Entry 13: This is Sydney

We had an extremely lucky 'mistake' with our accommodation in Sydney. Whilst everywhere is charging at least $100/night with a minimum stay of 3 nights' advance booking, we've been wrongly given a room for 10 nights at only $58/night (28 pound) including New Years Eve.....that's lower than the standard charge for this room. We like to think it's all about Karma, and following our windscreen and flat tyre, we were owed some good fortune.

We arrive late and just crash, and awake to Sydney in the morning, New Years Eve 2007....
After a late breakfast we buy some alcohol and food and fill our cool bag (Christmas pressie from Lisa and co.) ready to set up camp in the Royal Botanic Gardens in Sydney Harbour. However, we are caught unaware that our choice of viewing area for the nights' entertainment has been entirely fenced off except for one entry point; a sad sign of the times - whether it's due to security and terrorism or the corporate dollar. That one entry point is also checking for and confiscating any glass or alcohol. Added to this, we join a huge queue that has been growing, we are told, since people started entering the Gardens in the early hours of the morning.....it's now 3 in the afternoon!! The chances of getting in are slim, the opportunity of a view is unlikely, a good view - virtually non-existant....................we're gutted!!
Then Karma steps in again and Sam seems to think it's the Big Issue she bought in Melbourne.
We decide that honesty is the best policy, so we finally get to the entry point and declare to the lad that we have got 2 glasses and some booze in our cool bag. He in turn says "at least you're honest, keep them tucked away and in ya go."
Yes, that's right, we get in with our 6 cans of Gin & Tonic, 2 glasses and a bottle of fizzy pop to celebrate the New Year. The thought of not getting in has vanished - now all we need is any kind of view?
This place is absolutely jammed solid and we're wandering around aimlessly with little hope, when Sam sees a spot next to some railings about the size of a tea towel. Because its close to the railings that are keeping an area free for some food stalls Sam asks a security guard whether we can squeeze in there? He says its OK. We then proceed (with well timed and well directed little shoves) to move the barrier. We now have an area the size of 2 beach towels and one of the best views on dry land!!! At this point I'm not sure what was wider; Sydney Harbour Bridge or the grin on my face. As a sidenote, Sting has rented a boat for the night that will anchor up in the harbour for $13,000.....................we've got this view for free!! I think it's me 'walking on the moon!'
It's now just a case of waiting the next 9 hours until the clock strikes midnight.
Well that wasn't strictly true, because there's a firework display at 9pm for families with young children that lasts about 10 minutes, and that was brilliant. But New Years Eve in Sydney is all about the main event, and for anybody who saw the Millenium celebrations here on TV, will know that words cannot describe the scene once that second hand strikes 12. There was a massive hour glass erected on the Bridge with falling balls counting down each 5 minute interval before a final 10, 9, 8, ............countdown was projected onto the two large butresses at either end of the Bridge. Then night became day as the sky was lit up!
There were fireworks coming from the Bridge, from the boats, from certain areas on land, in the harbour and most spectacular of all, from the top of the skyscrapers in the city.....................It was fantastic!!!!
I took more video than photos so you'll just have to wait for our return, although as you can see there are a few on this blog. Sydney, for me, is the benchmark for New Year celebrations and could only be bettered with friends and family around. The only way to prove that however is to maybe try Time Square or Rio de Janerio and see what they have to offer. Might take a career break in 2010??

In the days following, we walk from our hostel in the nicer end of seedy Kings Cross, to Circular Quay (where the Bridge & Opera House are) most mornings which takes about 40 minutes. It takes us past Wooloomooloo with the famous 'Harry's Cafe de Wheels' parked on the roadside which is like a burger van I guess, that's reknowned for its pies and mushy peas, and has been there for years and has lots of photos fixed to the outside of famous people eating there by the old docks. Those old docks have since been converted into restaraunts and apartments, the end one of which is more modern looking than the rest, and thats where Russell Crowe lives. The walk also takes us through the Royal Botanic Gardens where flying foxes roost in their hundreds. The Gardens form a peninsular that sticks out into the harbour and during the walk as you round the corner of the peninsular (a spot called Mrs. Macquaries Chair) you are met with the magnificent view of the Opera House and Sydney Harbour Bridge. It's a walk that we will surely miss when we leave.

The highlights while we've been here include taking a two hour cruise around the harbour, which may sound a long time if you've only seen the famous part of the harbour, but those of you who have been here will know that Sydney harbour is massive and that two hours is a sneak preview.

Some, sorry, most, of the places on the harbour (and I'm talking about where people live) are unbelievable and would all have made it on the TV program 'Grand Designs'. It was interesting that one of these many places sold last year for $16.5 million and was bought by........
Mel Gibsons accountant! The owners of another place here were offered $55 million for their home and turned it down! Now that's when you know you have a desirable spot.
We've been up Sydney Tower (formerly the AMP Tower) for coffee and cake in the afternoon. Its the highest structure in the city and has fantastic panoramic views over the harbour and surrounding areas. We've taken a ferry around to Darling Harbour and visited the Sydney Aquarium as well as taking in a 3D movie at the IMAX cinema which has the largest screen in the world. We watched a movie on dinosaurs which I think you would have liked, Meg. Also had lunch here in a place called Baia, an Italian restaraunt where one Cassie West used to work. Sam tells me that the food has gone down hill a bit but I'm sure the service must have improved - the place still bears the scars of employing a Brown!!
We've had a spate of fine dining during the middle of our Sydney stay. It wouldn't normally be within a travellers budget but what the hell! Three consecutive nights included Peter Doyles on the Quay - located at the Bridge end of Circular Quay. With a table outside, we had up close views of both Bridge and Opera House and probably the best views of that part of the Harbour. The next night we ate at Wildfire which is next door but one to Peter Doyles, with views to the Opera House only, but a posher place. The last, and by no means least, was the restaraunt at the at the top of Sydney Tower called 360. As the name suggests, from here you are treated to 360 degrees viewing of Sydney Harbour and the surrounding area, as the restaraunt slowly revolves, taking 90 minutes to complete a full 360 degree turn. Without doubt the best views from a restaraunt I've ever had and probably the best meal we've had since departing.

We've taken another boat trip across the harbour, this time to visit Manly, a lovely place which has two beaches, one on the harbour side and one on the ocean side. Being only a thin strip of land that you pass through to get to 'North Head' (the north opening to Sydney Harbour), it takes only 5 minutes to walk from one beach to the other and was Sam's home during 2002 when she terrorised, I mean, lived here.
If you've been keeping up with previous blogs, you may remember I mentioned the possibility of a surfing lesson whilst in Sydney. Well unbeknown to me, Sam had booked us a private lesson at the Manly Surfing School...........it would prove to be a lesson in both surfing and survival?!:

At 13:30 we made our way to the Surf School for our 2pm lesson. There was a fairly big swell (much bigger than we had anticipated) and we did wonder whether or not the lesson for these two absolute beginners would be cancelled with some of the waves looking around 10 feet high..........................but no!
We donned our wetsuits and met Danny our 'coach' for the lesson. Up on the beach and still dry we impressed Danny with our ability to demonstrate swift moves from stomach to the crouched standing position, with the grace that perhaps only the pro's could better. Danny then took us through the different techniques we would require to get past the big breakers in order to get to a place that he referred to as 'OUT THE BACK'.................
Both me and Sam looked out to that place but our gaze was not suprisingly drawn back to those herds of untamed white horses pounding the area in between US and OUT THE BACK!!!!!
We made our way into the surf with our boards pointed directly out to sea (as instructed), we were gonna use the rip current to attempt to get out the back, something we've been previously warned to avoid when swimming on the beach; swimming incidently had been banned at this part of the beach today due to the current and swell!!
Obviously Sam, at only two foot, is first to be wiped out by the foaming thoroughbreds, although she soon recovers and we're on our way once again lying on our boards and paddling like Niagra Falls is only inches behind us. It was during this phase when it became obvious that Sam's balance was far superior to my own. Once beyond the breakers (yes, we made it) my shoulders we're feeling like a boxers in the last round. Sam was coached into position for her first wave.......a tense moment........
It was hard to tell how she got on as I lost her behind a wall of water that was now hurtling her towards the beach.
I must have slid off my board several times before I got into position, and for Danny it must have seemed like trying to teach algebra to a pre-school kid. Anyway, I was as ready as I was ever gonna be and on the command of "paddle" I set off like one of those toys kids have in the bath, with my arms going like back-to-back windmills. The wave lifted me up and for a moment I felt the exhilarating rush that surfing brings.
I could probably have stayed on my belly and enjoyed the ride, but I was here to to try and surf so it was only right that I should reward Danny's patience with an attempt at what seemed so easy back on the beach.....................standing!!
It's now when I'd love to tell you of how I stood in the crouched position, hands forward as I went through a tunnel of water that would have crushed any other mere mortal, but I can't; kneeling was as far as I got before once again I found myself underwater, except this time I was without the scuba equipment. I surfaced just in time to glimpse the next wave before being pummeled back beneath the surface. This continued for another 3 waves in which I just managed to gain sight and breath before once again losing both, it was pretty scary stuff I don't mind tellin' ya. Sam I later heard was faring slightly worse having been held underwater by several waves long enough for her lungs to yell "BREATHE" whilst common sense (something that usually deserts her) just about kept her lungs sea free.
We now have to go through the whole sequence again.................................................
After the third ride in, getting 'out the back' became what I can only describe as medieval torture and at one stage I lay exhausted on my board (rack might be more appropriate) willing for that shark attack to come and end the pain. Added to this was the humiliation of holding on to another man's foot to be towed into position, those of you that know me will laugh loudest I'm sure.
I began to think that both mine and Sam's stubborness to not give in would result in our lifeless corpses being washed up on to shore. I'm ashamed to say I checked my watch twice to see how much of the hour remained. I had decided at 2.55 that my next wave would be my last and I needed to stay on it long enough to get close to shore. Unable to muster the energy to try to stand, I body-boarded all the way in, and I actually enjoyed it.
We both dragged ourselves and our boards back to terra firma, just glad to be alive. We trudged back to the surf school and were congratulated on our efforts. I'm sure Danny was aware that we would have engaged in conversation if we'd found it at all possible.
Once back I made a quick beeline to the showers where I almost vomited due to the intolerance that anybody's stomach would naturally have to that much salty water. Sam was sporting an already hefty bruise from her ankle strap and we spent the next few hours collapsed on the sand watching the experts. It was the hardest 50 minute workout that I've ever had to endure, but we both agreed we were glad to have done it and it probably wouldn't stop us doing it again. For the record, Sam did make it to the standing position, for which I have to congratulate her. Joe, I can hear you cheering from here, but in a true sportsmanship gesture I've DEMANDED our next challenge will be golf......and Teflon will be victorious!!

Following our near-death experience in the Manly tsunami, we headed inland for a few days. Our first destination was a date with 3 sisters.......... at the Blue Mountains. We arrived in the afternoon and checked into our hostel, we then proceeded to drive around, stopping at numerous lookouts with names like Eaglehawk, Devil's Hole (hmm!) and Echo Point. The Blue Mountains are another World Heritage Site and get their name from the mist given off from the eucalyptus forests which creates a bluish haze through the valleys. The views are stunning and the expanse of some of the valleys are vast. Hundreds of metres below you can hear the constant buzz of the cicadas, amazing that an insect that size can make such a racket.
The next day we did one of the many walks the Blue Mountains offer. These range from 1 to 5+ hour treks of hard, medium or low grade (difficulty). Our choice of route took in all aspects; we first took the 'Skyway' which is a cablecar trip (with glass floor) across to Echo Point, where at one stage you hang suspended over the forest canopy some 750 feet below. A twenty minute walk then takes you around to the 3 Sisters. The 3 Sisters is the most famous rock formation in the Blue Mountains. As they stand from left to right, I named them (purely on height) Tabatha, Cassandra and Samantha after 3 infamous sisters I know............oh! and there's even a little Tegan (Tab & Richi's daughter) on the end!!
It was here we went through a stone arch to begin our descent into the Jamison Valley. This descent consists of 861 (sometimes extremely steep and very uneven) steps, and is not a place to break an ankle or develop chest pain. A little way down gets you to Honeymoon Bridge which gives access to the first sister and a well earned rest. Once at the bottom of the steps we walked the 'Federal Pass', a well-trodden path that we shared with a rather large lizard for a while. This pass meanders through temperate rainforest as well as the dry open eucalyptus forest. Gaps in the foliage reveal the majestic sandstone cliffs (that we walked the edge of earlier) to the right and the valley and lower canopy to the left. A couple of hours finally led us to the scenic railway which was our choice of getting back to the top. After almost 4 hours of walking it's a far more sensible option than returning to the start of those 861 steps. Plus the fact that we couldn't resist the opportunity to take a ride on the world's steepest funicular railway at 52 degrees gradient - going up or down is not for the faint-hearted.
With our mini-adventure complete, and limbs aching from surfing and walking, it was time to head in a north-easterly direction to sample the analgesic properties of the Hunter Valley vineyards as we were booked on a wine tasting tour the next day.
Now, as most of you know, Sam likes a wine.......! - but me, well I couldn't tell a bottle of Dom Perignon from a bottle of milk, and up to now, couldn't really give a Castlemaine XXXX. But I have to say, I thoroughly enjoyed our day's wine tasting, that took us to several boutique wineries where the passion for and knowledge of the humble grape were fascinating. After tasting over 30 wines, the aches had gone and the newly gained knowledge was complete. I now know my verdehlo from my semillon and my shiraz from my chambourcin. I've discovered a liking for dessert wine but most importantly I would still unashamedly swap them all for the cold bottle of milk.

After the Hunter Valley, we headed back to Sydney for what I've always considered should be a Bank Holiday in England.....my birthday.

Now we return to Sydney on the 12th, and unbeknown to me, Sam had booked a pre-birthday surprise that consisted of a Seaplane (that's the one that takes off and lands on water) flight around Sydney Harbour. It was fantastic. What's more, as luck would have it, I was able to sit up front next to the pilot.....just superb! Didn't think I would better the view from Sydney Tower, but this certainly did. From here we returned the hire car (another delivered back intact), and then came the second surprise; our accommodation for the next 2 nights would be the Shangri-La Hotel, Sydney Harbour, in a Premium Harbour Room, where the bathroom is bigger than most of the hostel rooms we've stayed in and I reckon you could fit at least 6 of our campervans in the living room area which was 80% windows. It's absolute luxury and would mean I awoke on my birthday to views of the Bridge and the Opera House, both of which would feature highly on the day, as in the morning we would be doing the Bridge Climb, and in the afternoon seeing a show at the Opera House. I won't dwell on the birthday thing, just make sure its in all your diaries for next year.......!
Firstly the Bridge Climb, which including the formalities and safety chit-chat, takes around 3 hours. We made our way to the top of the Bridge with 10 others in the group, plus one guide who stopped us periodically for facts and photographs. There are no personal cameras or belongings allowed on the Bridge at all, except for sunglasses which are clipped to the jumpsuits we all had to wear, and the odd ring in case anyone wishes to propose, of which there's been hundreds - including one refusal and a $55k ring dropped and never found..... The views from the top are fantastic, helped by the weather - 27 degrees and sunny.
I know any of you could look up these details about the Bridge if you wanted to but I can't think why you would, so I'll include a few interesting facts. With 1300 men working on the Bridge every day (most on just 1 pound a day) it took 8 years to build, with the south side joining the north on 7 August 1930.
The idea of a link between the south and the north sides of the harbour was suggested by one of the convicts who was part of the early penal colony. He was sent from the Motherland for fraud of all things, and was an architect by profession. It would be approximatley 100 years later before the plans were drawn - great foresight though.
Someone who overlooked Sydney, ironically, was one Capt James Cook. He sailed straight past thinking it was just an inlet, and not the massive harbour that it is. The distance around the harbour (if you measured all the bays) to get from the north side of the entrance to the south, is approximately 550 miles.
Anyway, back to the Bridge - 53000 tons of steel was used including 6 million rivets with about 10000 dropped into the sea below....who was counting?!
The Bridge is modelled on Hell's Gate Bridge in Pennsylvania, USA, that got it's name because it's painted red. Sydney Harbour Bridge on the other hand has its own colour - Sydney Harbour Bridge Grey - and get this, it takes 14 years to paint (remember - 8 years to build) at a cost of $49m.
The pylons (the 4 granite structures - 2 at either end of the Bridge) do not support the Bridge at all, and are there purely for aesthetic reasons. The designer thought that the coathanger-like frame lacked something....
Unbelieveably, only 16 men died during its construction - 10 of which were on the ground, and 6 from the Bridge itself. With no harnesses, heavy boots and weather conditions, it's hard to believe the Bridge was safer than the ground. Today the Bridge has 80 full-time employees.
Vincent Kelly - riveter (and coincidentally a high-diver), is the only person to have fallen from the Bridge and survived. He fell 50 metres from the road level, and when interviewed he said in less than 3 seconds he knew he had to enter the water feet first, and did so, breaking an ankle, leg and ribs. For the feat, he received a one-of-a-kind medal.

We left the Bridge and walked 2 minutes to the Australian Hotel, one of Sydney's, and indeed Australia's, oldest pubs, where we had lunch - gourmet pizzas being their speciality. A quick freshen up before the Opera House where we saw the 'Grand Cirque', 2 hours of circus acrobatics - Taz, you would have loved the gymnastics.....
From here we left Circular Quay to have a meal at Doyles. For any of you that saw Billy Connolly's exploits though Oz, he came here, Sydney's longest running (123 years) restaurant, and sits right on the beach at Watson's Bay - a beautiful spot! The day had changed dramatically, not that we minded as we sat outside undercover and watched the electrical storm. It had been a memorable birthday.

The next, and our final, day in Sydney, meant we reluctantly checked out of the Shangri-La, and back to our normal basic accommodation. For our final night, we met up with a few of Sam's friends, Simon & Nic and Carrie. We enjoyed your company guys, thanks for joining us on our last night. It was good to meet you all, and I know Sam was made up that she got to see you all again.
Oh, and Carrie - there are benefits to arriving at the airport early! We were initialy refused travel to New Zealand when we went to check-in, because we hadn't booked our flight out of New Zealand at that stage. So we then had to organise our flight from NZ to Bangkok before we could check-in. It was something we were completely unaware of.

So our time in Australia is over. 9 weeks is the longest we'll spend in any one country, yet it only seems like yesterday that we met Tina at the airport in Perth. It's an incredible country, and most Aussies that we've met say we've seen more of it than they have. For a first timer, I reckon I've had a pretty good 'walkabout'. Sam, visiting for her 7th time, has included a lot of things she hasn't done before, and we'll both leave with a lot of good memories and hundreds of photos.....
We've included more on this blog than any other so far.
My favourite part of Australia? It's impossible to say, as you cannot compare the mysterious beauty of Uluru, to the saturated wonder of the Great Barrier Reef. You have the rugged coastline of the Twelve Apostles and the tranquil shallows of Whitehaven Beach. What I do know, is there is a quiet satisfaction to be had, day or night, when sipping a coffee or beer whilst sat in Circular Quay with Sydney Harbour Bridge to your left and the Opera House to your right.........

But no more daydreaming, it's time for some adrenaline....New Zealand - adventure capital of the world.

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