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We arrive at Perth airport in the early hours, and being Yorkshire folk we decide to save the money and hassle of finding and getting to accomodation in the middle of the night by kipping at the airport (Tony is horrified by this when he meets us at Karratha later). We are flying on to Karratha at lunchtime, so it's only a 13 and a half hour wait. This was far more comfortable than it sounds as the airport was practically deserted and I found a very comfortable bed-like sofa where I slept for about eight hours like a baby. Brendan slept for about half an hour and complained like a baby for the other seven and and half.
The flight to Karratha 1,000 miles north of Perth interestingly flew via Port Hedland which is 200ks further north. We were met by Tony who had driven the 120 miles from Pannawonica to meet us in his very nice shiny black Toyota Hilux. We have a quick tour of Karratha for my benefit as I had previously lived here for just under a year. It is a really strange feeling as we pull up outside the radio station where I worked,
Nic asleep at Perth airport.
After an hour or so she dug out her sleeping bag and made herself even more comfortable.which is next to the Tavern, from where the station manager used to buy the staff trays of drinks for 'after hours' each Friday. The main difference to me is that everywhere is un-naturally green. Tony tells us that this is due to the record number of cyclones this year that have brought heavy rain with them, and that there has been some serious flooding.
The sun is starting to go down as we leave Karratha for Pannawonica which makes the drive slighly hairy as kangaroos, owls and millions of moths all try to aquaint themselves with the front of the car. We unfortunately hit one of the owls, which for no apparent reason decides to change direction and fly directly into the windscreen, but Tony skilfully avoids others despite their seemingly kamakazi antics of either flying at us, or sitting unflinchingly ´chicken-run´ style in the middle of the road as we hurtle towards them at 140ks/hour.
Pannawonica is a iron ore mining town and is a 'company town' that was built in the 70s and is owned by Robe River Iron Associates. Tony works at the mine and Janie at the bar of the Sports Club of
which she is secretary and Tony is president (and Mayor of the town). The town has a really nice feel and is unique in that there is absolutely no crime. There are about 600 inhabitants and 2 police. Everyone leaves their houses and cars unlocked (T&J even left theirs unlocked while they came to England for our wedding!) We ask why people were so trustworthy, and apart from it being 'just how they are', it could be down to the fact that 99% of the people work for the mine, everyone gets paid well and most people know one another. We immediately notice how friendly everyone is too, as we are made to feel very welcome. This is something that continues over the week as we meet more and more of the locals.
Janie has made us up a lovely room - we even had fresh flowers in a vase. We refamiliarise ourselves with the concept and practice of beer fridges, cold beers and stubby holders. I decide on the ´Pure Blonde´ low carb beers that Janie drinks and Brendan drinks ´Carlton Cold'. I'm really touched by the fact that Janie has gone out and bought veggie food ,
such as snitzels and veggie burgers, which is the first time I've had these things since home and they are great cooked on the BBQ.
We go to the nearby Robe river a couple of times which is out of this world. It is so stunning, and the fresh cool water is really refreshing (the weather is about 30 degrees during the day). My stone skimming skills are sadly wanting but both Tony and Brendan manage to skim theirs right across the river and onto the far bank. The cloudless 'typically Pilbara' bright blue sky is gorgeous and the perfect backdrop for relaxing at the river. It´s an amazing spot and is only fifteen minutes drive from their house. People regularly come out here to camp for the weekend and party which must be great fun.
(Brendan carries on here)
On the first Saturday night we get a takeaway and watch some television. This is a strangely normal thing to do after all the places we've visited and it's most welcome. Imagine my joy when flicking through the channels to find that one of them is covering the FA Cup final, which turns out to be
a cracker of a match. The same network has coverage of the Champions League final too, so on the Thursday morning at 2:45am I watch that as well. It was nice to think I could watch these games at the same time as everyone at home.
On one of the days Tony takes us on a tour of the mine, which is vast and has some seriously big machines driving round, moving the ore onto huge trains to be taken away for refining.
We also enjoy a swim in the (free!) outdoor pool in the town as we are feeling a little unfit after a few days of eating too much.
The highlight of the visit is a road trip to the Newman bike show the following weekend. The bike show is being run by the Panna Riders, a social bikers group from Pannawonica, except it's being held in Newman, 500 miles away. To get there takes us a whole day's driving in convoy, with Tony, Leon, Nicola and I taking it in turns to drive the two utes (utility trucks), carrying fuel for Rob, Jippo and Snake on their bikes. Poor Tony hasn't had a bike
for a while as his new one is still being built, so he takes the opportunity to have a go on Jippo's for one of the stretches. Janie also has a ride on the back of Jippo's bike and then (don't panic Zoe!) so does Nicola. To her extreme annoyance I neglect to get any pictures of this, as I was in the back of the Hilux trying not to spill a pot noodle she had bought at the services, but hadn't had time to eat before we set off again. You'll have to look at one of the pictures of the bikes and try to imagine her hanging on with her hair billowing out behind her.
We arrive at the bike show venue on the Friday night, which is a chance for the Panna Riders to catch up with each other and have a few beers. As they are running the show the next day they will be on the soft drinks, so it's their chance to relax. As with the townsfolk in Pannawonica itself, the Panna Riders also make us feel welcome.
On the Saturday, the show starts at midday. The highlights include a bike competition,
where the visiting bikes are judged in several categories such as Best American, Best Paint Job and People's Favourite, voted for by the public. Tony has the honour of being one of the judges.
There are also three bands, the first a young local group, the second an excellent blues band and finally an AC DC salute band. The lead singer of the blues band spots me taking pictures and during one of the breaks invites me to come on stage to take some close ups, on the provisio that I send them on to him to put on their website. In the middle of all this there's a burn out competition. The idea is that the front wheel is immobolised and the engine revved to cause the rear one to spin. Contestants are encouraged to enter with the promise of a new tyre supplied and fitted in the morning. Its qute exciting as the bike revs, the tyre spins and rubber burns. There is only one contestant (the first) who actually bursts his tyre and the air is left filled with thick smoke. There are also tattoo competitions which have different categories such as colour, black and white, ankle,
arm back, leg etc. Tony enters and wins the back category for his amazing artwork.
On the Sunday we set off in the afternoon to start the long drive back to Karratha. There is very little traffic on the roads in the outback, you see a couple of cars or a road train (truck) every few kilometres. Because of the scarcity of traffic it is customary to acknowledge each other with a wave as you pass. The busiest it gets is when we find ourselves behind one car with another four coming in the opposite direction. Tony jokes, "It's like Piccadilly Circus!"
There was a heart stopping moment as we passed an overturned car just off the road in a ditch. Tony reasons (after looking at the skid marks) that the driver veered onto the gravel at the left side of the road, then overcorrected, swerving right and losing control. We stop to make sure that it hadn't just happened with the occupants needing help, but the painted tyre tracks, we learn, indicate that the police have been at the scene.
We hope that the accident wasn't fatal, and reason that we would have heard on the
news if it had been. It is still a chilling reminder of what can happen if your attention lapses which is possible given the lack of stimulous on these long and relativately straight country roads. We pull away at a slightly slower pace.
As we get closer to Karratha and the darkness sets in, we keep our eyes peeled for kanagaroos, hoping that one will not jump out in front of the car. I only see one, but fortunately it's heading away from the road. There is no point driving back to Pannawonica as our flight leaves from Karratha the following morning, so Tony has arranged for us all to stay with a very good friend of theirs called Brenda. She really lovely and has a great house. The patio at the back of the house is paticularly nice, because as well as the stereo, table, chairs and beer fridge, it also has a spa. Brenda invites us to jump in and after the long drive we have no hesitation, in fact I spend a good couple of hours in there.
The next morning we have the short drive to the airport, but not before we've said goodbye
to Brenda who's been a perfect host even making us all tea and toast. It's been a fun-filled ten days in Western Australia and a complete change from everything on the trip so far. The best part was spending time with Tony and Janie, especially as we had so little time with them when they were over for the wedding. We have been very well looked after and we are sad to leave. Having said our goodbyes we board the flight to Perth, from where we will fly on to Sydney.
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Zoe
non-member comment
Thanks for another exciting travel blog ! !
Great to read about Australian stretch Very glad I'm reading about the bikes after the event ! Reminds me of my sending you vitamins to Australia last time Nicola when in the event you had been flying a plane ....!! Particularly good to catch up on news and photos of Tony and Janie you all seemed to be having a great time ! Happy Birthday Mrs Mcnally !! Zoe xxx