New Zealand 6 - North Island

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New Zealand – Wk Six - North Island.



Sunday 12^th February.



Today we leave the South and head to the North Island courtesy of the Inter Island Ferry at 13.30. Before we do we have time for one last look around Picton and its harbour. Picton is quite a nice little town with a long main street and a very well laid out leisure area running the length of the quay side. Part of this area contains the hull of the New Zealand Scow ‘Echo’. She is now a rather splendid coffee house with an interior hung with all sorts of memorabilia of her and other Scows days under sail. The NZ Scow is very similar to our Thames Barge in size and hull shape and plied there trade up and down the coasts of both Islands carrying a variety of cargo.



We made it aboard the ferry in plenty of time and watched the local sailing club out in their Optimists and other dinghies from the top deck in the sunshine. Eventually we were underway and making our way down the impressive Queen Charlotte Sound and out into the Cook Straight past the Brothers rocks. Luckily for us and others aboard the Straights were like a mill pond. It was a pretty uneventful passage apart from the crew running a fire and MOB drill and half way across we happened to glance out of our window and there below was a school of Hector Dolphins swimming in and out of the ships wash.



We entered Wellington Harbour about 16.30 and passed on our way to the berth a number of yachts out for a Sunday afternoon sail. As we approached, the City looked very different from other towns we have seen in NZ as it had high rise buildings. Once of the ferry we headed out of town to a place in the suburbs called Lower Hut or Hut City as the locals call it. Here we had booked a cabin at the local Top 10 site. We settled in, had some supper the drove along the harbour road opposite the city for a look round and take some pics of the sunset.



It was a really nice area and atmosphere with people fishing from the roads edge, kids swimming and families out walking. Looking at the quality of houses it was clearly quite an affluent area also and easy to get to by road or ferry from Wellington.



As it was Sunday again it was Skype night with the family.



Monday 13^th Feb.



Up and away in good time this morning as i had arranged to take the car to Apex Rentals in Wellington to have a rear tyre changed that was worn. We travelled in on the freeway and found the depot easily in the centre of the city and left the car there while we had a coffee at a nearby cafe. On our return half an hour later we found the car ready for collection with two new rear tyres fitted. Anyone in the future renting a car in NZ i definitely recommend Apex, great customer service and all with a smile.



We parked for the remainder of the day on Wellington water front and walked over to NZs National Museum ‘Te Papa’ where we spent an absorbing three hours looking around. The Museum is built on a unique bicultural partnership, which recognises and celebrates Maori as tangata whenua – the original people of this land. After this visit we walked the water front and found the Maritime Museum and spent another hour looking around. In here was some great models one of which was the Square rigger ‘Pamir’ as featured in Eric Newby’s book The Last Grain Race.



After a bit of searching we found the Wellington Cable Car and rode up to the Botanical gardens. This was a beautiful area and acted as the lungs of the city. We strolled down making our way through the many separate gardens arriving at the bottom at the Begonia House which was stunning. Hopefully the photo’s do the plants justice, that was until the camera battery failed.



It was now late afternoon and we still had to find a camp site out of the city so after a quick bite to eat we hit the road and headed north on the route 2 passing Lower, Upper Hut and Featherstone eventually stopping at Greytown where we pitched the tent on the towns own camp site.



Sue was feeling the effects of a long day so retired early only to be woken after an hour by me to come and look at our first live Possum sitting in the tree overhanging the tent. Our other Possum sightings have been as road kill or knitted garments in shop windows.



Tuesday 14^th Feb – Valentine’s Day



I was woken this morning by our Possum barking and a bird that we have nicknamed Squeaky Gate because of its dawn chorus. It was also raining. A quick shower and breakfast and a chat with another couple of NZ campers who told me they have visited the Butt and Oyster for lunch when travelling the UK and it was time to leave. Our destination today was Hastings, 320 kl north on the east coast. Barley ten minutes up the road Sue spied a sign to a Paua Factory so we stopped. Paua is a shell, highly valuable when polished into jewellery ect.



This stop did solve the problem of a Valentines gift and Sue came out wearing a new very expensive necklace so all was good with the world. We passed through some attractive small towns on route most adorned with hanging baskets and flower borders everywhere.







Just before we took a lunch stop at the small town of Woodville taking in a local gallery and cake shop we passed the 5000 kl mark on our NZ tour.



We cracked on and arrived in Hastings at 16.00 booking in to the local Top 10 site and as the forecast was for rain and lots of it we decided on a basic cabin for the night.



The evening was spent blogging, playing Drafts and watching the Frozen Planet on TV. All respect to the male Emperor Penguin.



Wednesday 15^th February



Another grey damp morning greeted us, the NZ summer continues! We drive out of Hastings and visit Ocean Beach for a short morning walk. Ocean Beach is as its name, a long length of beach next to the Ocean, this morning though a little bleak but it didn’t stop the Surfers making an appearance for our entertainment.



With the onset of more rain we made our way back through Hastings and along the coast to Napier, the Art Deco Capital of NZ. The art deco comes from the total rebuild of the area during the 30s following a devastating earthquake. As we walked around the town we were passed by a procession of classic cars of the 30s and people dressed for the period also. We later learnt that this weekend is an annual gathering of people celebrating this era. The promenade is very English with beautiful Gardens, crazy golf and tea rooms.



Having finished our visit we took the coast road out passing through the Dock yard which was brim full of timber ready for export. We picked up highway 2 again and ran along the edge of Hawke Bay for a few kilometres before diving inland and travelling through the Maungaharuru Range, rolling hills with grass and occasional pine forest. We passed the communities of Wairoa, Tutira, Putorino and Raupunga before arriving in the town of Wairoa.



We found the only camp site in the area and what a gem it was, small, friendly, and so tidy and neat. The owners have put an enormous amount of effort and pride into the site. We pitch the tent under the cover of a large fir tree to give us some shelter from the rain that is forecast then chill out with the books and a brew. Supper was prepared in a very homely kitchen / dining room whilst watching the local news and the remainder of the evening spent chatting, blogging and TV.



Thursday 16^th Feb



Guess what, more rain this morning even under the branches of our tree. Decided to move on and so packed up in between the showers the best we could. On the way out of town we called in to the race course to see if it was worth hanging around and placing a few bets. The night before Sue was given some good tips from an inside source!. There didn’t seem to be much going on, still setting up so we pushed on and headed north on the route 35, coast road, our destination Hicks Bay or Te Ararat via the town of Gibson. It was only approx 130 kill but the road was once again winding and hilly. Quite nice scenery though taking us through forest and many Maori reserves featuring ornate carvings over doorways and gates.



I was glad though to finish the day’s drive as you are constantly aware of the 50 ton logging trucks that appear at speed on most blind corners, they give way to no one.



Eventually settled on a site nr Hicks Bay, not the best place as it was not to clean in the camp kitchen and facility blocks but we made the best of it. We enjoyed an evening stroll down to the Bay and were entertained by a dozen or so horses ambling along the beach making their way back to their paddock. Also managed to take some pics of my latest beard which can be seen somewhere in the blog.



Turned in early as there were no facilities for chilling out and the mosquitos were out in force.



Friday 17^th Feb



Woken this morning at 06.15 by some guy walking around the camp site swearing and kicking things, luckily not our tent though. Managed to get another hours kip before we surfaced and packed up. Really didn’t want to stay any longer. I thought it would be good to visit East Cape which lays claim to fame by having the most easterly lighthouse in the world. Unfortunately i didn’t realise that it lay 20 kl along a very rough unmade road in the opposite direction that we intended to go that day so we aborted and headed off towards the town of Opotiki instead. Today’s drive was very similar to yesterday except the route now took us along the edge of the enormous Bay of Plenty. Again we passed many sites of Maori interest and their communities. Lunch was taken beside a pretty wooden church right on the water’s edge. We had a look around and noticed a polite sign warning visitors to watch out for the nesting Penguins underneath the font! and apologising for the fishy smell. We kept an eye out but didn’t see any signs of them or the smell.



The shore line has started to change along the Bay and has become very volcanic in appearance.



It was along here we spotted Whakaari / White Island, an actual active Volcano with smoke / steam pouring out of its crater. It’s been in this state for many years so we should be ok.



Camp today was at Waiotahi Beach just west of Opotiki. This time a nice place with fairly good facilities and free internet. We spent the remainder of the afternoon on the beach sharing it with enormous amounts of driftwood that has washed down from along the coast where the logging is taking place. I reckon a few containers of this shipped back to the UK and sold to garden centres ect i would be a rich man. Spent the evening chatting to a couple from a sheep farm below Napier comparing each other’s likes and dislikes of the world today. Interesting to hear the scathing comments regards the Maiori and how lazy they are, not working, making babies and living on government handouts. Sound familier! It not just the UK Government that’s soft then.



The evening finished with a brief chat to friends on Skype and as we turned in for the night it started to rain. Oh and tonight we have the loan from the camp owner of an electric light to read by, oh what a luxury a night of not balancing the camp lantern on my chest to read by.



Saturday 18 Feb



The rain has stopped and the sun is out nicely drying off the tent ect. By the time we had breakfast it was 20 deg and very hot so we decided to stay put for the day. Our camp host kindly offered us the use of two Kayaks and the loan of a fishing rod which we accepted on both counts and the entire day was spent paddling in the surf, soaking up the sun and fishing. The latter was not successful as it was like fishing in a tumbling washing machine as the surf was so rough.



Late afternoon we were both pretty beaten up so retreated for a shower and a brew. Sue as I write this has departed for the tent for a late afternoon snooze and I’m prepping the blog ready for publishing later as we still have free internet.



That all for this week, tomorrow we shall push on further North perhaps making it up to the Coromandel Peninsula where we would like to spend a few days.



By for now,



J

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Comments

[Mike Hughes]

Yes Jon we like the new beard!!! Those horses looked good and especially the one with the little foal. Were they from near the racecourse? Its just started to rain here this Saturday afternoon and its forecast for wall to wall sunshine tomorrow. Hope so cos I\'m flying. And I\'m taking Ali with me as well so it had better be good. There are some long distances you are doing. Is Sue doing some driving as well? I hope so. Yes we like your flower pictures but the sunsets and beach shots are really good. So, how is the food generally? Can you get a good curry? Thats most important. We are going for one tonight so I pity Ali and the pilot tomorrow eh?!!! Have a safe trip you two, Cheers now. Mike.