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Published: March 29th 2014
WOMADELAIDE 2014...Music is the Weapon of Choice. Her song was the Anthem of the Arab Spring..."Kelmti Horra"..."My word is Free"...ringing through the streets of Tunisia...her name Emel Mathlouthi.
His journey was exploring and preserving the drum culture of his people...his music inspiring the disenfranchised indigenous peoples of West Papua...his band Airileke.
His life was to continue the vision of his father Fela Kuti...their music Afrobeat...uniting the masses in protesting corruption and poverty in his beloved Nigeria...who opened the 2010 Football World Cup in South Africa...the elder son...who else but Femi Kuti.
Where would you hear such messages in music?
Womadelaide 2014...that's where.
And what do these artists...these songsters in culture have in common?
Their music is embraced with power...with the maxim:
"Music is our Weapon of Choice."
*****
Music that crosses racial divides...ministers to the soul...embraces emotions...bringing people together...collectivism...popularity...masses in one voice...thus threats to governance and control...standing together in united song.
Music has power...unites the people...and despotic governments know it.
As
Emel Mathlouthi from Tunisia puts it:
"My song is the homage for the pen and the paper and the art...as the main power against repression."
And
"Music that has spoken to my homeland and the Arab world...as the catalyst for political action."
And
Femi Kuti from Nigeria:
"My music is Afrobeat...the weapon of the future."
*****
The American alternative
SPEAK
Lead singer of Arrested Developmenthip-hop band
Arrested Development...celebrating 20 years together...another hot act at Womadelaide.
Their song "Let Your Voice Be Heard"
"Beautiful people around the world
Stand up for what you believe in
Open up your mouth
Say it aloud and proud
let your voice be heard"
If there is a message to reach the people...who better than musicians to convey it?
*****
Emel Mathlouthi Kelmti Horra...My Word is Free...(English translation) The words are so powerful...no wonder this became the Anthem of the Arab Spring...Revolution in Tunisia.
Dwell a while...and be transported.
"I am those who are free and never fear...I am the secrets that will never die
I am the voice of those who would not give in...I am the meaning amid the chaos.
I am the right of the oppressed...that is sold by these dogs
Who rob the people of their daily bread...and slam the door in the face of ideas.
I am those who are free and never fear...I am the secrets that will never die
I am the voice of those who will not give in...I am
free and my word is free
I am free and my word is free.
Don't forget the price of bread...and don't forget the cause of our misery
And don't forget who betrayed us in our time of need.
I am those who are free from fear...I am the secrets that will never die
I am the voice who would not give in.
I am the secret of the red rose...whose colour the years toned
Whose scent the rivers buried...and who sprouted as fire
Calling those who are free.
I am the star shining in the darkness...I am a thorn in the throat of the oppressor
I am a wind touched by fire...I am the soul of those not forgotten
I am the voice of those who have not died.
I make clay out of steel...and build with it a new love
That becomes birds...that becomes homes...that becomes wind and rain.
I am all the free people of the world put together...I am like a bullet
I am all the free people of the world put together...I am like a bullet."
Imagine revolution...imagine
MARIA
Arrested Development thousands in the streets...anguishing in united voice...singing these words...singing for a new tomorrow...then see it as reality...My Word is Free...My Word is Free.
*****
Airileke One of the delights of Womadelaide is Speakers Corner...where some of the artists are interviewed before an audience and tell their stories.
Airi, Ronny & Malcolm from the band Airileke thus told their's.
"Rise of the Morning Star" is a project...a movement...whereby artists and musicians carry the voice of the people of West Papua...the western side of that massive island returned to the indigenous people when the Dutch vacated the Dutch East Indies...then annexed by Indonesia...and settled with intent so now the indigenous peoples are in the minority.
Their website... Rize.com ...epitomises the struggle of West Papua.
As Airi explains:
"How powerful, effective and important is music in non violent resistance. Music is our weapon of choice."
And to confirm the point their album is titled "Music is the Weapon of Choice"...a potent blend of traditional rhythms and electronica from PNG, West Papua, Torres Strait and Australia.
As Airi further explains:
"Freedom of expression in West Papua is suppressed. If the State sees musicians as a threat, they are imprisoned...because music is very powerful and a threat to the State.
AIRILEKE
Airi, Ronny & Malcolm It is important to maintain identity through culture and music and to keep it alive."
By way of example, The Black Brothers Band from PNG became the most popular band in Indonesia...selling out stadiums...thus freaking out the State...forcing them to flee to PNG then Holland and linked with revolution in Vanuatu.
By the Lombok Treaty, Australia remains quiet on the West Papuan issue...the world ignoring or impotent.
Airi says:
"But at Womadelaide, all nations and cultures are flying their flags. They are not defined by political boundaries and nations, but cultures and many identities in Australia...how we maintain our sovereinty, identity, nationhood...not about nations but about our individuals."
*****
The best gig on the planet Gotta live up to my name...but not wanting to be known as just a dancer...no sirree...gotta wide variety of skills in my quiver...can't just dance with potent causes...I'm here to enjoy the music...and to capture this festival with my lens.
Musicians from Indonesia, PNG, Iraq, Sweden, Norway, Spain, USA, Pakistan, Australia, Scotland, Guinea, Portugal, France, UK, Reunion, Tunisia, New Zealand, Nigeria, China, Mongolia, Columbia, Belgium, Austria, India, Bulgaria, Zimbabwe, Japan, Algeria and Cuba...over
HANGGAI
Mongolian Rock 500 performers...countless stories...irrepressible rhythms...the World in song.
Womadelaide's 26th year...88,000 patrons over 4 days & nights...over 500 musicians/performers...7 stages...catering for every taste...gotta be the best gig on the planet.
Denise as the Media Representative for Travelblog...and me as her Photographer.
But where to start...luckily able to meet some of the artists before the festival opened in the Media Call...and some of the talented team that makes Womadelaide the best of its kind.
Here's to the Womadelaide team...talent and dedication in spades.
******
Media call opened by indigenous owners of the land...a
Kauma Welcome.
Then a couple of songs from
Emel Mathlouthi...disappearing backstage for a gracious chat with me...joined by
One Love from the USA hip hop band
Arrested Development...my name is Spencer he said...but I preferred his stage name...Emel twirling...already the Festival buzzing...and it hasn't opened yet!!!
Out the back lining up at the gate were some guys in yellow with wheelie bins...so I waited for them to go through...little knowing they were not maintenance but
Cie Fracasse de 12 "HOP" from France with a wicked dance routine that caught everyone's attention.
Ruby Dhatura...Evangeline & Tricia in
belly dance finery...Matthew their drummer...Tricia flashing her Tuareg cross...won me over...dreaming of dancing with the Tuaregs again at Timbuktu.
A large contingent of men in subcontinent garb...just lying around...then rising as one to chat with me.
Asif Ali Khan from Pakistan, the renowned master of Qawwali music...with his band...Sufi religious music. The best music is in Lahore he tells me...promising if I come to Pakistan he will take me to the best places for music in his country...mmm...where's my diary?
George the manager for
Carminho...exciting delights of Portuguese Fado to come...my kinda music...one of the first LPs I owned in my youth was Fado with two Portuguese guitars...used to play it on sunny mornings...no better way to greet the day.
And who are these funky Chinese guys...ah...from Yunnan Provence...been there twice...the band
Shan Ren...jumping out of my skin in anticipation for the festival to start.
Mike from Festivals Australia for a yarn and some laughs.
Who is that band practicing just there?
Mookoomba from Zimbabwe...great rhythms...winning smiles.
Many kindred spirits descending on Adelaide...yep...let the festivities begin.
Day One - Friday Kauma Welcome from the indigenous owners of the land.
Mookoomba from the Tonga tribe of Northern Zimbabwe...hailed as the future of Afrosound...cool cats in cool suits.
Los Coronos from Spain...1970s Spanish disco surf style...big white cowboy hats...blew me away when their cover for Bliiy Thorpe & the Aztecs' Poison Ivy was 'Poison Nares Ivy'.
Buika from Guinea/Spain now USA...compared by some with Nina Simone...a sit down only show
Time to liven things up...the rock gods from Mongolia...
Hanggai...missed them in 2012...not missing them this time.
One of my favourite musos is
Teng Ge from Mongolia...his music inspiring me on one of my trips to China...hint hint...love to see
Teng Ge in OZ some day!!!
But
Hanggai are from a different planet...rock meets throat singing meets metal meets horse head fiddle...gutsy music from the steppes...getting the groove...yeh.
Need a breather...something surreal...
Slow Dancing (After Dark)...hyper slow motion video on 3 adjoining screens of superb dancers by David Michalek from USA...quiet part of the Botanic Gardens every night...10 out of 10.
Up the front for
Fat Freddys Drop from New Zealand...big band reggae to rap to funk...massive squeeze of younger patrons...great show...brilliant.
Les Gitans Blanc...Romanian gypsy swing...no better way to close the night.
*****
Day Two - Saturday Another highlight of Womadelaide are workshops...musicians explaining their craft and culture to an audience.
Ruby Dhatura Belly Dance to start the day.
When they announced that "Dancing Dave is here" and pointed me out...had a feeling I may have to shake my booty and strut my stuff...on your feet...feeling then reality.
The troup dazzled with a show then audience getting into belly dance moves from around the globe...amazing how many of the women picked it up just like that...shimmering away...while the token blokes...well our hips do not have the same flexibility...Evangeline and the troup smiling and encouraging throughout...lots of fun but this dancer ain't no belly dancer!
Got some pics of Ruby Dhatura with Mookoomba...great to see artists from different cultures getting together.
Azadoota from Iraq...pop rock, Latin rhythms, funk & reggae with Assyrian Neo-Aramaic vocals...reviving an ancient language with modern joyful rhythms...colour added with Ruby Dhatura dancers twirling in front of stage.
Then down to Speakers Corner for
Airileke in Artists in Conversation.
Jeff Lang from Australia...that enigma of modern blues...his Churchill lap guitar sizzling with exotic sound...been following Jeff
for many years now.
A workshop with
Carminho...explaining the world of Fado in Portugal...more like a lifestyle of storytelling for the common man in song.
Wandering around after that...getting ready for the night.
Shan Ren from China...looking forward to these guys...thought they'd be cool cats and they did not disappoint. Electric guitars and traditional instruments with Yunnan vibe and infectious grooves...audience dancing in front...one of my highlights of the festival.
Up the front for
Mookoomba from Zimbabwe at 8pm...these young men certainly know how to put on a show...southern African rhythms quite different to the West African and North African I am familiar with.
Airileke laying out the rhythms of Music as the Weapon of Choice.
Then another squeeze up the front for
Arrested Development from USA from 10 to 11.30pm.
Hip hop is not really my thing...blues & rock roots for this dancer...but this band really know how to put on a show...Speak on vocals with One Love chiming in for the occasional rap...two sensational female vocalists...one scoring as the prettiest & funkiest I have ever seen...kinda made it impossible to tear myself away to see
Awesome Tapes from Africa that was
on my must see list.
Then
Asif Ali Khan closing the night with Sufi music to 1 a.m...everyone will sleep well tonight.
Day 3 - Sunday Got a call from an English couple that we had met and partied with in the icy ancient city of Pingyao in Northern China years past...now living on the coast south of Adelaide...so kinda a no brainer to have a reunion.
Fantastic to spend the day with
Nick & Dianne & their two girls.
Tour of the beaches and Clare Valley and their beachside home.
One of the joys of travelling is meeting folks with shared interests and keeping in touch...little effort to do so...major benefits when you do.
*****
Got back to Womadelaide just in time for
Femi Kuti from Nigeria in Speakers Corner for Artists in Conversation.
Of the artists this year, Femi is the one I had earmarked to speak to...to hear his message:
"There seems to be no place for my dream...to see peace, love and happiness without corruption.
Life seems to be getting very sad and its very depressing.
Music has
the power to reverse bad issues and we need to keep talking about these issues.
Things seem to be getting worse and that's serious.
But while we are still alive we must fight and never give up hope.
Life spiritually is a balance. Never leave the bad guy to be victorious. We must allow the voice of the people to be out there.
Never let terrorism live. If we give up the world will falter...and we can't allow that...so there is always hope.
My music is Afrobeat...the weapon of the future...to challenge the authorities...the dictatorship in Nigeria...to use the music as our weapon."
*****
He spoke of the Shrine...the enclave his father had built for his family and his music. His father who had been imprisoned and tortured many times but persisted in his protests against corruption through his music.
The land they thought they owned was only leased...rights dying with his father.
So the family bought land from the royalties and rebuilt the Shrine and continued playing the music..."using music as our praying force"...masses coming to listen...entry fees minimal so the jobless could come.
But the Government
had other ideas.
For a number of years all efforts were made to silence the music...to prevent people coming to hear the music.
For 3 years all people that came to the Shrine were arrested and many were flogged.
Femi got the World Press to protest and reopen the Shrine.
As a result the last government raid was in 2008...the Shrine reopened and there have been no raids since.
The government built a museum for Fela Kuti's memory...now supports annual festivals.
Houses, hotels, businesses, event centres and a market have now been built around the Shrine.
*****
But corruption persists. Nigeria has so much prosperity (from oil), but there is so much poverty.
He rates Nigeria as the number one terrorist hotspot in the world.
Femi says there are more luxury cars passing in a minute than in UK...but the majority of the people are poor.
To put it in perspective Femi says:
"Poverty is not an African problem...it is a universal global problem...requiring a global fight."
*****
The atmosphere in Speakers Corner had been heavy for over an hour as Femi told his story.
Now its my turn...microphone handed to me...asking Femi the following
question:
"I am Dancing Dave from Travelblog.
We are a worldwide community of travellers.
Femi Kuti is in Adelaide at the moment and Seun Kuti is touring Australia in April.
Our members want to know two things...
Firstly, Where to find the music in Nigeria?
and
Secondly, if they go to the Shrine, will they be welcome and will they be safe?"
Femi's demeanour lifted...like heaviness had been lifted from his heart...becoming animated and cheerful.
"You can find the music anywhere...you can find it everywhere" he said...getting carried away...having to bring him back to my second question.
"If they come to the Shrine, they will have the time of their lives" he replied enthusiastically.
"They will be safe. In Lagos there is no safer place than the Shrine."
He told of the Afrobeat Festival in October each year at the Shrine beckoning for all to come and gave the website. I think he said it ran from 10pm to 7am each evening during the festival.
On that uplifting note the interview ended and a smiling Femi Kuti disappeared into the night.
*****
THE PLANET TALKS
Speakers Corner with Femi Kuti Scrambling to find my diary...been planning to go to Baaba Maal's Festival on the River in Senegal...that's each December...Somehow need to find the time to visit Femi Kuti's Festival in Nigeria in October...and we're booked for a Blues Cruise in the Caribbean next January...fearful I'll find another festival that's a must before Womadelaide 2014 is over.
Hope I can sleep tonight!!!
*****
Emel Mathlouthi again at 9pm...her voice is breathtaking...further chat when signing her CD "Kelmti Horra"...best CD I picked up at the festival...can't stop playing it.
Her calling as
"A voice of jasmine...a messenger of freedom." Ending a busy day with
Rachid Taha from Algeria...energetic North African rock...singing one song over & over as we drifted back to our hotel.
*****
Day 4 - Monday When attending
the Festival in the Desert at Timbuktu, Mali in 2011...a man walked into our encampment and walked right up to me and said "Excuse me are you David Hooper?"
Blow me over with a feather...its
Peter Jensen...a classmate from Sydney 40 years before.
So I invited him to the wedding. See
Our Tuareg Wedding...Festival Au Desert...Timbuktu, Mali Peter lives
in Adelaide...so our reunion was today.
He was busy catching up with the music so we arranged to catch up late arvo/early evening.
*****
Had to catch
Antonio Serrano from Spain...mooted as the best harmonica player in the world...dazzling skills...variety of styles...his Sonny Boy Williamson tracks blowing me away...then encore with his brother...very special.
We desperate to see
Carminho from Portugal...Portuguese, accoustic & bass guitars backing the Fado songstress...serious evocative vocals...just love that Portuguese guitar...definitely one of my favourite instruments.
Caught up with
Peter & his wife Rosie...gorging ourselves on kebabs and ice cream...and stories of the music.
They wanted to see
Dub Inc from France and
Billy Bragg from UK so we split up to see
Roberto Fonseca on piano from Cuba who had a guy on kora from Mali in his band...Cuba meets Mali...gotta see that.
Some things are meant to be.
We headed over early to get a good spot for
Femi Kuti and the Positive Force from Nigeria to close the festival...got front row...right in front of the gap between Femi's keyboard and percussion.
When this mega Show kicked off Femi did a track on
sax then sang...to Denise & I...bending right down...eyeballing us between gyrations...as if he recognised us from the interview before...just for one track...but what a track!
Ninety minutes of extraordinary energy...three female dancers & singers in pink shaking their booties...band rocking the stage...thousands enthralled late into the night.
Gotta get my breath...ramming home the message.
Undeniable..."Music is the Weapon of Choice". Where else but at Womadelaide?
Can't wait to see what goodies they lay on for us next year.
Relax & Enjoy,
Dancing Dave
PLEASE NOTE: There are pages of photos. Scroll to the foot of each page and click Next. .
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Laila the Tuareg
Denise Hooper
What an exhausting 4 days...but if you want to rest stay at home!
One of the reasons I love Australia is that we are so isolated & therefore relatively safe from strife. One of the reasons I love Womedelaide is to hear the voice of others and what better way to hear that than through music & song. So thank you Dancing One for presenting those memories so vibrantly.