Cape Reinga


Advertisement
New Zealand's flag
Oceania » New Zealand » North Island » Northland » Cape Reinga
October 31st 2007
Published: October 31st 2007
Edit Blog Post

Unfortunately, it was 08h10 when I surfaced this morning. Despite having an early night (22h30), I’d slept solidly and was awoken by the children arriving at the adjacent school. The sun was already in climbing in the clear sky and the omen for a good weather day was good.

Breakfast was a hurried affair; toast, Alison Holst’s muesli (I don’t think she noticed it was missing), fresh coffee and orange juice and, once the washing up was done, it was a case of ensuring the van was unplugged from the mains, the LPG was off, all the inner doors secured and the fridge set to battery. That done, it was time to head north; all ready by 09h03 - not bad really.


Missed Opportunities

Heading towards the far north of New Zealand shouldn’t be too difficult a drive. There’s a narrow peninsula of approximately 100km with the main road (SH1) running up the middle and the option to return via the beach. What could be so difficult? Oddly enough, the lack of roads was to prove difficult. I’d wanted to stop at Rarawa Beach, where the sparkling white sand is reputedly the best in New Zealand. But, as there
Main Road into NorthMain Road into NorthMain Road into North

The gravel road is State Highway 1 - running the length of North Island
were only 3 or 4 roads exiting on the right hand side in the entire 100km stretch, it’s easy to see why you can miss your turning.

Having missed the beach, I was determined not to miss my next stop; Parengarenga Harbour. This beautiful, isolated, location has been identified as the spot where the French Secret Service brought ashore the mines that destroyed the Rainbow Warrior in Auckland Harbour. So, there I was, driving up the centre of the peninsula, having driven some 80 km and had not seen a single vehicle (in either direction) when I missed it! I’d unexpectedly arrived at Waitaki Landing. Not only had I missed my first stop, I’d also missed my second! I was amused, however, to see a sign informing me that this was my last opportunity for fuel before arriving in Australia!

Continuing north, the road suddenly became a gravel track. Now, this is the main road; the road that runs the length of New Zealand, down to Wellington; the equivalent of the UK’s M1 - and here we are, on a gravel track!


Te Paki

Keeping an eye out, I was determined not to miss the third stop. It was not possible to miss the fourth stop without running out of road, but the third was a little different. And there it was, on the left! Admiring the view wasn’t possible from the rear window due to the vast amount of dust being thrown up, but the views from the front were unbelievable. Finally, I could go no further and arrived at Te Paki, where giant sand dunes meet the forest. I’ve seen sand dunes in the Middle East but these were enormous - I’ve never seen any so huge.

Walking across the river, I started up the first dune and found myself on a plateau, a small lake nestling in its centre. Above me, towered massive dunes reaching maybe 100 feet or more upwards. It was unbelievable, both the view and the fact that I’d even consider climbing them. But I did. And got half way. And came down again! Considering it’s only spring, it was so hot on the dunes that my supply of water was not lasting very long and that, coupled with the fact that it was three steps up and two down, forced me to admit defeat.


Cape Reinga

Returning to
Cape Reinga and the Three KingsCape Reinga and the Three KingsCape Reinga and the Three Kings

The Islands are 35 miles off the coast!
the van, I rested with more water before returning to the main track and my next stop - Cape Reinga (population zero). Most of the journey north has been with tantalising glimpses of the sea (on either side) but mainly with rolling hills dotted with sheep and cattle. Actually, I think it was mainly sheep and cattle dotted with rolling hills. But as I got nearer the cape, the sea crept closer on each side. Finally, the road climbed steeply and on reaching the summit, I was greeted by the most spectacular panorama possible. With the air being so unpolluted and summer not yet started, there was a 270 degree vista of clear blue sea, clear blue sky and white surf.

Whilst not the most northern point in New Zealand, the Cape is revered by the Maori as the final departing point for the spirits of the dead. The twisted vegetation is said to represent where the spirits have desperately tried to hang on to this world. Looking out to sea, one can see the boiling water which may have initiated this belief. This is where the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean meet.

Standing on the Cape
The Pohutukawa TreeThe Pohutukawa TreeThe Pohutukawa Tree

You can just make out the trees at the end - significant in Maori culture
on such a clear day, it was possible to see the Three Kings Islands, 35 miles offshore. These were named by Abel Tasman, who first saw them on the eve of Epiphany, 1643. Closer in, the bay leading to Cape Maria van Diemen was totally deserted save for the white rollers breaking on the sand. Certainly a very treacherous shoreline!

My trip to Cape Reinga could not have been better timed. The weather was perfect (though hot), visitors were few and the silence deafening. This was broken by the arrival of a fleet of tour buses giving their cargo a fifteen minute look at the cape before hurtling them down the sand of Ninety Mile Beach. I hastily retreated to the van, made a cup of tea and sat in the comfort of a settee whilst admiring the view towards the cape. I noticed that the guidebook did state the rather obvious; “this is the turning point for those travelling the far north” - unless you have webbed feet, I presume.


Henderson Bay

My guidebook describes Henderson Bay as having “a single rubbish bin and nothing else”. Nothing else, that is, except superb surf, a spotless beach and
Henderson BayHenderson BayHenderson Bay

Surfer's paradise ...
no people. Whilst this is a surfer’s beach, the waves were not all that high (by surfing standards) so I was able to roam completely undisturbed for several hours, feeling like Joseph Banks surveying the pristine coastline for the first time, before settling down in the sun for a little snack from the fridge (that’s me, not Banks!). Oh how difficult travelling can be at times.


Ahipara

Meaning “sacred fire”, Ahipara was the home of the gum digger, the gum being carted to the beach at Shipwreck Bay. It’s sited at the bottom of Ninety Mile Beach and is good for surfing, walking in the dunes and gum fields. It’s not good for restaurants or fuel.

Distance travelled: 220km / 137 miles



Additional photos below
Photos: 10, Displayed: 10


Advertisement

Henderson BayHenderson Bay
Henderson Bay

Certainly can't find anything wrong with the sand!
Henderson BayHenderson Bay
Henderson Bay

Still not enough surf for taking to the water ...
Henderson BayHenderson Bay
Henderson Bay

Possibly the same view as that afforded to Joseph Banks ...
ApiharaApihara
Apihara

This is at the southern end of Ninety Mile Beach. Notice the line of cloud indicating the peninsula jutting out into the Pacific Ocean. It is cloud that very often indicates the presence of an island to sailors.


Tot: 0.239s; Tpl: 0.012s; cc: 22; qc: 92; dbt: 0.1613s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1; ; mem: 1.3mb