RANGIROA

Rangiroa - Day 5

Today we visit the coral atoll of Rangiroa in the Tuamotu Archipelago. Next to Kwajalein in the Marshall Islands this is the second larges atoll in the world. The lagoon could comfortably contain the whole island of Tahiti. An atoll is a high island that over time has eroded and subsided to all that is left is a ring of coral reefs surrounding the point where the volcanic mountain once rose above the surface. We will be entering through Tiputa Pass one of the largest of more than 100 small channels (Hoa) that separate more than 240 coral motus. The sea is dark blue and there are clouds in the distance indicating our destination is near. Rangiroa is so large that it has it’s own horizon. You cannot see the islands across the lagoon at all.
We enter the pass that is quite narrow and filled with obvious currents. The oceans swells crash on shore. We safely make our way into the lagoon. We can see small villages to our port and starboard. The anchor drops and the tenders are lowered to take us ashore.
I can’t accurately describe the color of the water. It is an aqua so intense that it makes my aqua cover-up seem faded. The tallest thing on the islands is the coconut tree and the church steeple. In the old days, when a hurricane was coming the locals stripped the coconut palms of their lower fronds and the coconuts. When the storm hit they would climb the trees to escape the storm surge. The tree could not be too young of too old because they would be uprooted by the wind. Only middle-aged trees would survive and those locals who chose well.
We tender ashore and board our snorkel boat. About five minutes later we are in the aquarium. Joe spots a huge green moray but it hides before I can get there. The coral is healthy and varied except where the anchor lines have damaged it over time. The guides feed the fish, another reef no-no, and large schools of the aggressive species gather around. They are so close that I think I can reach out and touch one but they will have none of that. As we leave the guide and the majority of snorkelers the reef life gets back to normal. Varied surgeonfish, parrots, wrasse and butterfly fish go about their business, feeding! Angelfish, Moorish idols, squirrelfish and grouper swim by. Large iridescent blue clams and orange and yellow worms open and close as our shadow passes. Then it was back in the boat and to the ship for lunch and a change of clothing.
I had reserved a car for the afternoon but when we came ashore again the cars were gone. Our plan was to explore a bit and then find a beach where we could read and snorkel from the shore. We actually started to walk down the road but it was mid-day hot and humid. Decided to return to the ship, happened to mention my disappointment to a vendor, he directed me to a man who had my car reservation. I paid him and he took us to what was obviously his personal vehicle. No license, no paperwork required, he handed over the keys and off we went. We had not driven far when a tune began to play and we discovered his cell phone on the dash.
We drove about a half hour and ended up back where we started so we handed over the cell phone and drove off again. The side roads we took ended at private property or a business so we drove around the island a couple more times, past the airport and the college and the one luxury hotel and then there we were back where we started. It was time to return the car and hurry to the pool on board for a refreshing dip.

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