Raglan's Waves and Beach Babes

New Zealand is a place of dramatic geographical contrasts. From the barren volcanic craters of Lake Taupo's Tongariro Crossing to my present location, Raglan on the Tasman Sea, it is amazing that these two vastly different landscapes are nothing but a few hours drive from each other. In Raglan the rolling hills filled with hundreds of sheep give way to the turquoise water of the sea and the occasional cliff drops off to the long wide black sand beaches that are nearly empty, save for the few brave surfers that ride Raglan's famous waves.

It is a small town, even by New Zealand standards, with only 15,000 residents in the peak summer season. The 1966 movie, The Endless Summer, was filmed here and the waves off the nearby Manu Bay are world renowned and host a few surfing competitions each year. Many backpackers come here expecting to stay just a few days and some, like a few that I've met wound up staying a few months. The atmosphere is much like Martha's Vineyard, and that is probably why I'm enjoying my stay here so much. But choosing Raglan over the countless other destinations was a difficult decision as every traveler you meet has their own recommendations and condemnations. For someone who has only been here a short time it is tough to sort out where to head next.

Crucial to every travel experience is the hostel, or 'backpackers' in Kiwi-speak. The backpackers I chose was highly rated by the guidebook but the description given by Let's Go hardly did it justice as this hostel, Raglan Backpackers, is a traveler paradise. Situated on an inlet of the Raglan Harbor the backpackers organizes surfing lessons, horseback rides and has free kayaks and bikes to use. It's set up with a courtyard where multilingual conversation spills out into the grassy area filled with flowers and hammocks where many people fill the day reading a book in the sun. It is by far the best hostel I've ever stayed in on any of my travels.

Since surfing is the name of the game here in Raglan I figured I'd better give it a try. My first day here I took a surfing lesson and even managed to get up...albeit for a few seconds. It didn't change my life though like one of the instructors claimed, but it is a lot of fun. Also taking a surfing lesson was one of only two Southerners I've encountered on my travels, Brooks is from Alabama and attended Auburn (he didn't happen to catch the GA/Auburn game....GOOOOO DAWGS) but I should have known where he was from without asking as he was sporting Chacos sandals and croakies! Why doesn't anyone else from home travel? Please somebody else take off and see the world so that every American I meet won't be from either New York or California.

The crowd at this hostel is so welcoming and I've already extended my stay to four nights because it has such a great feel. Last night a large group of us experienced the wonder of Tim Tam cookies. A New Zealand specialty these cookies are used to suck up hot tea and then as the tea melts the chocolate surrounding the cookie you shove it all into your mouth before it disintegrates. The whole process is lots of fun, especially when there are seven of us gathered around a kitchen table and almost nobody has tried it before. The plan is to have another Tim Tam party tonight. Went surfing in the rain this morning and had more success than my first go on the board.

Depending on availability I might stay here through Christmas and enjoy a beach Christmas in a distinct contrast to the American version. This hostel even has a Christmas tree which is part of the appeal. Not sure when I'll head down to the South Island but I'm in no hurry as the North has plenty to see on its own despite what the guidebooks might claim. In case I don't update before the 25th, Merry Christmas everyone and if you need to forward some presents to me just remember that we're 18 hours ahead of East Coast time so you'll need to make sure to send them out a whole day early...don't forget!

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