Abel Tasman Coastal Walk

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Day 1 & 2: MARAHAU TO ANCHORAGE HUT 12.4km - So the day we've all be looking forward to (or not) has arrived and we're all up early making final preparations to our gear and packing up the cars which we'll leave at the backpackers. It's amazing how difficult the decision about the number tee-shirts required, how much food will we eat and do we really need the duct tape is when you've never done anything like this before. We had a bit of leeway as we had the luxury of being able to put some bags on the aqua-taxi which most of us took avantage of to some degree. By 10am we were all packed up and leaving Marahau on the first of three legs of the Abel Tasman Coastal Walkway.

The walk took us up into the rainforest up cliffs into forest and then down to the most stunning golden beaches surrounded by the clearest water you can imagine. The weather had stayed kind too which makes everything look even better. We stopped to enjoy our lunch and have a swim at Stillwell Bay which was a very popular spot for local boaties - there was at least 12 boats anchored up. Another spot to return to... About three and a half hours after leaving Marahau we started our decent into Anchorage Bay - and boy what a decent that was! (Later, we were all glad to hear that we didn't have to traipse back up this hill, thank goodness!!!).

The Anchorage Hut, our humble abode for the next two nights was just fantastic - albeit with no power, cooking facilities, hot shower or single beds for that matter. But the location was simply stunning. About 30 feet to the white sand beach, sitting in the shade of the trees which were home to heaps of native birds, including two Kereru. We spent the rest of the day resting our weary bones and preparing for our first night in the "bush". I think we were all coping remarkably well. The kids were all fantastic and were really enjoying themselves too.

Early the next morning we went down to the beach with a cuppa and sat taking in the glorious view of the bay. It was just as we had always dreamed the Abel Tasman to be . Golden sands lapped by the crystal clear aqua coloured water dotted with yachts - absolutely idyllic! It was lovely having the rest of the day to sit around talking, eating, interrupted by the short walk along the beach or over the hill to yet another beautiful bay for a swim.

Day 3 - ANCHORAGE TO BARK BAY HUT 8.7km

Today's walk started with a walk along the beach and over a small ridge to the Torrent Bay Estuary which we had timed perfectly to cross at low tide saving an hour on our walking time. Torrent Bay itself is a little village of holiday homes accessible only by foot or water. Some were basic kiwi baches, others compete with the best homes in NZ - but what a great spot! Another note made to return here some day.... Apparently families book from year to year at Xmas time, but out of the high season you can rent some via the internet.

The track climbed up a pretty long hill before dropping down to the Falls river which is straddled by a 47 metre long swing bridge - very cool! It wasn't long before we reached our next hut at Bark Bay - set across the tidal estuary from the beach, and in by far the most beautiful of all the bays. This hut seemed to be newer than the last, and was built in the Lockwood style (still no power etc but a very cute outdoor shower set in the bush).

We didn't waste time before heading over the beautiful golden beach. None of us could believe such a perfectly idyllic place could exist in good ole NZ. And it seemed like we had it all to ourselves! A few wines were consumed this afternoon - my God that water is soooo cold!

The firepit set in the bush behind the hut was a real hit and a great place to dispose of some of our accumulated rubbish - probably a bit naughty but it was the hut warden after all that pointed us in the direction of the firepit...


Day 4: BARK BAY TO AWAROA 11.5 km

One of the kids in our group had been unfortunate enough to be stung by a bee on her foot last night & had suffered an allergic reaction and as a result she was in no fit state to walk the next leg. The hut ranger was kind enough to radio thru to the water taxi and organise a pickup and transfer to Awaroa. We also thought that Ashleigh wasn't going to cope too well with today's walk either so we considered this to be a good option for her too. Claire was super quick to put her hand up to "act as chaperone". The rest of us headed off again - the packs were lighter and our legs & feet had started to get used to the tramping thank goodness.

We crossed the Bark Bay inlet at dead low tide and climbed up and over the hill to the long white sands of Onetahuti Beach. We stopped at the Northern end for a regroup and something to eat as this was the approx half way point. Up and over the Tonga Saddle and approx 3.5 hrs after leaving Bark Bay we arrived at the very expensive Awaroa Lodge where Claire, Ashleigh & Libby were waiting for us.

Awaroa Lodge is a 4 star hotel set in the midst of the National Park offering visitors who don't wish to slum it an opportunity to enjoy the beautiful scenery that is the Abel Tasman National Park. I think it has seen better days and is incredibly overpriced for what it offers, but we were all thankful to sit on their deck and enjoy a beer and real coffee for the first time in what seemed like an age! What "townies" we are! It's only been three days for heavens sake!!

Another 20 minute walk along the beach and around the estuary to the Awaroa Doc hut set elevated above the tidal estuary. The weather was starting to change and it wasn't long before heavy rain started to come down and we were all thankful we'd managed to stay dry. Other trampers weren't so lucky and we ended up with a few "refugees" from the adjacent camp site sleeping on the floor of our dining area. Our last night and I think we were all looking forward to a hot shower and "real" food the next day.

Day 5: AWAROA TO TOTARANUI AND WATER TAXI BACK TO MARAHAU

The rain started to ease the next morning thank goodness. We had to hang around and wait for the tide to go out as the track crosses the Awaroa inlet and it is only passable at dead low tide. We still had wade thru water up to our thighs at times for a good kilometre and I was pleased to be wearing some water shoes as there were sharp shells underfoot. Totaranui is only an hour and a half walk away but the pressure was on to make it in time to meet up with the water taxi. The bush looked absolutely beautiful after all the rain the previous night and in some respects we were sorry this leg was so short.

As arranged the water taxi was there waiting off the beach and way too quickly were were all aboard and heading back to where we started five days earlier. The trip wasn't too rough and we were shown the Tonga Island marine reserve and spotted some seals basking on the rocks on the way back. The best part was the boat being driven straight onto the waiting trailer and towed up to the carpark onshore at Marahau without us getting our feet wet! Very nifty!!

We all did our seriously quick farewells (did it really happen that way?) and after a borrowed shower the camp facilities we were heading back north & home via an overnighter in Picton.

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