The Great Aussie Road Trip - Perth to Exmouth


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June 23rd 2008
Published: June 23rd 2008
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It started with a bang......................well it didn't start with a bang, but the first significant disaster of our long awaited road trip was a 'bang' as our tyre exploded 174km north of Perth. The next day our radiator burst. Five days after that Harry was dead, or as good as.


I should probably start out by introducing you to Harry. He was our first baby, the first big thing we bought as a couple, so we loved him from the off. A silver 1984 Toyota Hiace, previously used as a work van for a Perth based car spraying company, now converted into a travellers dream. A sink, a 2 burner stove with a grill, 2 batteries to switch between so you never run out, radio that can be played when you aren't driving, 2 fans, loads of storage space. We didn't have to leave the van if we didn't want to, apart from for toilet breaks!

We fell in love when we first saw him and knew he had to be ours. He was a bit older than other vans but did have a reconditioned head gasket and wasn't rusty at all. We also got him checked out and serviced, he was all good.

We did have a niggling problem with the temperature gauge that sort of got resolved but we weren't completely convinced that it was working properly. It seemed ok in the month we had to drive it around Perth though.

We'd set off from Perth with all the excitement and trepidation you'd expect from the daunting journey ahead - 6000 kilometres through some of the most isolated and unpopulated land in Australia, if not the world.

The previous few weeks had been a blur of preparation, goodbyes, meeting friends, dinners out, drink and getting accomplished in Perth what we really should have done earlier during our 3 month stay there.

We'd had warnings from all angles about the dangers of the outback, not in the sense to deter us but more to make sure that we go out there prepared. A spade was the surpising, yet recurring, item of choice that all Aussies mentioned. Why? In the heat of the day you should do nothing - no walking, cycling - and sitting in the van will cook you alive - so you dig a hole underneath the van and wait there until either help arrives or it is cool enough to go searching for help.

We were also warned to knock our shoes out before putting them on as spiders like to live there, and also not to brake if a kangaroo hops into your path but to just stop accelerating. And hope for the best! Driving at night is also a huge no-no, as this is when the roos come out..... even if you have a roo bar they don't exactly bounce.

So this was it, goodbyes completed, and on a miserable day in Perth, rain lashing down and strong winds making the rain horizontal, we set off. On an adventure we together had been waiting for for over a year, and I for 8 years had privately dreamed of driving the entirety of Australia. This was the start of a dream.

Our first planned stop was Yanchep but as our landlady Mary had advised us to take the Great Northern Highway (GNH) we missed this. It was also partly due to the inability of Australians to sign post anything, anywhere, ever.

So we headed out towards the Swan Valley and onto the GNH, turning right and following it on until it joined the Brand highway. We were told we'd feel the romoteness straight way but we didn't particularly, whilst the road was certainly not busy it wasn't quiet either. The was also numerous settlements on either side, lush green fields, hills and of course rain. And there was also the constant reminder that we were indeed driving Australia by the red dirt on either side of every road.


But as we settled in to the expected 4 hour drive to the Pinnacles National Park, disaster struck! With a bang followed by the sound of repeated bangs, something was wrong. As we pulled over to the 'soft' shoulder, onto the red dirt, we both rushed out, Laura straight to the back to tighten up the bike rack - straight passed the mess that was our back left tyre.

I had never seen anything like it - it wasn't just deflated, it had literally exploded and torn the tire apart.

<br>Bugger! We expected this but not so soon - only 174k in! We also then found out we'd lost our spanner so couldn't get the spare tyre off and Harry had sunk so low we couldn't get the jack underneath! Not to worry, my trusty spade sorted thought out - though we still had to flag down help to get the tyre off, and also a lesson in how to use a jack for that matter!
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<br>A beaten up yellow ute stopped to help us, as the man got out his cries of 'holy shit' indicated how bad it was, said he hadn't seen a tyre like it!
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<br>After getting it all sorted and back on the road we had to drive past the Pinnacles turn off to go 15km to Badgingara to get a new spare tire. 'Truly Rural' it proclaimed on the welcoming sign - 'The Arsehole of Australia' would have been more appropriate I thought. A garage, a petrol station and little else was all that was there, and after parting somewhat begrudgingly with $122 for our new tyre we swiftly headed off.
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<br>Down a much thinner road to the Pinnacles we prayed for more luck but got nothing from the weather as it continued to hammer it down. Arriving at the Pinnacles we had to turn our wipers off as we were literally showering the ranger who took our entry fee.
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<br>I wasn't sure what to expect from the Pinnacles. I'd been told it was rubbish and not worth seeing. From all the photos we saw in Perth it seemed small, but every tour going north went there, so we thought we better check it out. And it was great! The white sand turned to golden sand as we went on the sand track, either side of us hundreds and hundreds of limestome pinnacles, all different shapes and sizes but usually no more than about 9ft.
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<br>A quick respite in the rain allowed us to get out for a little play, allowing us to get up close and personal to these ancient mini-monoliths. Millions of years had shaped the limestone into what it is now and the shapes in the rocks were truly fascinating.
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<br>We drove on to Cervantes for a quick fuel stop, had a little look but it was another 'town' that had very little to offer. Moving on up the coast to Jurien Bay where we expected to stop for the night we were greeted by 'No Camping' signs everywhere so headed north again for 30k up to Greenhead. More 'no camping' signs so we gave up and paid for a campsite. At least we could shower here!
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<br>In the morning we had a short walk to the beach where we saw a sea lion playing in the surf and then we hit the road again, onto Dongara/Port Denison for some walking action. 
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<br>We passed a place called Knobby Head so stopped for some classic comedy photos, arriving in Dongara about mid-day.
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<br>We parked out by the beach and had a brisk 3 k walk into town, walking down by the River Irwin and past a natural beehive. Fantastic to see all the bees at work, I've seen them in 'captivity' but never in the wild. We also saw a black swan, famed in Western Australia as this is the only place they exist apparently.
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<br>A 'Heritage Walk' took us past many buildings that would be relatively new for England, including the 'Old' Flour Mill - under 200 years old and now shut, but it looked fine by me!
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<br>The walk back took us by the other side of the river and back to the van where we continued our journey up the coast to Geraldton.
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<br>Stopping at the tourist information we quickly realised that there was little to do here and the town was in fact pointless! They did have an award winning museum though which we just missed so headed up to the HMAS Sydney memorial to pay our respects.
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<br>It was a truly beautiful memorial, with a massive dome compromising of 645 steel seagulls, each representing one of the 645 Australian sailors lost at sea during the second world war.
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<br>There was also a wall indicating who died that day and a statue of a woman which represented the desperation of the woman of Geraldton whom waited anxiously for their men, who would never return.
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<br>We'd decided to stay the night at a 'free' campsite 28k north of Geraldton at a beautiful place called Coronation Bay. It ended up costing $10, but significantly more after we discovered Harry crying - he'd sprung a leak in his radiator. We knew this was going to cost us.
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<br>The RAC man came late on and confirmed our worst fears, that it would indeed cost us, $400 he said. It turned out to be twice that. Another absolute nightmare for us.
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<br>The following morning, on the RAC mans advice, we filled him up with water, drove 10k, let him cool down, filled up again and then drove the next 10k. We only had to do this twice mind so wasn' too much of a chore.
<br>The garage wasn't busy so took us right away, the nature of the problem meaning that it would take a while so we headed to the museum that we missed the previous day.
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<br>By the time we were done there the van was ready so we parted with $820 hard earned dollars and got on the road again. We decide to take the 'Scenic Tourist Drive' to Northampton, 45km by the main road but 60km down this one. And scenic it was!
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<br>Pretty quickly after leaving Geraldton the view opened up revealing a vast landcape of green meadows and red mountains, going on for as far as the eye could see. The road swept through all of this and here we felt isolated - we didn't pass another car for 40km.
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<br>Arriving in Northampton, apparenly another historic town but nothing really of interest we found where we hoped to stay for the night - down in our book as a free campsite - which was an abandoned caravan site we found more 'no camping'signs. The town had nothing to keep us there so we headed 20km out towards the coast to a gem of a village called Horrocks.
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<br>This consisted of a general store and numerous holiday homes but the beach was fantastic and the water was the clearest I'd seen yet in Australia - crystal clear. We parked up and decided to stay as the no camping sign there was obscured by some trees so we thought we'd chance it, and plead ignorance if caught.
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<br>I went for a swim as the sun went down and launched into the beautiful water off the diving platform situated about 10 metres out. Got covered in bird poo as it would appear that I was jumping in off the seagulls habitat!
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<br>We set off early the next morning on route to the Hutt River Province, or Principality. We'd read about it in our lonely planet guide so knew we had to make a visit.
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<br>The turn off was 10km north of Northampton, and after another 5/10km of a beaten but sealed road we got to Harrys first real challenge -  a dirt road, or unsealed road as they call them over here.
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<br>It felt very rough. Harry was shaking almost violently as the corrugated road punished him, and us, but as we went on it did get better. We crossed the 'border' into the principality and a few kilometres later we were there - at the farm which has been declared as 'Australias second largest country'.
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<br>It is in fact the only principality in the world to have been claimed without bloodshed and the 'Prince', Prince Leonard Casley, was an absolute legend!
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<br>He is an 83-year-old Australian farmer, not coming up much further than 5' 5" I'd have said, and with his wife Princess Shirley (who was sweeping up as we got there!) they welcome thousands of people every year, who come to learn how 1 man defied, and continues to defy, the Australian goverment.
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<br>He spoke at 100mph at great length in a broad Australian accent and was obviously a very intelligent man. It all came about before 1970 when the Western Australian Government wanted to reduce his quota for the amount of wheat he was allowed to produce and process, obviously therefore reducing his income vastly. But he found out that they did not have a law in place to implement this new quota, but they wouldn't budge. So he seceded from Australia on April 21st 1970.
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<br>Brilliantly, he found out that the only place in Western Australia that the British officially declared as their own was the Swan Colony, or Perth - so he beleives he can claim the rest as his, and is taking the Western Australian Government to The Hague, with $2 billion worth of claims, but they are refusing to go. Because if they go, he will be found to be correct - and this tiny, old Australian farmer will take over as governer of a state larger than the UK, Germany and Japan put together. Legend.
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<br>We said our farewells to the Prince and moved on, heading West along a dirt road for 25km before hitting the ocean road that would take us North to Kalbarri.
<br>We didn't have far to go, around 40km, but about 15km south of Kalbarri we got our first view point of the fabulous Kalbarri coastline. Beautiful orange, brown, red and dark red tumblagooda sandstone jutted out into the light blue ocean, topped with thick scrub bushes - and as we stood just taking in the view we noticed a pod of 10 dolphins playing in the surf below.
<br>The glare of the sun made these hard to view and equally hard to photograph but we could just about make them out.
<br>We headed to the next lookout which was Island Rock and upon arriving there we noticed another pod way down in the sea, this time around with around 30 dolphins in it. These were much easier to see and we could make out them playing with each other.
<br>We had a little walk and went to see the Natural Bridge before making our way into Kalbarri and finding our campsite. 
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<br>The visitors centre was our first point of call in the town as we needed to find out what we wanted to do - and we were gutted to find out that the road leading up to the 'Loop' and 'Z-bend' gorges (both of which I'd really been looking forward to) was unsuitable for campervans. We tried to get on a tour but they weren't running and they didn't just do buses up there.
<br>We contemplated asking people for a ride but thought we'd make do with the view points that we could get to, Hawks Head and Ross Grahams Lookout.
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<br>After a little rest we headed back out to the coast, stopping at Eagles Gorge first where you could make your way down the natural steps to the beach. We found children fishing for crabs and baby dog fishes and hundreds of beautiful shells - it was one of those places you could have stayed at for long periods and not get bored, it was beautiful.
<br>We had to move on though if we wanted to see everything so headed to Red Bluff, a viewpoint that overlooked Kalbarri and the mouth of the Murchison river. We found a kangaroo and her joey bouncing through the scrub. They are alomost inquisitive animals, not investigating what you are but the stop and stare at you, but bounce away if you get too close. We watched another brilliant West Australian sunset and headed back to town.
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<br>Following the advice that the visitor centre offered about getting out into the national park early (to avoid being out there in the heat of the day) we woke up at 8, but for unknown reasons we didn't get going until after 10.30.
<br>We headed out along the road leading to the lookouts, with all the intentions of missing the loop and Z-bend lookout - but thought we'd check with the ranger to make sure the visitor centre wasn't lying.
<br>'Its fine' he said. 'Really? You sure? We'll be ok?' was our reply - we could see we would be heading out onto a dirt road and we knew Harry didn't like them!
<br>'Yeah its fine. The visitor centre tell people that so they can sell tours. Just make sure you go fast!'.
<br>So we paid our entry fee and went for it. And he couldn't have been more wrong! 20km of the worst possible road conditions met us and shook and vibrated us more violently than we had been at the Hutt River. In fact  it made the Hutt River road seem like a sealed road it was that bad. And there was no let off, it was a bumpy hell the entire way. 
<br>We decided to head right to the Z-Bend look out first, which was beautiful - the Murchison river carved  what looked like a vague Z-bend to me, but there was still the steep, red gorge walls topped with the green bush leading down to the brown river - a true picture of the Australian outback if ever I saw one.
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<br>After another 12 kilometres of this god awful road we arrived at the Loop and Natures Window. Here we would start an 8 kilometre walk.
<br>We got to Natures Window first, a rock formation that, well, looks like a window - but its formed naturally, or by nature! They don't mess around with their names in Australia.
<br>The first part of the walk took us up high on a ridge with the river far down below. We went down the natural steps, up them, climbed and then walked through the bush, stopping at many viewpoints and also for the first time really taking in the huge variety of flora and fauna that Australia has.
<br>We passed 4 french tourists who really weren't wearing the right things for the walk that they were on - they obviously couldn't read the signs that outlined the dangers of the walk ahead!
<br>The clouds rolled in as I started to regret not bringing a jacket - it wasn't cold, but I didn't want to get stuck in the middle of nowhere with no means of warmth!
<br>After a quick stop for lunch the walk took us down right to the side of the river. We walked along a beach for a little while  before finding ourselves on the rock face of the gorge, which was now the path! At pretty much the exact moment we got onto this the heavens opened and it starting throwing it down. It was light at first so we sat under a natural shelter, a rock that came out a good 8 foot or so, waiting for it to pass. It didn't pass. It got worse! And as the inappropriately dressed french tourists passed us we knew we had to move.
<br>The walk was challenging and the rain was heavy - a combination you don't really want. But I loved every minute of it! The smell of the earth came out and even though we couldn't stop and take in the vast gorge in which we were walking, the 'path' we were walking that took us up, down and included a point were we were hanging out with our backs over the river, clinging to the side of the rock face, kept me well entertained.
<br>That finished and led us onto a beach, that then led through trees and back onto the gorge wall that would lead us back up to Natures Window. The relief of seeing this was immense - we wouldn't have been wetter if we'd actually jumped in the river - and I let out a yell that echoed off the gorge walls.
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<br>Back at the van we got changed and remembered the road got closed during wet weather - and we soon found out why. Every hole that had been throwing us around before, or every ridge, every bump - was now filled with water. And we really weren't in the right vehicle to deal with this!
<br>We swerved across the road, changing sides frequently to get the best road or to avoid the biggest puddles, often sliding and losing control into the sand banks at the side.
<br>What had felt like an eternity (about an hour) was over and we got back onto the main road (after passing the 'Road Closed due to Wet Weather' sign). We went back to the campsite and warmed up!
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<br>The next morning there was a pelican feed early on which wasn't that impressive if I'm honest so we headed out, took in the Hawks Head and Ross Graham lookouts and then made our way up the coast on our way to Monkey Mia and Shark Bay.
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<br>We travelled a good 250km, passing nothing of interest other than burst tyres and rotting kangaroos by the side of the road, before turning left onto the road that would lead us up to the Shark Bay World Heritage listed area.
<br>Our first stop was Hamelin Pool, an area famed for its Stromatolites. It turned out to be a tiny little camp area which was packed with butterflys, obviously very content with the tranquil surroundings.
<br>We took a walk out to where the stromatolites were, passing the 'quarry' where shell bricks were harvested! The millions and millions of tiny shells that wash up on the beaches here release calcium carbonate (think thats right!) when wet, which solidifies when dry. From this they can cut bricks from it - and a church in Denham is built using these bricks!
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<br>The stromatolites were a bit dissapointing to be honest, I didn't fully understand what they were until I got there and was expecting something similar to stalagmites that you find in caves. But what they are is essentially layered rocks that grow at an average of a metre every 2000 years - apparently they ruled the earth, or covered it rather, some 300-500 million years ago.
<br>What makes them grow is sensitive cynobacteria - which needs perfect conditions to grow - so therefore these stromotalites only exist in two places in the world. They suddenly became more interesting!
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<br>After that we started the drive up to Eagles Bluff where we would stay for the night. We stopped briefly at shell beach. When you hear shell beach the name it conjours up an image of huge shells constantly being washed up on the shore, for you to pick up and admire at leisure. This it wasn't - it was beautiful, it was calm, but it was millions, probably billions, of the same tiny shells we had seen at Hamelin Pool. And because if the solidifying of the beach when it rains, it was mainly hard!
<br>However, it was incredibly peaceful and one of the few places I've been where there was not any tidal movement of the sea - which made for an incredibly relaxing environment.
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<br>At Eagles Bluff we viewed the bay over to Pointless Loop (great name!) and saw dolphins frollicking in the water and a shovel-nosed ray monitoring the shallows near the beach below. After an unsuccessful attempt fishing we called it a night - ready to get up early for the Monkey Mia dolphins in the morning.
<br>And these dolphins did not dissapoint! We arrived early for the 7.30 'feeding' and were greeted by a glorious sunrise and we entertained by the pelicans who were obviously waiting for the dolphins food.
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<br>A crowd started to gather and after waiting for about 20 minutes the first cry of 'there they are!' broke the morning silence. And they were there - loads of them! They effortlessly drifted directly towards the beach as the crowds kicked their shoes off  and got ankle-deep in the water, they then turned and as if doing a 'fly-by' they drifted in front of all of us, about 2 feet away. 
<br>The ladies who stop the crowd going mental by educating us on what is and what is not dolphin etiquette waded into the water and gave a very informative talk, the dolphins constantly nudging at their legs as the younger dolphins jumped out of the water and thrashed around.
<br>This really was a wonderful experience. Having one of the worlds most loved animals this close was great, and some people even got to feed them some small fish which they gobbled up gratefully.
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<br>After brief stops in Denham for which they was nothing of a worthy mention (apart from a church made of shell bricks - not as good as it sounds) we went north to Carnarvon where there was even less to write about! 
<br>Carnarvon is predominantly a farmers town and was surrounded by many banana plantations and other fruit farms. And that was about it.
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<br>We stayed the night just of Minilya road, literally in the middle of nowhere but with a suprising amount of grey nomads (older travellers!) and other campervans. This was one of many free camps that we stayed at - areas set aside far away from anything resembling civilisation with little more than a bush dunny.
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<br>In the morning it was on to Coral Bay and the famous Ningaloo Reef. Though the sun was shining it was surpisingly cold so we purchased a couple of beaten up wetsuits from the dive shop and got in the water at a spot along the beach called 5-knots. And it didn't dissapoint. Before we were even neck deep in water we were surrounded by an abundance of brilliantly coloured fish - yellow, black and white ones, yellow ones, blue ones, blue and white, purple, green - names of which I did find out but the names were too long. Of the ones we did see I remember the angelfish, parrot fish, snapper and spangled emporer. We also saw a couple of stingrays but unfortunately no sharks or turtles.
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<br>But the best thing was the coral. It wasn't as colourful as I remember the coral at the Great Barrier Reef to be but the variety of shapes and sizes was stunning. We drifted slowly around with minimal effort thanks to a helpful current, taking in all that was around us. Every time it looked like we were closed in by coral we'd find a narrow route out and drift into another world of coral, some resembling branches from a tree, others looking like massive brains and many other for which I can't find the words to describe. It was beautiful
<br>Unfortunately we couldn't stay there forever so we had lunch on the beach and a paddle - where we found a group of red snappers floating around in water no more than a foot deep. Their big eyes looked at you through the water as you looked down on what would be an exceptional dinner - but unfortunately it was what was known as a sanctuary zone so you couldn't just spear a fish!
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<br>We headed out of Coral Bay about mid-afternoon ready to make Exmouth for tea and so we could familarise ourselves with where we needed to be for the whale shark tour in the morning. But someone, specifically Harry the Hiace, had other ideas. Only 30 kilmetres out of Coral Bay Laura heard a noise resembling a light ticking noise, as I slowed down I realised I then couldn't accelerate properly and there was something seriously wrong.
<br>We managed to get to a parking and after stopping we realised there was smoke coming from the engine. Oh dear.
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<br>Fortunately we managed to flag down a Telstra engineer who had a satellite phone so we were able to phone the RAC. Waiting for the RAC to get 110km from Exmouthwe played football, span poi, blew bubbles and convinced ourselves it was nothing more than an oil problem, as I had changed the oil that morning and probably put the wrong one in.
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<br>One look from the RAC man, Aaron, proved how wrong we were. "She's buggered" he said, in a typically Australian way. "How buggered?" I asked. "Well, you've blown a hose, cooked the engine - if you're lucky its only a head gasket but you may need a new engine". "And how much will that cost exactly?" I asked, now extremely worried. "About $1-2000 for a new head, $2-3000 for a new engine".
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<br>As he pulled the van onto his flat-top trailer it really sunk in our predicament. We'd worked for 3 months in Perth to get this, and spent a fortune in petrol on the way up, we were now going to have to pay for an expensive taxi ride and on top of that we didn't have any transport to leave this cape we were now on. Our hearts sank - this wasn't in our script! How were we going to get to Melbourne for the Aussie rules games we had free tickets for? How were we going to make the ski season in time?! We weren't.
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<br>A full moon shone down glinting on the waters of the Exmouth gulf, Harry gutting a sorry figure on the back of the truck. I was broken. Laura tried to keep our spirits up by talking with Aaron but I was in no mood. This was the end of a dream for me, a feeling I never want to particularly have again. Little did we know it was going to be the best thing that ever happened to us..................

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