Reluctantly, we left Kakadu National Park and headed south to visit Edith (Leliyn) Falls. Leliyn is part of Nitmiluk National Park, which has as its key attraction Katherine Gorge. We had booked a campsite in Leliyn for our caravan, to enable us to enjoy an afternoon swim in one of the largest croc-managed plunge pools in the NT. The waterfall that cascades into the plunge pool is a long swim across the dark, foreboding pool, with reedy banks just like we had seen in Kakadu, potentially hiding fearsome saltwater crocodiles. With some hesitance, I ended up swimming across to the waterfall twice, taking the opportunity of a massage under the falls. After an overnight stay at Leliyn, we drove to Mataranka for a two night stay. We had unfinished business at Mataranka, as the renowned Bitter
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