay a damp cave and the spray from the water distorted the view of the valley and threw rainbows against the cave walls. The following day we followed our guide to the rocky remains of Volcàn Malacara.

Again I understood little but enjoyed the tour all the same. We walked through small canyons with sculpted black shiny rock then into two secondary chimneys. Farther on the walls were light colored and smoothed into swirling shapes and holes. The light above the vaulted ceilings beamed down casting celestial shafts of light on the sand. We crawled through openings and continued on till we reached a cavern that was nearly dark. When we left the tour Mike and I drove on to a lagoon location that promised the sight of flamingos. We were sure we were lost and just then we saw a glimmer of water that shimmered in the desert heat. Happily we gathered our books, water and lunch and started out across the cracked clay towards the blue line. As we approached a foul smell began and grew stronger with each step, the cracked clay gave way to black fetid mud and Mike cringed as it began to seep over the edge of his sandals. The mud threatened to overtake us and while gagging we pulled out the binoculars and caught a glimpse of the elusive birds far in the distance. Oasis! What a joke.

That night we camped in town and enjoyed the comforts a municipal campground. Mike grilled on the parillia (his new favorite past time) and we chatted with our neighbors. The next day was early because we wanted to hike Castillos de Pincheira and we had to get the car back (in one piece minus a cracked rim) to Mendoza. While we wouldn't do it in a big city, the freedom car rental granted was blissful.

Termas Grande www.region.com.ar/.../imagenes/chile_termas.jpg
Volcan Malacara www.airesdelibertad.tur.ar/.../malacara.jpg
Castillias www.fotografiaypaisajes.com/pagina_tf6.htm

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