From Helicopters, spikes and glacier hikes to hot pools and whales with magnificent tails!


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Oceania » New Zealand » South Island » Franz Josef
December 9th 2006
Published: December 9th 2006
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Day 11 - Franz Josef

We awake the next morning to a beautiful blue sky - perfect conditions for our glacier adventure - today we’re getting into our warmest gear (layers), strapping on some crampons (that’s where the spikes come into it!) and taking a scenic helicopter flight in the mountains before landing on the otherwise inaccessible upper reaches of Franz Josef glacier for our 2 hour glacier hike. Franz Josef is one of only 3 glaciers of it’s kind in the world (thermal glacier, at relatively low altitude and so close to coast) the other being Fox (right next door to FJ) and one in Chile somewhere. Our chopper pilot is from Cuper in Fife and treats us to stunning views and a few heart stopping moments as her heads straight for the mountain before veering up and then swiftly down the other side into the valleys - a bit like a rollercoaster, scary but amazing, especially as we’re lucky (!) enough to be in the front seat for a perfect view.

We land on a flattened out bit of ice marked with boulders - helipad glacier style - before setting off with our guide on an amazing hike in the beautiful and totally otherworldly landscape. We tackled rugged ice terrain, climbed through crevices and amazing blue ice caves and over glacial pools. We feel really lucky to have this opportunity and get a real sense of the scale of this glacier - although we still can’t believe it’s really a very slow moving river - awesome! This was definitely one of the highlights (one of many!) so far but frustratingly for us the photos don’t seem to do it justice (just hope the selection we’ve posted out of the 250 - odd taken gives you a taster!). No way to top that experience but we relax and mull it over in the spa at the campsite which we had booked for our return from the Glacier - bliss!

Day 12 - Franz Josef - Hamner Springs (403km)

Today we set off east again from FJ to Hamner thermal springs on an epic 403km journey which for the most part is pretty uneventful, it’s a long winding road and the weathers pretty poor so views are a bit sedate (compared to what we’ve had so far!) The biggest event on the journey was negotiating our way through a massive herd of cattle on the road - the farmer was merrily waving us forward but there were cows everywhere that didn’t seem to keen to move for us. One of the bulls stopped dead in front of us and looked us in the eye with a rather menacing ‘come and have a go’ kind of look on his face!!! However we eventually arrive at Hamner and it’s a real treat to be able to unwind in the thermal pools surrounded by beautiful alpine scenery for a few hours (although the sulphur mineral pools were a bit pongy but we persevered because apparently it’s good for us!)

Day 13 - Hamner Springs - Blenhiem (288km)

Primary destination today is Kaikora where the main tourist attractions are the resident Giant Sperm Whales. Thanks to the continental shelf formation just offshore (where the depth plummets from 90m to around 900m) these (and other mammals) thrive in the nutrient rich deep waters. We get booked in for the 12.15pm tour and dig out the last of the seasick tablets for a few hours on the high (and slightly rough) seas. Unlike our whale watching in Oz (where the humpbacks cruise beside the boat showing off) it’s more a case of trying to second guess where the whales are going to appear after they return to the surface having dived to feed. This involves a bit of patience but we are lucky enough to get 4 separate sightings of the whales on the surface (and their impressive tails as they dive) before we head back to port. After a quick stop at an internet café to post blog number 2 (hope you enjoyed it ) we round off our day of mammal spotting with a stop to watch a seal colony basking on the rocks at Ohau Point before heading to Blenheim for the night.



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9th December 2006

ICED GEMS
Just when we think the pictures and adventures can't get any better, then they do!!! Two bravehearts - quite stunning and awesome adventure you are on. You can't imagine the scale of things until you zoom in on the specks in the distance and realise its people! (Is that guy in his shorts???) Why aren't you in your kilt, Fraser of the Antartic? Can't wait to see you and hear more - bring back some of that ice and we'll have cocktails!!Continue to take good care of each other. Much love Mum and Dad xxx
9th December 2006

wow
The glacier hike looks amazing! Nice prep for your homecoming ;) Seems like NZ is as beautiful as everyone says. Safe journey home. xx
10th December 2006

All that in only three days??
What can I say??!! Surely this must count as THE most awesome three days in your lives. Stop worrying about your photos not doing things justice-we get the scale of the glacier and more. How many people out there reading these journals have signed up for their holiday of a lifetime do you think? You just pull us all into things with you and that is great-just keep looking over your shoulder. Remember we gate-crashed Christopher and Beth's honeymoon. Really wish we could have been part of just a little part of your amazing trip but we have had the next best thing-your accounts and brilliant pics. Awesome!! Wishing you both happy days in the coming week in NZ as you round off your fandabadozy adventure. All my love, Mumxxx

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