Capitol Reef: In Which the Author has Dinner and Desert...

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Wednesday, August 25, 2009
In Which the Author hits the Cathedral Valley, Utah



Camping alone at a pull-off off of a ridge road in the Fishlake National Forest, Utah, I’m clicking away on the keyboard in the dark tent. I keep hearing strange noises, animal-like noises, at the truck, which is only parked 5 feet away from the tent, but Sophie sleeps on, exhausted, and I’m too tired to be too alarmed. The noises stem from the truck, which is odd, as the engine has been shut off for hours. I made a few “whooping” noises (high-pitched grunts) and shined the flashlight around, but to no avail. Oh well, whatever it is doesn’t seem to be canoodling around the tent, so whatever…

When I awoke early (probably around 8 a.m.), I surveyed the campsite, which was a nice, open area on the northwestern side of Capital Reef National Park, snapping a few self-portraits and throwing the stick for Sophie. I had a “camping epiphany,” realizing that what I enjoy about traveling/camping is the fact that interesting items/scenes can occur at any time, and often do. This, as opposed to, say, going to a concert which starts at 7 p.m.—one already knows at which time the “spectacles” will start. What I learned this morning—there were noises last night (it wasn’t the truck’s engine settling). Some conniving (probably mice or rats—rodents of some kind) had somehow gotten into the remnants of Sophie’s food, leaving a ¼-inch black turd as evidence. This was the noise—various rodents squeezing themselves through various truck parts to gain access. I was glad that I had followed protocol for a “clean camp,” having locked up all food in the back, having the bin lids on the food, pots and pans, etc. I only had to wash Sophie’s bowl really well…

I was totally psyched to be so relaxed and alone in this remote environment, and was happy to take the “road less traveled” by descending the 10 miles on this Forest Service road and into Capitol Reef National Park from the “non-traditional” way. The dirt road was a lengthy one as well, going at least 40 miles. Forgoing breakfast, I stuffed the tent, unfurled, into the back to the truck, loaded up Sophie (she knows the routine by now, but sometimes stands, languidly staring at me, until I point to the truck’s interior), and continued downward into the valley.

This 3.5 hour remote drive turned out to be one of the most memorable and pleasant of the entire trip. By traveling the back road, I saw only 3 other vehicles, one of which was a construction worker truck containing two men who were in the process of grading the road (it probably gets the “once-over” a couple of times a year—the little rain that is produced in these dry areas wreak havoc on the roads). The other was seen driving way far in the distance, and the third was driving 3 miles in, just north of Caineville, Utah, on Hwy. 24.
Another reason for the “props” of the drive—the huge natural sculptures and bizarre desert environment…

Dropping a few thousand feet in elevation on the first 10 miles of the Forest Service Road, it was excellent to view distinct natural occurrences of both landscape and flora (plant life). I was able to travel, in one hours’ time to the Canyon floor, from lush Aspen and pine forest down to harsh, ultra-dry actual desert. As a bonus, the sculpted rocks, often 10 - 50 miles away, could be viewed from eye-level to base down the winding up-and-down twisty road.

I was mesmerized by the desert; the sun was bright and baking hot; Joshua trees set against the dry, brown landscaped framed shots excellently. The Cathedral Reef (100 miles long; 10-15 miles wide; est. 1971) came more into view as I reached the base of the canyon, and I passed, seriously, out in the middle of nowhere, an entrance sign to the National Park. I also encountered a new driving condition, the mostly hard-packed dirt and rock road was often now replaced with thick sand, having in most cases been produced in low laying areas by water in creeks/flash flood zones. I “let the tool do the work” by hitting the 100 foot long sand at 30 miles an hour, picking my foot off the gas, loosely letting the steering wheel blast through.
One advantage of “big ticket” items such as large natural-rock formations is that they can be first viewed (and photographed) from far away. Then, since trails and roads were created around these objects, in a certain period of time (often 15 minutes to 1 hour), one finds themselves in close proximity to the object, and can then decide if further investigation is warranted. Such is the case here, and I was able to view and photograph the various monoliths and natural wonders, such as the Temples of the Sun and Moons. I by-passed a promising short side turn-off option to the “Gypsum Sinkhole,” and 15 minutes later lamented out loud to myself, “Aww…I wanted to see a Gypsum Sinkhole on this trip!” However, later I was rewarded with more gypsum, this time in the form of a 35 foot wide and 20 foot tall “gypsum glass mound”.

The heat left and utter remoteness and seclusion of the area left me in a bit of a dizzying position. We took a short hike, bushwhacking through the desert, with its numerous cacti and sticky shrubs and rocks to the base of a huge cathedral, and I blew Sophie’s mind by blasting her name to the 1000 foot wall, and having it echo back seconds later.

Arriving on Hwy 24, I headed east for 40 miles to Hanksville (the junction of 24 and 95). From here, I had a choice; I could take the quicker, more convenient route, heading north on 24 to I-70, then quickly jumping over to Arches National Park. Filling my tank in Hanksville (I’ve learned to get gas whenever possible, as soon as my tank is only ½ full), I headed south on a “scenic desert byway” through the southern part of the San Rafael Desert. This huge “u-shaped” road drops southeast for a 100 miles, then, south of Blanding, makes a direct turn north, passing the Manti La Sal National Forest, up to Canyonlands National Park, and then on to Moab and Arches National Park.

There was the occasional RV and “fast, white pick-up truck,” but otherwise, the road as beautiful and desolate. Large, church-like rock structures, miles in length and often looking like roman/Greek structures of old, revealed themselves under the noon sun. The desert landscape’s water has to go somewhere, and 60 miles in, there’s Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. 5 cars are parked around the water, but I don’t see any boats or people.

I stop off at national Bridges National Monument, driving the 10 miles in, skirting the $10 entry fee, and driving the 17 mile 1-way road loop, viewing 3 natural bridges/arches in the proces.

Then, it's on to Canyonlands National Park...

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Photos

Capitol Reef Valley Drive
How did these rocks manage to stay on top?

Fishlake National Forest Campsite Trash
Cans are burned, as it aides in the (still slow) decomposition process.

Capitol Reef Valley Drive
Desert Sophie

Capitol Reef Valley Drive
Road detail

Capitol Reef Valley Drive
Entrance sign at nothern end of park

Capitol Reef Valley Drive
Cliche rear-view shot

Capitol Reef Valley Drive
View from rim