trekking in Shan State
December 28th 2005 At five in the morning a half dozen foreigners stand in the guesthouse lobby. Across the street trishaw wallahs sit complacently in the teashop sharing small talk over small cups of tea tasting of dirt and tree roots. Our bus journey departs Bagan before sunrise. I am cramped against the window in seat 12 next to a French Arab, a cook from the Cote d'Azur, who is friendly and opinionated and blind
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