Adelaide to Darwin and the failed boat hunt

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I'm not exactly into blogging but I figured it might be better than the old group email. This way you can come and read abit when you have time instead of being overwhelmed by my epic emails...

The Ghan called the night before I left to tell me that there was at least a 24 hour delay because of flood risks in the Port Augusta area (rains left over from cyclone Yasi) but that it might be cancelled, meaning I'd be stuck in Adelaide for a week. Luckily it was safe to leave the next day. The train ride was uneventful but nice. I was being very antisocial and didn't talk to any of the other backpackers. I spent a lot of time reading and just staring out the window, especially as the sun went down and up. The train only went as far as Katherine because of 'operational constraints' so we were pushed onto a free Kathereine river cruise and then eventually taken by bus to Darwin. I arrived in the evening and went to my hostel away from the very trashy nightclub and backpacker strip. My 'eco-friendly' backpackers considers that having a recycling bin is enough to advertise this statement. Maybe 10 years ago that was a big deal.There are lots of friendly people there though, many who work and are living in Darwin for a few months so theres a nice vibe. Darwin is hot and humid but not as bad as I thought. I spent most days walking around all day in the sun so it can't have been that bad. I spent the first 3 days walking round the worst parts of Darwin: buying last minute things for the trip and then on the failed boat hunt.

So heres the deal with the boats. I was pretty set on finding a cargo ship/barge/ work boat or something like that. Day one I go to the port in town - there is one shipping company, 'Perkins', which goes to Dili once a fortnight but havn't taken passengers for years because of huge insurance issues. Turns out most of the cargo ships leave from Broome, or get this...Brisbane, the place I just spent over a week and $400 coming from!! Either way, I think you need contacts on the inside to get a ride on a cargo ship these days. Bloody insurance! The next day I went to the other port at East Arm. I caught the bus as far as I could then started to walk the 9km to the warf but got picked up by an old man after just a few kms who drove me round to all the offices of the companies (turns out none are international), out to the wharf to check it out and then drove me back into town with a short detour to his hobby farm to chase the geese away from his paw paw trees. A little bit concerned when he pulls out a huge kitchen knife from the dashboard and starts waving it around - but he was just getting it out to cut up a ripe paw paw to keep the geese away from the ones still on the trees, and a piece for me too. It was really nice, the sweetest paw paw I've ever had! Later that day I went to all the yacht clubs and put an add up on their message board and got a reply a few hours later. The guy sounded kind of creepy and dodgy but I went to see him the next day anyway and yes he was full of shit. I spoke to him and his friends and they all confirmed that I should fly unless I was happy to wait at least 2 months. They said anyone who says any different don't know what theyre talking about or are lying. Too bad he couldn't have told me that over the phone and saved me another horrible 40 minute walk (one way) through the industrial part of Darwin getting rediculously sunburnt and swooped by birds even more evil than magpies. So then I went to an internet cafe, did some more research, became more convinced it was hopeless, found a cheapish flight to Dili and bought it. At least I was strong enough not to cave in and buy a ticket to Bali for a third of the price

Now that I had a plan I could start being a tourist so I went out to East Point which has a few nice walks and beaches. Theres a lake there where you can swim too but I've heard bogans put small crocodiles in there sometimes!? I also went to different little markets on Saturday and Sunday. On Monday it started to rain which then turned into 600mm over the next 2 days with a category 1 cyclone, Carlos. The cyclone itself was pretty lame but the rain flooded the runway and roads going to the airport so it was shut down and there was nothing to do but wait (indoors). Everyone went a little bit insane - Darwinites preparing for life without food, water and electricity for at least a week and the backpackers buying out the bottle shop and having a raging 3 day cyclone party at the hostel. Today, the day after I was meant to leave is dry and calm and as long as the cyclone doesn't turn around and come back I should be leaving tomorrow (Friday) morning, picked up from the hostel at 3:45am.

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Photos

View from the train
View from the train

The cyclone starts
Time to go inside

The hostel backyard
This is as bad as it got in the city...not so bad really

Comments

[Felicity]

Yay I found your blog! Glad to hear you got out of Darwin. I have never heard of this rumour about bogans and crocodiles! And evil birds worse than magpies can't possibly exist. xx

[MadeleineY]

A guy I met at the hostel who used to live in Darwin about 10 years ago told me, but maybe those bogans grew up and no one took over? These birds are white with yellow hooked beaks and unlike magpies who go for the top of your head or shoulders, they fly straight into your face!