Cairns -> Seisia (Cape York) [THE END]

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I had decided that if I got to Cooktown and it was still raining, I was going to quit there instead of continuing to Cape York. Well, it was raining, so I waited a couple of days and it looked like it was getting better, so I went to the top (it continued to rain, but I'm glad I went anyway).

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Days 76-82 Cairns

Day 83 - Turtle Cove
Landed on a nice little beach - that I had to watch for high tide (to make sure it wouldn't 'get' me.
There's a resort at the far other end of the beach. During the day I would see a number of 'couples' walking the beach. They were all guys - but I didn't really think anything of it - call me naive or un-observant, or whatever, I found out later that it was a gay resort (the only resort between Cairns and Port Douglas).

Day 84 - Cape Tribulation
Though it is a bit away from civilization - this is a popular spot for tourist busses to bring folks to the 'wilderness'.

Day 85-87 - Cooktown
Last town before Cape York (other than Lockhart R. and Portland Roads).
Cape Trib to Cooktown is a pretty good paddle. The strong SE'erlies pushed me along quite well.
I would have to pick up enough water to last me - at least until Lockhart River (up to 11 days away). [As it turned out - I skipped Lockhart R. and Portland Roads - the water I got in Cooktown lasted me to Cape York]
While I was in Cooktown, I tried to find out info on the (strong and squirrlly) currents around Cape York - particularly Albany Pass. I tried the library (Austr. Pilots (which I have at home), other books related), asked locals, asked fishermen - no luck. I did find something from a 'net search - an article on a SKing website mentioned to do the pass at a falling tide. This sounded reasonable to me as well - when looking at a map [stay tuned for the result].

Day 88 - Cape Flattery
There were a few fishing trawlers in the moored bay. I was hoping they might let people know if a croc got me on the beach.

Day 89 - Murdoch Point
Expanisive beach - backed by mangroves, looked like ideal crocodile country.
Another rainy day.

Day 90 - Cape Melville
Saw a lot of dugongs today, also a lot of sea turtles - particullary when crossing a reef extending from an island - that I shouldn't have done - I nearly got stuck (falling tide, reef exposed, might have left me high and dry).
I heard a splash and looked around in time to see a large manta ray jump out and back into the water - impressive.

Day 91 - Flinders Island
Just off the island I stopped and talked with Pascal and Christa (in a sailboat). They are taking a number of years to sail around the world - they have a number of stories (and a website - .titom.com.ch).
After tent set up, a heavy rain started and lasted the rest of the day and night (eventually, the tent started leaking - I woke up with a few puddles inside the tent).

Day 92 - Claremont Point
Another 'croc' looking beach.
On leaving in (pre-dawn) morning, I followed the GPS chart - I was 'supposidely' skirting the outside of a reefy area at the south end of Stanley I. All of the sudden, I was in the middle of some real 'splashy' waters and scraping off rocks. I was able to navigate out of the reef (with wind and waves opposing me), back to 'sea', and, since I didn't sink in crossing Princess Charlotte Bay (39 miles) I figured I hadn't poked a hole in the bottom of the boat. (The GPS charts (Blue Chart software for the Garmin) have been amazingly accurate, but they aren't perfect).

Day 93 - Cape Sidmouth
I have been leaving a few hours before light most mornings. Especially in this area there have been a number of trawlers out fishing. I don't like to alert them to my presence (by turning on my lights) unless I have to - I don't want them thinking I'm a small boat in trouble needing assistance. Sometimes it's a real 'guessing game' in trying to figure out which way they are going (sometimes they change directions).

Day 94 - Cape Direction
Nice campsite - up a hill - good view of surrounding area.
Today I had a day of (mostly) sun - the first in a LONG time. The night I had a wonderfull sleep - with no rain, star filled sky (with many shooting stars).

Day 95 - Fair Cape
I bypassed Portland Roads and Lockhart River (didn't need water, and have decided to try and fininsh the trip quickly)

Day 96 - Cape Grenville
During todays trip - I crossed the 'shipping channel' twice. The 1st was uneventful, then, on arriving where I needed to cross back (all day I hadn't seen any ships), there were 2 ships approaching - one from each direction. Luckily, by the time I arrived at the place I wanted to cross, they had just gone by - but now I was worried - it was a 2 mile wide 'shipping channel' - to cross would take me close to half an hour, and the time between when I would first site a ship and when it would get to me was about 15 minutes. So I went full out to cross the channel. (I didn't see any more ships the rest of the day)

Day 97 - Captain Billys Landing
A Customs helicopter swooped over me & made a 2nd, closer pass. (Not sure what I'm supposed to do at this point - I wanted to acknowledge him - but didn't want him to think I was in need of help by waving. I just made myself visible (I think he sited the kayak which is why he made the 2nd pass), and when he was closest to me I kind of nodded my head at him).

Day 98 - Seisia (90 mile / 24 hour paddle - 2AM=>2AM)
My original plan for the day was to paddle to Ussher Point (setting me up for a paddle to Cape York the following day, then on into Seisia the next).
When the rains came in - about an hour after sunrise - the skys had the look of an 'all day' rain, and after a blue bottle sting to the arm - I decided to paddle all the way to Seisia (to finish the trip).
A worry was what the currents would be doing at 'Albany Pass' (just east of Cape York - passage between mainland and Albany Island).
The only info I had on the current direction was from an article I had read in a Sea Kayaking newsletter. (I should have marked up my maps prior to starting the trip - I have the Australia Pilots at home with the info I needed).
By my estimation - I would arrive at the Pass about 2 hours early - before I could use the 'outgoing tide' (as the article suggested) to push me through the pass. I planned to wait it out in a bay by the pass.
On arriving at the pass, I paddled into a rather strong rip current - heading INTO Albany Pass. My info was wrong - luckily. Had the rip been going the other direction - I couldn't have gotten into the bay I had planned to wait for the change of tide.
As it was - I was given a ride thru Albany Pass at about 6 knotts (with just a little help from my paddling).
I arrived at Seisia in the rain (small squalls in and out all night). I was so beat, I just checked the tide chart to make sure I wouldn't get 'swallowed' by the incoming tide, and quickly put up the tent and crashed (didn't even take off my wet clothing till I woke a few hours later).

Andy

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