Its all downhill now

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Pardon us backtracking for a moment, but in the last blog we forgot to mention that when heading across to Townsville as we headed away from Mt Isa we came across the first feral cat (dead) we have seen in all our travels. We were astounded at the number of cats we saw with the greatest concentration/epicentre around Julia Creek. The total was 18 live and 18 dead/road-kill, and no, Geoff did not run over any of them although if we weren’t towing 3 tonnes of caravan… the score may have been different. And for what it is worth, we have not seen a single rabbit amongst the dead things that litter the side of the road.




We also need to mention that on this leg, there was a definite highlight and one to be recommended to anyone travelling this route and it is to be found in the little town of Richmond. In relatively recent times, Richmond has found that it is in the middle of a spectacular field of fossils. It was created 100’s of millions of years ago when the sea/ocean covered a huge expanse of Terra Australis, stretching down from the Gulf of Carpentaria to nearly Alice Springs. A large number of dinosaur fossils have been uncovered, pretty much by accident, on the farmlands around Richmond. Farmer Rob Ievers was responsible for starting the whole thing off when he was out mustering and came across the fossilised skeleton of Kronosaurus – you will have to look it up. Richmond Shire Council created and expanded the Richmond Marine Fossil Museum which shortly became Kronosaurus Korner Information Centre. We initially baulked at the cost of entry (even with Seniors discount), but we have to say it was a truly amazing collection of fossils that amazed and delighted us. You will have to Google it as we didn't take any pics in the museum.





After spending two days in Townsville using the air-conditioner and washing machine extensively we headed south. The plan now is for a lot of ‘free camping’ as we head down the coast, and after a 2 day stop in Bowen with sandflies in low numbers we started ‘free’ camping just north of Mackay at St.Helens Beach. It was a lovely little campground run by the Mackay Regional Council (MRC) and the amenities were pristine. But the sand-flies… damn near ring-barked Geoff’s legs. So we moved on the next day (early) to another MRC run park at Seaforth. We had an absolute beach front site, and went to sleep with the sound of waves crashing on the sand about 20m meters from the caravan. Geoff got out the fishing rod, but to no avail. Again the sand-flies got to us and two days was the limit at this lovely place. We headed inland for a bit of respite at Kinchant Dam -the sand-flies can’t fly that far, or so we hoped. It’s only 50 kms west of Mackay, but it took us quite a long time to get there as Geoff noticed a new “noise” while towing and when he got out to investigate he found that a little pin that holds the tongue of the towing hitch in alignment had broken. He was reluctant to drive as it was, so we off loaded the caravan on the side of the road with Marg in it to guard against it being stolen and he drove back into Mackay to buy the necessary replacement part. Marg had barely been alone with the van for five minutes when she saw a white head go up to the door. Thinking it was Geoff, she wondered what he had left behind. However, said head continued around the van and was shortly on the other side peering through the window calling out “is anybody there?” Marg alighted from the van and found an elderly gentleman (older than her anyway) wanting to ask how much we were selling the van for! It took some persuasion to convince him the van was broken and not for sale. Good thing Geoff was not there or …



Kinchant Dam was a lovely spot, but the down side was that the site we were allocated was on a huge slope and it took over an hour and a half to get the van (nearly) level.

We were afraid the whole time we were there that the chocks and bricks valiantly holding the van in place might dislodge and the Ritchies would go sailing down the slope into the dam. Kinchant Dam is one of many dams in the Mackay hinterland, and is a place where there is a mix of workers from the nearby developments and dedicated fishing people (and in some cases they are one in the same) after the elusive giant barramundi, cod and several other species which were featured in photos at the bar. Nonetheless, it was a welcome respite from the dreaded sand-flies, and we got the opportunity to take a quick trip to the Eungella National Park – we had visited it on our trip in 2008, and sample the ‘famous’ pies at the Pinnacle pub.



Back to the coast and next stop was Carmila Beach. The Camps Australia Wide book (bible) said that the camp area was at the end of 300 mts of narrow sandy road. Well, it was a lot better than that, however on turning into to one of the many separate camp areas along the track there was definitely soft sand. Four wheel drive was not enough and before getting into real trouble we were out and let the tyres down. After our experience at Ningaloo Station (W.A) Geoff bought a serious compressor when we were back in Melbourne in August and there is now no issue with letting down the tyres.



We had a site where we could literally step out of the van onto the beach, and although there seemed to be masses of sand-flies around, (not seemed, there definitely were in the afternoon) they were not as potent as their brothers only a few kms further north. Another bonus here was that August finished with a blue moon on Friday and therefore when we arrived on Saturday the moon was still full and produced an amazing “stairway to the moon” effect across the sand flats directly in front of the van. We were able to light a campfire each evening we were there and enjoyed sitting outside having coffee or wine for a couple of hours. Geoff also got out the fishing rod for a bit more exercise and fish feeding, but that was all that happened! After five days of free camping we needed to do some washing and refill the water tanks so here we are in Rockhampton at a van park. Whilst here Geoff decided that he would have the springs looked at in the car as he felt they were sagging. He made the decision to spend $1500 on new springs and shockers and it was certainly a shock to Marg when she found out. She wouldn’t mind some replacement parts either! Anyway we are departing tomorrow for three nights free camping and then we will be in Tewantin/Noosa with Marg’s sister and brother in law. The girls will be joining us (Niki from PNG and Kim from Melbourne) for the weekend and it will be lovely too catch up with them again; also with Pam and Alan, who now have 4 visitors instead of 2. Think that’s all for now.

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Photos

Billabong at Camooweal
Another day at the office.

Whistling Ducks - Seaforth (QLd)
Not to be confused with Burdekin Ducks that look nothing like these.

Kinchant Dam
A good sunset changes everything (not to mention a cold beer)

Kinchant Dam
Respite from the sand-flies

Carmila Beach (Qld)
Paradise on our doorstep - again

Rockhampton Heritage Village
Some boys never stop wanting to be firemen