Can someone, please, kill all the roosters?


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Oceania » Cook Islands » Rarotonga
September 26th 2008
Published: October 7th 2008
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In L.A. things are done in style and the rental company we got the car from had its Head Quarters in the Hilton Hotel in Beverly Hills; even though we felt like a fish out of the water, we wondered how it will be to spend a night in a place like that and we decided to do it some day... guess what... we spent that very same evening, not at the Hilton, but at the Sheraton, courtesy of Air New Zealand: 2 king size beds, huge TV and room service made our last night in L.A. a bit more comfortable...

So, with 7 hours delay, we finally left LA and headed, very excited, to the Cooks...

I'm not sure why but Rarotonga has been a bit disappointing... actually, I DO know why: because I was expecting something different; I thought I learnt to expect NOTHING when I travel, but I'm still doing it, and my head was full of coconut trees growing in white sandy, clear water beaches, car free roads and tropical birds singing during the day; instead I found, true enough, coconut trees growing in white sandy, clear water beaches, covered in sharp coral, tree debris and the odd broken bottle... due to the lack of interest of the locals on the beaches, they don't clean them, even though their back doors are directly on them; the roads are busy with cars and the tropical birds are gone, chased away by a non native bird that doesn't sing, only screams and, instead of singing birds, there are hundreds of roosters and hens that nobody eats and roam free through the island, invading restaurants, supermarkets and huoses alike...

To make it even better, it started raining the 1st night we were there and it didn't stop until 3 days later, but as the locals say "no rain means no rain forrest".

The locals are very peculiar people: always smiling and waving hello on the streets and, other than a very small number of them, nobody seems to worjk and they spend their days sitting under coconut trees thinking of new excuses to avoid work; they are not only found under coconut trees, also on porchs and graves!!, as nearly every garden has a place to bury their family (or, actually, their closest family, as the whole island is related!) to help each other: the living take care of the graves while the dead protect the living and in case the spirits fail, there are hundreds of stray dogs hanging out in the gardens... but in a place like this you don't really need much protection because, being all related and very religious, the crime rate is like 1 every decade and, normally, they blame the fijians who, the locals say, come here to steal their women, jobs and to create trouble... I wonder what the kiwis have to say about this, as the 80% of the Cooks live in NZ...

We spent our days hidding from the rain and, between shower and shower, we cycled our "1st country": it took us about 3 hours to go around the 32 kms of island, pedalling on the only road there is and being very surprised at how gently the Cooks drive; we can only hope it will be the same in every other country we're going to...

Other than drinking and eating in the many cafes and restaurants for tourists (as the locals are only to be found under the trees) there isn't much to do on this island where the relaxation is the main law: rent a mask and fins and snorkel amongst the corals of the lagoon or go trekking through the rain forrest, but we decided to leave it for when we come back after Aitutaki... just in case...


The best: the local kindness
The worse: the rain




Puede alguien,, por favor, matar a todos los gallos?



En L.A. las cosas se hacen con estilo y la companhia con la que alquilamos el coche tenia su sede en el Hotel Hilton de Beverly HIlls; aunque nos sentiamos como pez fuera del agua, nos preguntabamos como seria pasar alli una noche y decidimos hacerlo algun dia... quien nos iba a decir q esa misma noche la pasariamos, no en el Hilton, pero en el Sherato, por cortesia de Air New Zealand: 2 camas dobles, television enorme y servivio de habitaciones hicieron nuestra ultima noche en LA un poco mas comoda.

Asi que, con 7 horas de retraso, por fin dejamos LA rumbo a las Cook

Rarotonga ha sido un poco decepcionante, ya que mi cabeza estaba llena de palmeras creciendo en playas de arena blanca y agua cristalina, carreteras libres de coches y pajaros tropicales cantarines; en lugar de eso me encontre, es verdad, con cocoteros creciendo en playas de arena blanca y aguas cristalinas, pero llenas de corales afilados q te cortan los dedos de los pies, la porqueria de los arboles y alguna q otra botella rota y, como a los locales no les gusta ir a la playa, aunque la puerta de atras de su casa de a la playa, no la limpian; las carreteras estan pobladas de coches y motos y los pajaros tropicales brillan por su ausencia y, en su lugar, hay cientos de gallos y gallinas salvajes y descarados q nadie se come y corretean libres por la isla, metiendose en casas, restaurantes y supermercados por igual...

Para hacerlo peor, empezo a llover la 1a noche y no paro hasta 3 dias despues... pero como dicen los islenhos "sin lluvia no hay selva"

Los islenhos son gente muy peculiar: siempre llevan la sonrisa puesta y, a parte de unos pocos, nadie parece trabajar y se tiran el dia sentados a la sombra de los cocoteros pensando en excusas para no trabajar; y no solo a la sombra de los arboles, sino tambien en porches y tumbas!!, ya que casi cada jardin tiene un espacio reservado para enterrar a la familia (o, mas bien, a la familia cercana, ya q todos en la isla estan relacionados) y para ayudarse mutuamente: los vivos mantienen las tumbas limpias y los muertos protegen a los vivos... si los espiritus fallan, hay cientos de perros abandonados que duermen en los jardines, calro que, en un sitio como este, donde casi todos son familia y muy religiosos, el porcentaje de crimenes es de uno cada decada y, casi siempre, se culpa a los fijianos que, segun dicen los locales, vienen aqui a robarles las mujeres y el trabajo y a causar problemas... habria que preguntarles a los neozelandeses que piensan ya que, el 80% de los islenhos viven en Nueva Zelanda...

Pasamos nuestros dias escondidos de la lluvia y, entre claro y claro, recorrimos nuestro "1er pais" en bici: nos llevo unas 3 horas recorrer los 32 kms de circunferencia de la isla, pedaleando en la unica carretera que hay y sorprendidos de lo despacio que conducen los islenhos; solo espero que sea igual en el resto de paises que tenemos en la lista...

A parte de comer y beber en los cafes y restaurantes dedicados a los turistas (ya q los locales solo se encuentran bajo los arboles) poco hay q hacer en la isla donde reina la tranquilidad: alquilar unas gafas e irte a bucear en la laguna o hacer alguna de las caminatas por la selva, pero decidimos dejarlo para cuando volvamos de Aitutaki... por si acaso...

Lo mejor: la amabilidad local
Lo peor: la lluvia


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9th October 2008

Jajajja
Tia, me encanta como escribes (me imagino que eres tu, Deni), me ha hecho mucha gracia lo de los gallos!!!, por las fotos parece impresionante!!!!, Muchos besos y a pedalear.

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