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Published: October 24th 2009
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First of all, must issue a disclaimer: Tom had a really tough time downloading the pics for this blog, so they are a little jumbled. However, we are trusting in the intelligence and discernment of our readers to figure it out! One of the greatest things about this trip has been the ability to stop whenever we want. On the way from Durango to Santa Fe we saw a sign that said "Aztec Ruins National Monument". This park contains more examples of ancestral Puebloan buildings, and extended the thread that began with Mesa Verde a bit more. (the term Aztec is a misnomer, but the term is still used since it is known as that). We were glad that we stopped. One of the things we've missed most on this trip has been Mexican food. We decided to hold off until we got to the Southwest rather than have a disappointing experience. You can imagine, then, our excitement when we went to dinner our first night in Santa Fe. We got an education in red and green chile sauces, learned about flat enchiladas, and ate our first soipapillas with honey. On Thursday we drove a short ways out of the
city to the small town of Chimayo, since a friend told us that this is the source of the "world's best chile powder." It's also known for its weaving. There is a small church and santuario there that is known as the Lourdes of the New World, but for its dirt rather than water. Apparently thousands of pilgrims inundate this rural church on Good Friday to walk the Stations of the Cross. All very picturesque, but we were there for the chile! Adjacent to the church is a small restaurant named Leona's that was in "Roadfood", so of course we timed our visit so we could eat lunch there. The food was wonderful, simple but fresh and flavorful, but best of all we got to meet Leona herself, chat with her, and get her to sign our book. She had never read what the Sterns had written about her, so it was kind of cute to see her reaction. Quite a lady....there were pictures of her as a Pan Am flight attendant back in the 60's, and of her on some of the charter flights to bring our guys in and out of Viet Nam. When we talked about it,
she giggled and said that she started out intending to become a nun. I laughed with her and said that her spiritual gift seemed to be that of hospitality. Once again, the people that we've met on this trip are what's given it so much warmth and texture. We spent part of the afternoon walking around the historic downtown Plaza. Had another wonderful dinner. Today we went to the museum at the Palace of the Governors, and had a wonderful guided tour. Adjacent to that is the brand new Museum of New Mexico history, and we spent a good bit of time there, also. There are so many great museums here that it's difficult to choose one(s). For lunch we had our first Frito pie experience at the Five & Dime, recommended to us by several people. A Frito pie consists of Fritos (duh) covered with chile, grated cheese, and optional onions and jalapenos. We were told that it's not a real Frito pie unless it's constructed and consumed in the bag. The Five & Dime advertises that it sells over 30,000 of these a year, and judging from the number of people we saw having this for lunch, that's
probably about right. At 2:00 pm Tom dropped me off at the Santa Fe School of Cooking for a class titled "Chile Amour". Combination of lecture, demo, hands-on, and best of all, consumption. Made corn tortillas, roasted and peeled green chiles, and learned how to make both red and green chile sauces. Was alot of fun, and Tom's already planning on how he can incorporate come of these sauces into his barbeque dishes. I'm glad to know what to do with all those chiles and chile powder that we bought in Chimayo. Our ristra is hanging from the coathook in our backseat in order to protect it, making our car look even more like the Clampett-mobile. He snuck back up there and took several pictures of me in the class without me knowing it, and surprised me after class. Yes, we know....this destination has been even more about the food than usual for us. Tom said that all these eating experiences caused "his mind to turn, his stomach churn, and his behind burn." I couldn't stop laughing when he said that. Tomorrow we're leaving for Williams, Arizona and the Grand Canyon. Hope all is well with you and yours. Tom
& Nancy
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