Capital Reef, Utah: In Which the Author Heads to Capital Reef National Park


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August 28th 2009
Published: August 28th 2009
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Bryce National Park to Capital Reef National Park


Tuesday August 25, 2009 9:00 to 11:00 p.m.
In Which the Author Heads to Capital Reef National Park


After reorganizing the bins yet again, Sophie and I packed our tent; I was a little bittersweet about leaving Bryce, as I found the place very satisfying. It’s probably good that I wasn’t able to do many serious hikes/backcountry camping, as it left me wanting to return with Jennifer at some time in the future. I left a bin and some plastic containers at the cool “Leave Something, Take Something” spot on the campground host’s table. The New Yorkers gave a quick wave and were off in their Mustangs (we never did continue our conversation last night over their campfire—instead I worked on the massive amount of Bryce pictures).

I headed over to the General Store at Sunrise Point to (yet again) work on more text and pictures to the blog posted earlier. Being my last day, combined with slow internet connection, the process too extremely long (I worked on the map for over a half an hour—note to www.travelblog.org - your mapping feature sucks!). The pictures, overall, were okay, but it’s really hard to truly capture the space and colors in Bryce. When I do return, it will be with a much nicer camera.

I prepared for a hike from Bryce Point, thinking of taking the “Hat Trail” on the “Under the Rim” section of the northern section of the park. I got to the spot, arranged the car as to maximize the shade for Sophie, placing her sleeping bag anchored with rocks on the outside cab of the truck. I got my map, jacket, water, camera, and flashlight (ya’ never know…) and set off. After viewing the rim area a few minutes, I descended down a short way into the canyon. The “Below the Rim” trail looked as if it, at least at the beginning, was too close to the top of the rim, weaving its way through a pine forest. I wanted to get down into the canyon as quickly as possible, so I doubled back to the trail’s other fork, the “Peek-a-boo” trail. I started down that trail (it’s about a 4 mile loop) when the dark clouds that were once on the horizon quickly poised themselves to assault us hikers with rain. More ominously, thunder rippled through the air. I so wanted to see the canyon, but not at the cost of getting my ass fried and making the local news (well, on a station 50 miles away, at least). Bryce only loses about 1 person a year, which is an amazingly low number, considering the narrow rock trails and sometimes loose gravel. Falls and lightning, however, are the usual suspects (I wonder which column officials would place someone who had first been struck by lightning, then fell over the side?).

As the hiking option was now out, and it was getting late (probably about 3 p.m.), I jumped back into the car. Heading out, I knew that I wasn’t going to make it the 17 miles south to Rainbow Point, so instead I just took a left to the Inspiration Point/Paria View, just a mile south. There were a few people leaving, and then I had the whole place to myself. A rebel trail just over the brown, wooden fence took me to a thin strip of rocks that rest right out over the canyon. My heart was beating very quickly, and I started intently at my $4.00 thrift store Timberland boots to do the right thing—walks smooth and steadily towards the edge. About 10 feet away, I switch safety methods by planting both hands and feet and inching forward. The adrenaline was rushing as I snapped a self-portrait and did the ol’ “Hey! My boots are hanging near the edge of a huge-ass precipice!” thing as well.

Picking up my last assortment of Bryce Canyon trash (cigarette butts, fruit bar wrappers, etc.), I left the park, turning right (east!) on Hwy 12. On the recommendation of a hiking Bryce and Zion Parks book that I had gotten from the Chicago Public Library (I renewed all 10 of my books via my internet air card from the exit of Yellowstone). Only 5 miles out of the Park’s entry road (and bordering the park—some features of Bryce can be seen from the northeast side as well), I came to Mossy Cave hike. This short hike did not allow dogs, but I felt that Sophie was so good in Bryce that she deserved a longer hike than our numerous walks, so I took her along. The short uphill featured some good red rocks and hoodoos (thin, tall and striking rock features prominent in Bryce and surrounding areas), a fast-moving small creek (spring fed in part from the cave), two creek crossings and access to the water, and a waterfall (besides the ones in Yellowstone, it’s the first that I’ve seen).

After the hike, which took about 45 minutes, I continued to head northeast on Scenic By-way 12. The scenery the entire 4 hours that we were on the road was great. The canyons, meadows, and rocks had the benefit of the sun, giving me a great opportunity to take the cliché “Hey, I’m driving down a nice road and will take a picture out the front windshield for you” pictures that often accompany roadtrips. Forgoing the Kodachrome State Park (because of the inevitable entry fee and the fact that I had just really started driving), we drove through the towns of Escalante and Boulder, Utah, through Calf Creek Recreation Area and deeper and higher into my third unit of the Dixie National Forest. We climbed, in a 30 minute uphill drive, higher and higher, through pine forests, then aspen forests, to the rocky summit of almost 10,000 feet. To not stop and camp was hard, as the setting sun was brightly lighting a glorious basin.
At the intersection of Hwy. 24, we turned left (West) circumventing the Capital Reef National Park’s main entrance, heading up through a series of 4 small towns. At Loa, we turned north on Hwy. 72; the road split, with no clear sign as to which road was to Freemont and which was the National Forest. By chance, two neighbors were chatting. “Doc,” a dentist had no idea as to my intended route, even after driving his ATV 12 feet from the edge of his driveway and over to the truck to view the road atlas. I had to circle my intended stop with a pen; the Doc could not believe that there was back road National Forest dirt-road access in the northern section of the “Cathedral Valley” in Capital Reef. The sun was very close to setting, so I took off up 72, again entering the Fishlake National Forest and turning at the appropriate dirt road (the sign said “Cathedral Valley 14 miles”. Driving up the well-maintained (no “washboard”) road, I passed large deposits of lava rock, many roadside yellow flowers and sage, an excellent valley, and a tight aspen forest to arrive at my current position—totally alone and isolated from people and other campers on a mountain top.
The sun was setting, and both Sophie and I were tired (I was also relieved as to not have to drive anymore today. With the scenery serving as a distraction, in addition to many, many tight, curvy roads, some with massive drop-offs just off the both sides of the road’s shoulders, I sometimes realized that my intense forward stare and death-grip on the wheel required a lot of concentration—hard to come by for someone not having to think too much on this month-long road trip).
The sun was down, so I quickly set up the tent. Even at this high elevation, the temperature was 60 degrees for a while, but while eating my peanut butter sandwiches (I had no energy to cook), it quickly dropped down to 54, so I put the rain fly on. I’ve heard some small animal crunching on the gravel, but if Sophie doesn’t react, I don’t worry about it.

My plan is to wake up, make coffee, and drive the remaining 8 miles down to the Cathedral Valley. We’ll meet back up with 24 eventually, and then take 95 south to 191 north, hitting possible Canyonlands National Park, Moab, and Arches National Park.

It’s been exactly 30 days since I left Chicago (4 days since dropping off Jennifer, who made it back to work in Chicago). Sophie (the dog) and I have spent 28 of the days in a tent, one night in a van, and one 2-hour nap in the car. I’ve not seen any television or movies, nor have I gotten my hands on any papers (except one 4-day old USA Today newspaper about 2 weeks ago). My only news source (which I gloss over, as the computers running time = burning electricity) has been Yahoo’s homepage. I have to say that I don’t miss such things much. The blog, which is the most extensive writing project that I’ve worked on thus far, is approaching 31,000 words, and I hope to catch up on the “Jennifer section” soon, but in the meantime, I’ll try and keep updating readers on my current travels (although, once leaving eastern Colorado, I doubt there’ll be much to comment on…) Being on this trip has reminded me of the numerous great places and massive spaces, which we are fortunate to have and freely take part in…

Blogging out—Dave and Sophie



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Flower detail


28th August 2009

Great pix
Hey Dave, the pix of Bryce are A-1 beautiful. What a colorful place. Thanks man, you and Sophie stay safe

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