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Published: August 7th 2007
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written by Miss Wendy O Just when you think our rub-your-face-in-it blog was becoming a bit too predicatable, we decided to ditch our RTW itinerary, change our flights and change continents for a taste of Latin America.
We´ve spent 2 weeks in Buenos Aires, Argentina, home to Che (the dude on the bike), tango and to the finest steaks in the world. Touching down was a welcoming return to civilisation from the basic African life. Finally .... shops, bars and restaurants. There is definitely a european feel about BS AS and being Europeans ourselves we fit right in!!! The Latin vibe gives the city character and vibrancy (did I just make that word up?) and energy. There is a weird mixed feel of development and poverty here. For the first time on our travels we have seen the extreme difference in wealth ... a classic sign of a more developed country I guess.
So in 2 weeks Stuart and I explored and stayed in a few different barrios (districts). We got lost down the historic cobbled streets of San Telmo watching Tango dancers get HOT in the plaza´s, hung out in hip and funky Palermo and learned
La Boca Lamp Post
... did I mention the colourful lamp posts??? to speak spanish in the chaotic Centro.
Highlights of BS AS, good and bad are:
* The artists and tango quarter of La Boca. Hmmm the few streets of brighly coloured houses and "artists" displaying their work seemed like a different world to the one the local people live in and is evident from a strole through the barrio on the way to the tourist trap
* The first steak in months in a Parilla (grill) in San Telmo. Yum... now that´s how you cook a steak!
* Fine inexpensive Argentinian vino - welcome back!
* Hair Straightners. Honestly I was coping totally fine without them but Stuart insisted upon it saying he much preferred me with straight hair... and they were a bargain!!!
* Spanish classes and practising our new language on the locals. Stuart was a wee bit dissappointed however when he asked a shop keeper for the time (¿Que hora es?) and was passed a plastic bag instead. I´m getting heaps of mileage out that one
* Having lunch with Basilio (an old friend from Stuart´s AT&T days) and a couple of work mates.... Stuart really enjoyed seeing Basilio again
and he gave us top tips to explore his city.
* The cemetary in Recoleta. OK you must be thinking that I have lost it. Firstly I hear you ask why we are visiting random cemetaries and secondly why I am admitting it, but this cemetary is like no other. It was a village of narrow streets lined with the most architectually impressive tomb stones and head stones I have ever seen. Check out the pics. I felt a little bit sick taking photos in a cemetary but when in a Buenos Aires Cemetary .... Also did the obligatory duty of swinging past to see Evita
* It's raining stray smelly dogs and cats. They´re everywhere. In the parks, on the streets, in the hostels. Stuart and I swore that if we were granted one wish we would poison them all then feed them to the Mozambicans
* The Latin American Contemporary Art Museo. OK it might not exactly have been my taste, in fact I think it was pants but worth noting just how cultured we are!
* The drivers are crazy. Every time you have to cross the road is a hair raising experience.
The day we arrived and on our way into the city centre on the bus we saw a dead motorcyclist lying at the side of the road and his bike in bits underneath a bus. It was horrible but after a day in the city I understand why this happens! The drivers are lunatics and ruthless.
* I found the city very smoggy, packed with noisy screaming buses and even the only park you can really go running in is stinky, smoggy and pull of dog poo
* We went to see the moving march of the old ladies who lost their children in the early 90´s when they disappeared´under the old government being opposed at the time. They have never been found and the mums come to the Plaza de Mayo every Thursday afternoon to protest. There are only a handfull of them left and it was so sad to witness. More than 30,000 people disappeared overnight
* So what is with this 30 year old thing. Stuart and I had a few drinks then headed out with some other travellers on St Patricks Day to get a taste of the Buenos Aires nightlife and it
ended in disaster when I lost the ability to stand. I know I haven´t exactly been living life in the social fast lane since I started travelling but this is socially unacceptable behaviour. I am convinced someone spiked my drink (that old chestnut!). Don't worry Mum this is just what I say when I can´t handle my drink!
* Bring on the siesta. This is the part of Argentian culture we welcomed with open arms. And no wonder! They shut shop for a few hours for lunch, have a kip, head back to work for a couple of hours then eat large again at around 10pm.....
* Did I mention the steaks????
* The mosquitoes here are as ruthless as the drivers and take no prisoners. They attack all day and all night long and are the size of horses. The best form of defense is attack. One day Stuart and my leisurly stroll through the park ended up in a frantic dash to the pharmacy for the biggest bottle of the strongest mosquito repellent. We swear the farmacia nearest the park must be the worlds´best seller of repellent!
So after 4 different hostels, 2 weeks
of city life and many near-to-death experiences trying to cross the roads of BA AS it was time to move on .... We are taking a 18hr bus journey north to Iguazu Falls on the border with Brazil.
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Blair
non-member comment
Straight As...
The hair straighteners were definitely a good idea...