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Published: April 12th 2010
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9th & 10th April Bryce Canyon National Park to Capitol Reef National Park After a chilly night where Jack ended up in bed with us and he and Jonathan stole all the covers (though i think Jonathan may argue otherwise) breakfast was in the beast and then the open road was calling. Again, the contrasting landscapes astounded us. Altitudes reached 7700 feet with yet more snow. Then there was
Hells Backbone, a rather intimidating stretch of narrow road with plenty of switchbacks and sheer drops on either side. The perspective of where the front right wheel is when you're sat up high in the passenger seat, remember we're driving on the right hand side of the road, is decidedly warped. There were a few times where it felt as if we were driving through midair.
We got a great pitch at the campsite, with free firewood and lots of grass for Jack to kick his ball around. After a BBQ tea, we unfortunately had to leave the fire and come in for movie night again because the wind was just too strong.
Saturday was a day of walking (well hill climbing to be more precise). We went up then
down and then up and down and then up and down again! I had my little rucksack with the water and provisions, which was great because it got lighter as the day went on. Jonathan, however, had Jack in his rucksack (it was a proper baby carrier one before anyone calls social services) so his remained heavy all day. I did try to make him feel better by saying I'd carried Jack for nine months and for the past six months, but I don't think he was having any of it. We did a couple of stunning walks back to back, the Cohab Canyon Trail and the Hickman Bridge Trail. The Cohab Canyon walk took us high up above the campsite and into a hidden canyon, through which we followed the wash through changing stone walls, (sandstone, whitestone and lava rock) out the other side to Highway 24. Crossing over the highway and the Fremont River took us to the start of the second walk, a hilly but again beautiful trail to the huge natural Hickman Bridge, 133 feet wide and 125 feet high. It was really interesting to learn that the hills around us had once been sand dunes,
larger than those in the Sahara, had then turned to stone and were now turning back into sand again. They say that second to broken/twisted ankles, the most dangerous thing in Capitol Reef NP is the rattlesnake. It wasn't a rattlesnake but when the snake did cross our path on the way home it certainly made us jump! We also saw buzzards, lizards, deer and what we think was a prairie dog but it was moving too fast to really tell. It was back to the campsite for a sleep for me and Jack and a catch-up on the movie he slept through last night for Jonathan.
The afternoon brought with it a discovery of pie! Next door to the campsite is Gifford Farmhouse, an example of a mormon settlers cottage from 1908, alongside of which was a small store selling local homemade goods. Amongst the chutneys, aprons and quilting were icecreams and pies - apple, blueberry, peach, cherry and blackberry. An apple one was duly purchased and Jonathan said it was the best apple pie he's ever had (believe me, he knows what he's talking about when it comes to apple pie). Once again the wind scuppered our
plans for a campfire and it was an early night.
We're both of the opinion that so far, Capitol Reef is our favourite NP. It has all the beauty of the others but none of the crowds and we'd thoroughly recommend it.
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