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Published: October 25th 2006
Pull over the chief
One of many incredible views on the drive from Fox to Queenstown.Back to our amazing campsite for the night where we watched the moonrise over Mount Cook and awoke to another spectacular day as we drove down the coast on our way to Queenstown. With breathtaking postcard scenery at every bend the drive was the most amazing we think we'll ever do. The meandering road brought a new and spectacular vista with every bend. At one point we were worried we wouldn't make it to Queenstown as we were stopping every kilometre to gawk at lake after lake and reflected snow-capped mountains. Drives like this make you realise that certain places in the World are over-endowed with beauty and New Zealand and particularly South Island has well, so much that it's just not fair!
Through the immense scenery around Haast we turned inland and sidled into Wanaka with our jaws open for lunch on the shores of the lake of the same name where spectacular blue skies were set off by vivid green mountains and lime green willows along the shore. Continuing inland through yet more mountainous terrain we arrived in what was clearly Middle Earth and the gorges north of
Queenstown, stopping off at the AJ Hackett bungee bridge before
Pulling over again!
One of many incredible views on the drive from Fox to Queenstown. checking into a campsite by the Gondolas. Queenstown as we discovered is a lovely resort packed with entertainment for the après ski crowd from the neighbouring Remarkables range. With loads of pubs, bars and restaurants to choose from, we settled for a little pool bar where I was lucky enough to catch Premiership highlights over a bottle of beer! Who say's this is the other side of the world?
In the morning we again took a stroll around the town to watch the Jet boats leave the dock and burn some photos before hitting the road towards Te Anau, gateway to
Milford Sound. Once past Te Anau we drove through thick pine forests before reaching the Eglington Valley where the valley opened out into a vast grassy plain between towering mountains. By now however the weather had really closed in and most of the peaks were completely shrouded in cloud and the valley grey with sheets of falling snow. The road incidentally was only created in recent times to provide access to the Sound through the previously impenetrable Southern Alps. The piece de la resistance of the road was the dark tunnel cut through a whopping mountain which when
The shore at Lake Wanaka
The colours all around the lake were dazzling. we emerged the other side brought us out into a fearsome landscape of steep hairpins with Avalanches on all sides which have clearly stopped just metres from the road.
Breathing a sigh of relief out of the avalanche zone, we pulled into "The Chasm" for a short forest walk to a point where falling melt water had sculptured incredible gulleys in the rock over thousands of years. When we pulled up at the shores of the Sound the skies began to clear and we were treated to an incredible view of Mitre Peak and its reflection as the sun burst through the clouds. As we stood taking in the view however, we were constantly attached by huge swarms of intolerable sand flies so after a while we decided enough was enough and travelled back to Mitre Lodge (the only accommodation there) to park up and spend some time relaxing in their communal lounge. When outside we were joined by a curios Kea, the worlds only species of Alpine Parrot who tamely hopped around our feet.
The next morning under clear skies and being dwarfed on all sides by snowy mountains we boarded our small mitre peak cruise boat
and headed out into Milford Sound. The Sound like many others in the region is a Fiord or deep gorge between steep mountains carved out by an ancient glacier but filled not by ice or rivers but by a flooding from the sea. In fact at its mouth on the Tasman Sea the depth of the sound is only 70m compared to 450m at its deepest point meaning the water is barely replenished by circulation and allowing a very unique habitat to thrive. Interestingly, the tannin stained fresh water which falls from the mountain snow does not mix with the saline body of water but sits on top creating a dark layer some 10m deep which with the help of the steep mountains blocks out most of the sunlight. The effect enables sea life normally found at the depths of the Ocean to dwell in the Fiord including the rare and fragile red and black coral.
Cruising past scoured rocks, diving penguins and fur seals we headed out to the mouth in the Tasman sea in the shadow of the immense shear faces on all sides before making a u turn and returning to port in the shade of
the vertical walls and past 100m high waterfalls. Back in port after a beautiful cruise we hit the Milford Road again and having witness the spectacular scenery in menacing conditions the day before we felt very lucky to see the same avalanched mountains again under clear blue skies. Back through the grassy plains and on past Te Anau once more we stopped at Kelvin Heights close to Queenstown, a mini mountain in comparison to those around it for a different view before finding a perfect DOC campsite right on the shores of Lake Wakitipu on the way to Glenorchy.
This being one of many Department of Conservation campsites we'd stopped at, it was clear that New Zealand is beautifully set up for independent tourism but retains a firm hold on its environmental obligations. With nearly everywhere being a National Park, the roads camps and tracks are all excellently maintained and you get the sense that however much tourism grows New Zealand will always hold the protection of their precious environment as its greatest priority. This is an exceptionally beautiful country, possibly one of the most naturally beautiful there is but we have definitely been given the impression it is
more lake reflections on the way to Wanaka
The contrast of colours all the way along was astounding in good hands.
From our camp by the edge of Wakitipu (Whose water levels incidentally rise and fall by 150mm every 5 minutes without explanation), we set off around the windy shore towards
Glenorchy. Known for its bountiful beauty and renowned routes for trekkers (Trampers here), our intention was to do a hike somewhere in the mountains. Although the DOC visitor centre was closed for winter we did manage to speak with a DOC rep and decided to walk a section of the world renowned
Routeburn track. After a stunning drive we began the walk by crossing a now familiar swing bridge and into the dense but sun dappled forest. Although we were only walking the first section of the famed route to Milford Sound, the full 4 day tramp winds its way up and over the glacier scored Southern Alps where convenient camping huts are dotted along the way. Our destination was the first of these huts in the wide flats along the Routeburn River in the midst of the Humboldt Mountains. The 7km walk took us through moss covered forests of red beech and across several river tributaries via wobbly swing bridges. In parts, the routeburn has
The Chasm
Over thousands of years this cascading water had eroded amazing smooth gulleys out of the bedrock. smoothed deep sculptured channels as it cascaded in all directions around fallen trees which had blocked the flow.
Every 20 metres or so, Alpine Robins, Yellow heads and other native birds swooped around us and sung fascinating calls. At one point a pair of yellow crowned parakeets tamely pondered us from a few feet. By the time we had first emerged from the forest for the first time we were in the grassy valley where the first trampers huts is located. Just taking in the views, we ate lunch in absolute solitude save for a few irritating sand flys and a friendly robin before beginning the 7km walk back through the forest. As we drove through the valley leading back to Queenstown, a vast plume of smoke rose from a forest fire at the base of the Remarkables range and left huge strips of dark cloud high up in the atmosphere; several days later we would hear on the radio the fire destroyed 60,000 hectares of forest Having topped up with Diesel we set off on the Easterly road toward Dunedin passing through Fruit country where at Cromwell, giant fibre glass fruit stood by the road side and Alexander
Mitre Peak in a mood
The conditions when we arrived at Milford Sound where the landscape changed dramatically once more.
Here we drove through huge rolling hills which were strewn with slab like boulders and sheets of rock which were scattered as if carefully placed. This landscape which undoubtedly featured in the Lord of the Rings, (the bit where Legolas spouts another achingly cheesy line about master's whips) marked our arrival in the "Old Man Range" and a handy campy spot nestled in the gorge of the Clutha River. At dawn we continued our journey toward the East Coast passing through a seemingly manicured landscape of immaculate green hills and isolated farms. The hills which could have been carpeted were of course manicured by the chomping jaws of sheep. Although this is the first real mention of the little fluffy animals, New Zealand is teaming with sheep to the value of 40 million; that's 10 sheep for every person! No doubt swelling at this time of year due to the millions of lambs which are jumping about in every plot.
80 or so kilometres on we hit Milton and turned up the coast past yet another Brighton and into the city of Dunedin (Gaelic for Edinburgh). The city which is steeped
Mitre Peak a little later
The conditions as the sun set in history and founded in a pre-arranged migration by the Scottish in 1848, spreads around an Octagonal main precinct on which most of the cities important buildings stand. Walking down George Street was much like any other University City with modern clothing stores and free period students roaming around. One in particular sporting a garish yellow "I missed fashion week" t-shirt. On closer inspection however, many of the street names still bear Scottish titles and countless buildings were fine examples of Victorian and Edwardian British architecture.
Heading down to Dunedin Railway station on a guide book tip, we found the grand turreted building to be decorated inside with mosaic floor and sparkling porcelain wall tiles donated to New Zealand Rail by Royal Doulton no less. After a few hours wandering around and supping hot chocolate in an internet cafe we drove south to St Kilda beach to camp at the pleasant Dunedin holiday park. After replenishing the chief we set off in the morning for the Otago peninsular stopping off at the steep and sandy surf pounded beach of St Claire before continuing north...
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