Trains and Ice


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Oceania » New Zealand » South Island » Fox Glacier
March 18th 2012
Published: March 18th 2012
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Hello folks!

Our adventure continues. This past week has been marked by two wonderful experiences. We took the TranzAlpine train from Greymouth on the west coast to Christchurch on the east coast over the Southern Alps through Arthur's pass, following along the various glacial rivers situated in broad valleys with large herds of sheep and cattle grazing - staying over night in Christchurch and then returning the next day. This provided us with the opportunity to see a part of NZ that we would otherwise not have seen. At this time of year, the water level in the rivers is quite low, revealing expanses of gravel on either side that indicated just how wide the rivers would be during the spring runoff. Although only in Christchurch for one night, we stayed in the Y on the edge of the red zone (the extensive and frequently modified area of downtown Christchurch still not open to the public following the earthquakes and multitude of aftershocks) we did manage to walk through the large downtown Hagley Park - which is filled with magnificant trees, shrubbery, flowering plants, grasses and sedges. We will return to Christchurch in a couple of weeks as we make our way up the east coast of the South Island (SI).

While there are two well-known large glaciers on the west coast, we chose to spend time on Fox glacier since it was less travelled than Franz Josef. The Heli-Hike option was strongly recommended by many travellers that we met - and we now agree whole heartedly!! We took a small helicopter up onto the glacier and then accompanied by two guides, our group of 10 experienced 2.5 hours of walking on the glacier and crawling into caves carved into the ice by melt water. This glacier is 17 km long and 0.5 km wide and in places is about 140 m deep; and while it does grow and shrink, overall it is getting smaller over the decades. When you are actually on the glacier, it is surprisingly uneven terrain - spikes, gullies, crevices, and caves. For safety reasons we had to follow our guides in single file wearing crampons on the leather boots provided by the company. The photos will give you some insight into our experience.

In glancing at the local newspapers, we are struck by 'same shit - different country' - from downloading to parking fees, and the national and local govrnments managing their debts through cutting services, downsizing the public service and privatizing.

We continue to meet amazing people - the other day we had the good fortune to chat with a young Irish woman who has been cycling on her own for 16 months - so far she has been in 16 countries (Tibet and other countries in southeast Asia) and after NZ will head to South America and then Africa before heading home to Ireland.


Additional photos below
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18th March 2012

WOW!
Hi D&P...this all looks and sounds so amazing....thanks so much for sharing...also enjoyed the pictures of the critters you have seen....better luck next time with the chicken! Love always Nancy
19th March 2012

Great photos!
23rd March 2012

Happy Happy Birthday traveling brother!
Just wanted to wish you a happy birthday Dick..now it is a day late here but wanted you to know I thought about it lots yesterday just did not get fingers to computer to do so! This will be a great birthday to remember years to come as you think about this trip. You are in ice and snow but for the first time I can remember we have the snow off the septic bed before the end of March! A real achievement this year! Enjoy and look forward to your next post. You younger sister but not the youngest! ME
26th March 2012

Happy Birthday
Hi Mary - thx for the birthday greetings, but you are not a day late, in fact by our calendar you are 3 days early. Glad to hear the snow is off your septic bed. Tonight we will wear our long johns to bed and toques as fall is upon us in the South Island. Love, Dick
25th March 2012

Wow- love your pictures and travel descriptions!!!!!!!
Pauline and Dick We love your blog and pictures.Your description of the glacier reminds Bruce and I of our trip a few years ago out to Alberta and Athabasca Glacier that we spent time hiking on with a group.Beautiful photos!!! Colleen and Bruce
25th March 2012

Trains and Ice
Especially loved this entry. The pictures are stunning even on a small scale on the computer. Also got a good chuckle over your "same shit different country".
27th March 2012

well I wanted to be the first
yeah the moment I sent the email I realized it was the 29th not 22nd..getting you and nancy mixed up!!!!!!!!!

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