From the tropical bliss of Bora Bora we flew via LA and an unusually friendly US immigration experience (the official joked that I looked like a terrorist - at least I think it was a joke) into Sante Fe, New Mexico and a particularly cold western American winter. This marked the start of the eagerly awaited (especially by me) skiing leg of the trip. As Vic remarked on the pretty adobe buildings, I was more interested in the record snow that has been dumped across western USA so far this winter. Apparently we have La Nina to thank, also responsible for the unusually hot and dry weather we had in New Zealand. Thanks darlin'. In Sante Fe we stayed in a converted adobe farm house from 1800 as we did in our next destination, Taos. The mountain outside Sante Fe was small but there was some decent tree-skiing to get the weedy pins back in shape. Taos, a slightly bigger area, had some steep chutes for those willing to take a short hike and my take-it-gently-until-I'm fit went straight over the cornice as the lure of the recently dumped powder proved too much. After a few days in each of these
pleasant places, we headed north to Colorado via an impromptu stop in Durango due to a huge storm which forced us off the road. Once the storm had passed we got back on the road and made it to our intended destination of Telluride, a historic mining town (apparently it was once the wealthiest town in America) set at the end of an impressive canyon now famous for its steep skiing. By the concentration of "realty agents" selling 10 million dollar lodges the town appears to be undergoing a renaissance, and certainly has a high fur-factor of 8/10, versus say Zermatt on 9. We had 5 days days of good skiing here, although this was long enough to ski what was a pretty limited mountain unless you have a mogul fetish. Next Crested Butte, duct-tape factor 9/10.
We were totally stoked at this little mining town with its thriving community, and even more so at the plentiful chutes on the mountain above. It was also the friendliest ski 'resort ' we have ever been to and it wasn't long before I was picked up by a local mountain goat on telemark skis who was keen to show off his
mountain where telemarkers and beards are the norm. I even met a guy here who had skied Glencoe although despite his hardiness he seemed close to tears as recounted the horrifying experience. While a small mountain, Crested Butte has some of the most challenging skiing I've ever done and has been our favourite ski destination so far. We could have easily stayed here for a couple of months, but Utah and the world's most famous powder called.
On route to Salt Lake City we spent a couple of days over Valentines Day in Utah's stunning national parks of canyons, mesas, buttes, pinnacles and arches. It was well romantic. Downtown Salt Lake is not. If it weren't for the spectacular mountains surrounding it, this place would make Milton Keynes look characterful. Sadly there was another tragic shooting at an American university at around this time. The response in the media has been incredible, with calls for concealed weapons to be allowed on university campuses. At the University of Utah they are already allowed. It really is the wild west, giving us the feeling we've travelled in time as well as space. Meanwhile alcohol sales are restricted. Just as well they
have their priorities right. We are now staying near Park City (30 miles from Salt Lake) for our three weeks in Utah and have been joined by Vic's Mum and her husband, and brother. As it has been a few days since the last snow we spent the first few days here exploring the nearby resorts (Canyons, Deer Valley and Park City) which are of the family variety, cruising around on the immaculate "corduroy" and enjoying the sun. It has been Presidents' Week so everywhere will have been pretty busy but the Canyons resort was like a war zone, the pistes littered with bodies. Deer Valley was a bit quieter with its country-club in the mountains image. It has to be the flashiest resort I have ever been to, and while it may not have the finesse of the Swissies, Hummers, heated car parks and collagen implants are the norm. There is also a disturbing number of fur-trimmed all-in-one ski suits. I was a terrorist once again. This is undoubtedly a 10/10 fur factor resort and I'll give a stuffed marmot to anyone who can find a furrier one.
Yesterday I hit legendary Alta for the day for a
reconnaissance mission ahead of back-to-back storms which are due to replenish the powder over the weekend. Certainly a gnarley mountain and I'm looking forward to getting back on it when there's a metre of fresh powder.
The snow has arrived, and it's falling deep and dry!
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