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Published: October 14th 2007
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Back on the bitumen again ... We arrived in Kununarra in the East Kimberley and headed straight to
the nearest Woolies to restock on supplies. Well Joel insisted on
doing this alone actually, while the rest of us headed to the pub -honest!
Kununarra's main industry is fruit and vegetable cultivation made
possible by abundant water supply provided by the Ord river dam.
More recently sugarcane has made an impact and there was even talks
of using it to produce a local biofuel - gudonya, as the natives say.
Because of time constraints for the day Joel had arranged a surprise
for us and we tucked into 8 large pizzas at Valentinos much to
everyones delight - especially Agnes. Then we left Kununarra in the darkness to set
up camp at a nearby gravelpit, which in spite of it's spooky feel
and car wrecks was a better option (and cheaper one) than pulling
into an official campsite. The wide area devoid of trees or other
obstacles allowed us to stare up at an even bigger and more impressive
starlit sky than usual.
The next day did mean checking into an official camping area because
we were in the Bungle Bungles or
Purnululu national park. It was okay
though since there were no other groups nearby and we were provided
with firewood by the CALM. With camp set up we unhooked the trailer
and sped off to a spot where we could enjoy the changing hues of the
sunset on the Bungles while munching on nibbles and sipping coldies.
The Bungle Bungles came to prominence only in the 1980s after a film
documentary announced there existance to the world. Access is by 4WD
drive only and just as well as they are very fragile formations. The
rock formations resemble beehive like shapes with alternate banks of
grey granite and red iron oxide, although no one is sure exactly how
they and the many gorges cutting through them were formed. Earlier
in the afternoon we had taken a stroll through Enchidna gorge to see the
rocks up close and the next day we were strolling through again
to experience the eerie sounds that Joel produced from his didgeridoo in
the cavernous Catherdal gorge. This had meant rising even earlier than
usual (which is just after dawn), so that we could observe the changing
colours produced by the rising sun on the rocks as
we breakfasted.
We were all very silent and sleepy as the Joel gunned the jeep along
the dirt roads to our pre-dawn rendezvous, but after some brekkie and
coffee we set out along the tracks. Even by 8 a.m. the heat from the
sun was searing and we lingered long in the cool gorge taking turns
at trying to get any sound from the didge.
Then Agnes and myself and Dee and Nelly were off! To go on our first
helicopter ride - a bargain at only $270 each for 30 minutes. By air
is supposed to be the best way to appreciate the unique Bungles
formations and so we blew the budget again. The choppers are no door,
glass bubble types and only take 3 passengers. In our one it was just
the two of us with Joe the pilot. THe headphones reduce the tremendous
noise somewhat, but I was surprised at how smooth the takeoff and
flying was - nothing like a plane. I tried shouting some of my usual
inane questions at the pilot until he politely pointed out the foot
activated button on the floor that I had to press if I wanted to speak
through
the mike. It was a weird and uncomfortable feeling hearing your
own voice in your ears as you spoke, so I gave up and just sat back to
enjoy the views and listen to Joe's toneless commentary. It was a very
enjoyable thirty minutes, seeing the Bungles from all angles and
frequently reminding yourself - Jesus! I'm actually in a helicopter.
I tried not to take too many photos, but the views were all so tempting.
At one stage I had the idea to stick the camera a little bit outside the
open door, but when the uplift nearly whipped it from my hand I calmed
down.
After that thrill we rejoined the others packed up and had another tasty
lunch after crossing the last river out of Bungle territory. Joel brought
us to another fantastic and secluded camping spot by a river, where we
splashed about and sipped beers. Our chef extraordinaire came up with very
tasty mexican food for us that night and it was obvious that we were
all getting along famously on this our fifth day together when Nelly
started to show us some of her judo moves, Dee gave us a couple of songs,
Suzanne
blew on the tin whistle and I tried a bit of harmonica. Another
great day and after the early start we were all exhausted and crept into our
swags under a bright and silvery full moon.
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