Nuku'alofa, Tonga

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21^st February Nuku’alofa, Tonga



Having missed the 19^th February by crossing the international dateline we find ourselves in Tonga for the ships maiden port of call Nuku’alofa. This was to be an anchor port but we learnt that the new wharf had recently been completed and we were able to berth alongside the port. As it was a maiden call the band and local dignitaries were out in force but nobody told them about the weather. The approach to the port was through torrential rain (liquid sunshine) and we thought we were going to be in for a wet day. However, as we left the ship it began to brighten up but the rain had left the car parks where the coaches had parked somewhat damp/waterlogged (must be like home)



Nuku’alofa is the capital of the Kingdom of Tonga and is where most of the businesses reside. It has markets and a central business district which was destroyed during the 2006 riots. Tonga is a member of the Commonwealth, but the King has considerable powers, he appoints the Cabinet ministers, there is a Prime Minister and no political parties. Just as an aside China has invested heavily in Tonga’s infrastructure recently, particularly for upgrading roads and of course the new berthing facilities. As I understand it, it is for ‘geo-political’ gain.



The economy is based on tourism, agriculture and manufacturing. Agriculture products include squash, vanilla beans, root crops and fish (frozen & live). Manufacturing is primarily handicrafts. Tourism is being pushed by the government and whilst we were off ship today, the Princess apparently paid a visit.



We took an organised tour round the island. Walking to the car park an array of buses was waiting, the first bus we got on was ant ridden so that didn’t go down well with some of the punters. We had been warned that there was basic transport and that the guides were not professionally trained. Anyway we ended up on the local school bus (I think for little people) which was ‘bijou’ to say the least. Two lovely girls were our guides for the day with a driver who couldn’t care less where he took us.



The island tour was a photo opportunity at the Kings Palace through railings (handicraft benches on road side), the Royal Tombs again through railings before heading out the ‘blowholes on the coast. These blowholes were just erosion through the volcanic rock creating waterspouts via wave action. On a stormy day they might look good but on a calm day they were tame. Another retail opportunity for local handicraft with the odd pig thrown in (more about them later).



Next onto the ‘Bat Wood’, a colony of flying foxes regarded as sacred by the Tongans. There weren’t that many, they smell and they make a lot of noise. Enough said!!



Our final destination was to the Keleti Beach Resort for a local lunch with some Tongan Dancing. They brought the suckling pig on a trivet (with local chanting) to be carved ready for lunch. It was just like piping in the haggis on Burns Night!! Lots of home grown produce including tarot (a root vegetable), fried pineapple, plantain and some interesting fish.



The Tongan dancing which were mainly group dances included the ma’ulu’ulu (a sitting down dance with much swaying), lakalaka (danced by men with storytelling) and the kailoo (a war dance with drumming, stomping and brandishing of spears.



The ‘Beach Resort’ was very tired and run down, which is my over riding memory of the place. We were taken where I think the authorities wanted us to go but we had to drive through some areas which showed how poor some of the families were. The general tardiness of some the villages with old cars rusting in the gardens (front yards) and really squalor that they lived in. Pigs just roamed anywhere and the number of loose dogs everywhere was just incredible. Religion plays a big part of the culture of the Tongans and some of the churches in the villages were very elaborate and well kept.



Back at the ship, the market was in full swing for more retail therapy, mainly handicrafts and would you believe that they also set up a ‘Duty Free shop’ under an awning which I thought was pretty enterprising. I don’t know if it was for the benefit of the crew or passengers!!



Back on board for Sail away with the band playing on the quayside before guess what, the heavens opened and some more of the liquid sunshine drove us all undercover.



Next stop Tauranga, New Zealand

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