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Published: September 10th 2011
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Marble Statue
In respect of our early sheep graziers. A patchwork wider than a quilter's dream,
Seams longer than any seamstress ever sewed,
Outback Australia spreads its maize of colours,
Over Vast plains ruffled by blue hued ranges.
From horizon to horizon, a golden glow,
Almost unreal, intense, heart warming,
Canola plants dance to spring's vespers,
Waiting their summer harvest.
The adjoining patch contrasts so strong,
Stunted growth and grey foliage,
Barren patches of wasteland poor,
Abandoned by all but the hardiest creatures.
Australia's quilt is hemmed by surging tides,
Swell crashing into lime stone bluffs,
Like a jack in the box it rushes from blowholes,
Or carves its way through jagged crumbling arches.
As if competing quilters vie for your attention,
The hem changes to serpentine tones with whitest silica,
Joined to golden sand adorned with swaying palms,
Or granite outcrops scarred by tide and wind.
Ceduna - a small coastal town is a very pleasant place to stop for a while. There is much history here, but it was time spent in the Aboriginal Cultural Centre that impressed. We were fortunate that a number of the local artists had gathered for a workshop lead by a prominant artist. It was interesting to observe
Half way across Australia
The Pink Gallah marks mid point from East Coast to West Coast - so the sign sys. as each artist responded to expressing on canvas the image provided. Some produced highly realistic images while others used aboriginal traditional dot painting merged with modern images. The tutor commented on the changing way aboriginal artists are exressing their stories by blending traditional form with no traditional back grounds and images. We were very tempted to buy one of the works, and may yet do so.
We had a very useful map of the Nullarbor which was dotted with names which could be little towns. Alas, that is a terrible misconception. There is so little habitation along this rout for 1400 ks until Norseman. Maybe we have seen this route at its best after heavy rains last summer and autumn - an ever changing patchwork ranging from scruffy grey plants less thgan half a meter tall for mile upon mile. Then suddenly an area of totally different colour and texture as small trees covered the landscape. The trees all point north in response to the predominent winds ariving from Antarctica with boisterous impact.
Our timing was great to see the Souther Wright Whales from the cliffs at Head of the Bight. We observed several mothers and calves swimming
Local Skink
Saw many of these on the road around Ceduna just a few meters from the shore line.
So crossing from South Australia to Western Australia - while a long drive, it did not bore either driver or passenger. The driver had to remain very alert as we had gale force cross winds for day 2 of the journey. Fuel consumption rose to 15.5 litres/100 Ks for the day. For those of a mind to free camp, we found plenty of places to stop and were joined by other travelers each night. Some places were quite exposed, but we spent last night about 50ks south of Norseman in WA in a fabulous bush camp. We awoke this morning to the combination of beautiful birdsong and double header freight trains climbing the embankment towards Norseman.
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