Oregon Coast and Columbia Gorge

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Oregon Coast and Columbia Gorge, May 17-30, 2011, field notes from the journal of guide Donald Lyon.

Day 1 (May 17) Arrivals in Portland: The plan was to photograph the Columbia Gorge and Oregon Coast at optimum times—i.e. late spring with the water falls in full throttle and when the off shore breezes would bring high waves and dramatic clouds to the coast. We had no way of knowing how well we would succeed! Oregon is famous for rain but today was picture perfect. Your humble correspondent (YHC, aka Don Lyon) had arrived the night before and was in position to pick up Scott Allen (Cheyenne, WY) when he called on his cellphone. We stopped by the Marriott for Frank Mertes(Oakton, VA) who arrived the night before. The three of us checked into Troutdale’s Comfort Inn and then headed up the Columbia River to have lunch at the Charburger—an institution in Cascade Locks overlooking river traffic. The mural on the bulwark of the bridge portrays local events from the “Bridge of the Gods” (a local Indian legend) to Lewis and Clark’s early 19th C Expedition to Steamboats and Electricity generation. The current steel bridge is also called Bridge of the Gods. We toured the Fish Hatchery at Bonneville Dam and photographed a 10’ sturgeon and giant rainbow trout through a glass window—looking like a natural habitat. YHC then left Scott and Frank to take tours and sightsee at the dam while he picked up Anne Eastwood (South Pasadena, CA) at the airport, returning at 4:30 pm. 3000 Chinook salmon had passed through the locks the day before. After a short respite at the Troutdale Comfort Inn we headed for Edgefield for photography, then dinner. Edgefield was the county poor farm in the 1920’s, build to be as self sustaining as possible. The McMennamin brothers turned it into an event center with restaurants, spas, winery, brewery and much more—especially the quirky and clever decorations and murals which we photographed as well as the beautiful gardens. Dinner was a wonderful experience as well—especially as we were celebrating Anne’s birthday that day. Many happy returns Anne.

Day 2 Columbia Gorge to Seaside: Slightly overcast with promise of clearing as we departed our cozy rooms after breakfast at 7AM. We drove up river to Multnomah Falls—in full shade as usual. YHC donned his yellow slicker and red umbrella to hike up to the bridge than spans the 620’ falls at midpoint while the others shot up the scene from below. Another photo workshop was present and they were delighted to have a colorful model as well. Everyone worked their way up to the bridge and found many wonderful scenes including the lush ferny vegetation. By 9:30 AM we were picking our way through rush hour traffic on the freeway through downtown Portland. We drove Highway 30 along the Willamette River to its confluence with the Columbia. The houseboats with the new rusty arched bridge






are at Sauvie Island on the Willamette. Bt 11 AM we were photographing the Longview Bridge at Rainier. On the west side of town we pulled into a timber transfer station where giant iron jawed vehicles, like huge insects, were loading or unloading log trucks-- a full truck load in one “bite.” The Longview Bridge is in the background. At Astoria’s 39th Street Pier we lunched in the Rogue Brewpub located in the old Bumble Bee Tuna cannery. In the early 20th C. there were more than 40 canneries here. Young male California Sea Lions were lounging like arrogant teenagers on the nearby docks. Downtown murals depicted cannery life much like in a John Steinbeck novel. The soaring Astoria-Megler Bridge was now the object of our attention—yellow pilot boat going out to guide a freighter through the hazardous mouth of the river. We drove up Coxcomb Hill for the view of the mouth of the Columbia and the 1926 Astoria Column that relates the opening of the west by Lewis and Clark. Astoria is named after John Jacob Astor who started the NW Fur Company in competition with Hudson’s Bay Company. The Youngs Bay Bridge and the Lewis and Clark River Bridge cross the estuary south of Astoria -- both were designed by Conde B. McCullough whose name we would know well by the end of the trip—thanks to Scot’s interest and research. BY 5pm we had checked into the Seaside Quality Inn for an hour’s R&R. At 6pm we visited Cannon Beach electing to eat first (at Dooger’s Seafood Restaurant) and shoot the sunset later (sunset was at 8:40pm). As we walked down to Haystack Rock the Coast Guard and local agencies were conducting a rescue at sea drill with helicopters lowering the “rescuer” into the sea to retrieve the “victim”. The last light from 8:30 to 8:40 was quite golden and beautiful—the lower we got to the wet glistening sand the fuller were our reflections. We would sleep well tonight.

Day 3 Seaside, Cannon Beach and Oswald West: Out at 8AM after the hotel breakfast this cloudy crisp morning. Destination—Ecola State Park, the Indian word means whale. We stopped for the view south of Ecola Beach and looking out to Tillamook Light sitting ½ mile off shore. A few miles north is Indian Beach where we explored among the rocks and waterline. Surfers here, too. The thick rainforest of the park gave us an hour’s work—mossy spruce trees, tiny purple flowers and the clover-like sorrel were the stuff of our compositions, as well as the filtered light. By 12:30 we were seated at the Pig ‘N Pancake in Seaside, a local institution. Quite bright today so we took some R&R until 3:30 while YHC laid in some picnic supplies. Some explored the shops or down to the sea and Lewis & Clark bronze a few blocks away. At 3:30 we drove south to Oswald West State Park. The quarter mile walk to Smuggler’s Cove is filled with rainforest compositions and the beach is one of the most charming in the state. Dozens of surfers were there and some were catching some big waves within range of our lenses. Oswald West was the Oregon governor in the early 20th C who passed legislation to keep all beaches open to visitors by declaring them a public right of way. As the sun began to set we arrived at Arcadia Park. YHC prepared a salmon salad with fresh avocado and tomato plus his secret sauce. Anne suggested we stay for sunset, as there were some interesting rocks for foreground—excellent idea! Many interesting shapes silhouetted in the golden light. A great day!

Day 4 Seaside and Astoria: A beautiful morning. After breakfast at the hotel we photographic the iconic “welcome to Seaside” postcard mural, then drove to Astoria to see the replica tall ships, Hawaiian Chieftain and Lady Washington. Close-ups and detail shots including one couple dressed like Sacajawea and husband Toussaint Charbonneau—buckskins, Hudson Bay blanket coats—the whole kit. We made our best shots as the two ships hit the current and crew scrambled aloft to unfurl the sails. Feeling very historic we drove over to restored Fort Clatsop, built on the site of Lewis & Clark’s winter camp of 1805-6. School kids dressed as members of the Corps of Discovery were guarding the gates. Bronze statue is of Sacajawea, the Shoshone woman who played a large part in the success of the venture and her infant son, Jean Batiste. Films and exhibits were very well done—they even have a big black Newfoundland dog such as accompanied the expedition. By 1pm we were having a tasty lunch at the Astoria Pig N Pancake. We went back to the waterfront in hopes of catching action shots of the mock naval battle planned but no such luck. Our next stop was Fort Stevens for the wreck of the Peter Iredale—just the iron “ribs” were left. WWII era howitzers and vehicles were in place. Leisure time back in downtown Seaside from 4-6pm. A gray overcast had descended upon the coast—great for portrait shots but not so exciting for seascapes. We returned to Ecola Park and went for the foggy look along the coastline. The silhouetted spruce trees with silver sea worked well and the rain forest was darkly attractive. Indian Beach was thick with surfers appreciating the off shore breeze. Dinner at Doogers was carefully crafted so that each of us would be at peace with the idea of having Marion berry cobbler with or without ice cream for desert.

Day 5 Seaside to Lincoln City: A gray and misty day with some clear periods. We tried to make the most of the mist with a stop at Tolovana Wayside for a last misty look at Haystack Rock. A quick stop in Oswald West Park to retake the bridge over Necarney Creek (1937). Colorful kits and streamers at Rockaway Beach then on to the mouth of Tillamook Bay for the grouping of haystack like rocks with trees growing on them like bonsai arrangements. Garibaldi produced the old steam train, #90 and 50’s era Great Northern diesel at Railroad Park. At the north side of Tillamook Scott and Anne captured the 1931 Wilson River Bridge. A classic car show was taking place in the Tillamook Cheese Co. parking lot—some real beauties here along with their proud owners—especially the little girl polishing her scale model of a red mustang complete with stuffed horsie. Lunch was at the Shilo Inn. The McCullough built (CBMc) Wilson River Bridge is at Tillamook. We drove the Three Capes Scenic Loop over to Cape Meares Lighthouse. Capt. Meares was the first to ship timber out of the PNW and father of the ship building industry, as well. Nice coastal views of rocky cliffs. Following the scenic byway we arrived in Pacific City along with several thousand bicyclists completing rides from various parts of the states—some from 100 miles away over the coast range. They posed in their colorful Spandex outfits holding bicycles aloft with the pounding surf of the Pacific behind them. That was a bonus—we were here to capture the waves at Cape Kiwanda—a few hundred yards away but requiring a trudge up the sand dunes. YHC and Scott went for the wave profiles while Frank and Anne captured the sandstone shapes and colors with waves head on. As the light faded we hurried along down the coast to Lincoln City and on to the Best Western, arriving about 7PM. Dinner at the Hilltop Inn was very pleasant. Our beds called to us—a long day.

Day 6 Lincoln City to Florence: Overcast again this morn as we departed at 7:30—after sausage and eggs breakfast (complimentary motel breakfasts are getting better every year). Our first photo stop was a grouping of stone “stacks” in Siletz Bay—with little trees on them like the ones from Tillamook Bay. The cloudy bright conditions were perfect for some roadside scenes of dense rainforest vegetation with huge spruce tree stumps cut in the old crosscut saw days (We talked about H. Hughes’ Spruce Goose which was actually made from birch wood). The nature story here is about competition for light. We stopped at 5 star Salishan Lodge to admire the azaleas and some very attractive Coastal Pines. At Depoe Bay the CBMc bridge spans what is claimed to be the world’s smallest harbor. Further south The Rocky Creek Bridge (also CBMc, 1927) spans a small gorge at Otter Crest. Devil’s Punch Bowl is a collapsed sea cave—nice views towards Otter Crest looking north. At Whale Cove a very upmarket restaurant was blocking the view but the maitre’d invited us in to photograph from the deck—so Oregon! She also suggested lunch at Newport’s Nye Beach section—good tip. We ate well at Stephanie’s Bistro, but first photographed Yaquina Head lighthouse from the road and also from the tide pools below. After lunch Yaquina Bay light was less dramatic but we were on a mission to capture every lighthouse in Oregon as well as the Conde B. McCullough bridges which here in Newport spans the Yaquina Bay. The Oregon Coast Aquarium entertained us for two hours—especially with the great opportunities to capture jelly fish—sea nettles. The tide pool scenes were excellent, too. No need for a black umbrella here. Tuffted Puffin and Rhinoceros Auklet posed nicely but the sea otters and seals would not slow down. Short stop at the beautiful Alsea Bridge in Waldport (1988 rebuilt 1936 bridge). Through Yachats (ya-hots) to Cape Perpetua and the black volcanic “blowhole” at Cook’s Chasm that the high tide and surging waves caused to spout like a whale every few moments. Great waves here, too. Cummins Creek Bridge and Ten Mile Creek Bridge were both CBMC bridges. So so light at the famous Heceta Head lighthouse but we made some safety shots. After checking into the River House Inn, below the Siuslaw Bridge in Florence we thought there might be a sunset so we purchased deli sandwiches at Fred Myers and a bottle of wine and drove out to Heceta Beach just north of Florence. Weather was pleasant but a cloudbank obscured the setting sun—so to bed.

Day 7 Florence area: Rainy this morning at 6:30 but clearing by 7:30 as we photographed the harbor with old fishing boats such as the Miss Conduct and Captain Armstrong which seemed to have made it’s last voyage. We wanted more mist. Scenes of the Conde B. McCullogh (CBMc) Bridge over the Siuslaw, too before we headed north for the Heceta Head lighthouse view. Down to Cape Creek Bridge—slightly reminiscent of a Roman aqueduct—also a CBMc creation. We walked the half mile up past the lightkeeper’s house (now a B&B) to the light and on up the trail past it for views from above. Wild iris seduced us along the way. Good beach scenes here, too. Back in Florence we stopped for the Darlingtonia Wayside—a refuge for the Cobra Lily, aka Pitcher Plant—which traps insects in it’s bowl and receives its nourishment from them. We rendezvoused with YHC’s childhood friend Craig McKern and his grandson Teagan who invited us to the family beach cottage at nearby Heceta Beach. YHC prepared a chicken salad lunch while Craig talked about the Oregon economy based on his experience as a property appraiser. Craig took our group photo which will be emailed soon. Blueberry pie for desert then an hour R&R at the River House from 2-3pm. We visited Honeyman State Park for tall dunes, brilliant Scotch broom and blue blue Cleawox Lake. A few landscapes with grasses and seascapes from the camping sites south of Honeyman but the prosaically named Oregon Dunes Day Use Area produced the most dramatic scenes of rippled dunes which stretch for most of the Central Coast. Carter Lake was our last photo stop of the day at 5:30pm because after getting fuel in Florence Eva, our silver Chrysler van, refused to start. She has an electronic key which had finally broken. Eventually we taxied back to the motel and walked to nearby Old Town to dine quite luxuriously at Bridgewaters while the rental company sent a mechanic and a new key over from Eugene—it all worked out just fine and Eva was back with us by 9PM. The Airlie’s Muller Thurgau 2008 was sunshine in a bottle—perfect for our seafood dinners.

Day 8 Florence-Newport-Florence: The weatherman threatens that this is our last good day so we plan to make the best of it by getting out by 7:30 to see if the Harbor has improved then head north for a review. Sunbeams were burning through the Sitka Spruce forest so we stopped to capture the God-rays near Cummings Creek. Big Creek Bridge was added to the CBMc bridge collection for Scott. We arrived in Waldport just in time for the Bridge Interpretation Center to open—Scott stayed here and viewed all the films and exhibits devoted to Conde B. McCullough’s distinguished career. The rest of us continued north stopping for scenes that appealed to us, dropping by the Aquarium to recover YHC’s camera bag. Seal Rocks is the scene for Elephant Rock, which does look like a dozing elephant. We recovered Scott in Waldport, purchased groceries including bakery fresh bread and put together some roast beef sandwiches much enjoyed in the sunshine and calm of our sheltered picnic table. Devil’s Churn needed re-photographing then Cook’s Chasm where the blow hole was not too active (low tide) but we walked down to the basaltic ledge of a beach and captured some nice waves breaking in front of us. At 3PM we were at Sea Lion Caves where a great sea cave seems to be the prime real estate for Sea Lions to gather –each bull guarding his harem. 800 ISO and 1/30 sec. exposures gave us some nice images. Other bulls and their harems were gathered on the rocky beaches below the cliffs. We stopped again at Darlingtonia Wayside for the Cobra lilies in softer light. Darlingtonia is the botanical name of the species. From 5-7 at leisure—clothes we washed and dried—then a dinner of fish tacos and chowder at the famous Mo’s on the wharf—an Oregon Coast institution.

Day 9 Florence to Bandon: We had been spoiled with perfect weather. Now it was raining as we packed up and left the River House Inn with windshield wipers on intermittent. The heavy overcast did permit some nice atmospheric marsh scenes with yellow water lilies near Lake Tankenich. Old rotting logs were hosting bouquets of plants. Reedsport, though, was dry as we captured the CBMc Bridge across the Umpqua River. The adjacent railroad bridge was of swing gate construction with the gate open. We photographed from a industrial boatyard where oceangoing fishing boats were being refitted. Winchester Bay yielded a few scenes of old wooden fishing vessels in dry dock and colorful floats for fishing nets and crab pots. Coos Bay Bridge (CBMc) crosses into North Bend where scenes of logs being loaded onto ships and trucks were made. Then onto Charleston Harbor where a sudden intense downpour prompted a 15 minute nap. The sun came out with a vengeance and soon we were chatting with one of the local commercial fishermen and shooting the crab pots. We ordered sandwiches form Davey Jones’ Locker nearby and drove over to Cape Arago for picnic lunch at beautiful Sunset Bay—very distinctive rock formations and nice silvered old driftwood trees here. Cape Arago Lighthouse is on a small island just offshore—scenes of the light and the dramatic coastline. A bit further south is Shore Acres—a lovely park that was once the private garden of the Simpson family--a wealthy lumber baron. The shore line here is as dramatic as any in the world with dozens of little coves, caves and arches plus interesting volcanic rock formations. Now the sky is blue with little puffy clouds, and the rhododendrons blazing away in a dozen different colors. Reflections in the pond with bronze Japanese cranes and stone lanterns were quite lovely, too. By 5pm we have arrived at the BW Inn at Face Rock in Bandon—an hour’s R&R then a fantastic on the beach around Face Rock. A nice view of the Coquille River Light with the coast to the north in the background. For a so called bad weather day we were impressed. Dinner was at the Station and very good but as the sunset began to look like a happening, Scott had to forgo his pie and we rushed to our favorite stretch of rocks and sand before Face Rock. Just as the sun was setting at 8:40 a squall came up and blew rain and sand along the beach—we beat a hasty retreat back up the steps to Eva and soon were in the shelter of our rather luxurious rooms—very satisfied with the day.

Day 10 Bandon & Port Orford: Mostly showers and windy today but occasional clearing at just the right moments. After a pleasant full breakfast we did a quick tour of the cliff top viewpoints and the lighthouse then headed south to the Cape Blanco light, arriving before 10AM opening time—we explored the area, capturing bucolic scenes with cows, wild irises and farmhouses then made the 10AM tour with docents including climbing up to the light—a few interesting shots with the prisms which cast a 1000 watt bulb 26 miles to sea. We managed to include the lighthouse and the sea coast for some great shots. Nearby Hughes Farmhouse from 1893 was open to view and cast some light about early settlement and trade. The butter from the dairy heard was shipped to San Francisco. Much of the wood paneling here is of bay laurel—called myrtle wood locally. In nearby Port Orford we visited a small factory where bowls and other items were produced. Lunch was at the un-promising looking Cafe Paradise but the mushroom/Swiss burger was to die for. Port Orford lacks a secure harbor so the fishing vessels are lowered into the sea by a large hoist. Still blustery with some rain as we turned back north, Anne was our champion shutter clicker, as the guys sought the dry comfort of the van. Closer to Bandon Misty Meadows was another pleasant stop where we could taste all of the local jams and even make a few purchases. Art 101 was the gallery with the sculpture had that organic Gaudi look and indeed the artist was from Barcelona. Some of the sculpture was created from beach plastic—and displayed around the west coast to raise awareness of this grave environmental problem. We explored
out to the Coquille Lighthouse on the jetty then treated ourselves to a delicious seafood dinner at the Wheelhouse in Bandon.

Day 11 Bandon to Crescent City: We had already covered the road to Port Orford so that put us ahead of the game on this long day. We made a few stops for typical Oregon Coast scenery—haystacks and rocky outcroppings along this coast that is slowly being devoured by the relentless Pacific. Brush Creek Bridge was at Humbug Mountain. Otter Point was one scenic viewpoint before Gold Beach and the CBMc built bridge over the Rogue River. Scott captured the bridge while we others attempted to immortalize the Mary D. Hume, stuck in the mud, resting in peace after 97 years of service. She was built in Gold Beach from parts salvaged from another ship and then had the longest working life of any ship registered. Lunch as at the Porthole Café, the local favorite. We made a quick stop at Gold Beach Books to get coffee at see this phenomenal resource that would do credit to any big city bookstore. Kissing Rock south of Gold Beach was a quick stop, then down to the collection of off shore “sculptures” around Pistol River. The Thomas Creek Bridge, the highest bridge in Oregon, is perched on two green steel towers that disappear into the canyon below. We drove down to Whalehead Beach and also Lone Ranch Beach but neither compelled us to stay today. Harris Beach, just north of Brookings, did call out but a sudden rainstorm cancelled the engagement. Soon we were crossing into California and headed for Crescent City, scene of the most extensive damage from the February 2011 tsunami from Japan. Our BW Northwoods Inn was across Highway 101 from the Marina. The light was pretty good and the rain had stopped so we knew not to miss this opportunity. The Battery Lighthouse sits on a tiny island connected at low tide to the mainland. It being lowtide we walked out and around the attractive lighthouse that sat so jauntily with it’s small keeper’s house and red roofed storage shed. Driving past the Indian Casino were soon found ourselves in a gorgeous stand of old growth redwoods, part of the Jedidiah Smith section of Redwood National Park. In the last two hours of light we captured close-Ups and portraits of the giant trees—all the while looking for the rhododendron blooms that we wanted as a counterpoint to the forest giants. We found them in the Stout Grove area and further NE towards #199 and made plans to return tomorrow. It being almost 9pm we stopped at Denny’s and were pleasantly surprised at the delicious meal we had—delicious Coho salmon for YHC.

Day 12 Crescent City, California to Troutdale, Oregon: Rainy and gray this morning but by 7am departure it was clear and sunny blue sky in the west. We couldn’t resist a quick return to the lighthouse—and just kept shooting as the sunlight moved around creating some dramatic effects. We drove on up #199 with only one goal—to capture those pink rhodies against 2000 year old redwoods. It was hard, especially when we saw a group of photographers capturing God-rays coming through the giant trees. Near Little Bald Mountain trail on Howland Hill Road we found a number of good subjects. Blessed again! After getting our fill of this iconic North Coast shot we relaxed and just enjoyed the view as we followed the winding Illinois River to Grants Pass, stopping for bathroom and snacks, then on to Roseburg and the Depot Café—one of the McMenamins pubs that saved the old train station from demolition. Wonderful lunch and soon it was petal to the metal time all the way to Eugene for refuel for Eva then a stop at YHC’s 1895 farmhouse in Brownsville where Connie Bull was waiting with Marionberry Pie and Tillmook Ice cream—an unbeatable combination. Thank you Connie—you saved the day. It was raining again or it would have taken a week to return to the Portland area. Near Ankeny Hill we exited I-5 to capture the storm clouds rolling eastward. Then at Turner we arrived at Willamette Vineyards at 5:50pm with just ten minutes to sample several reserve Pinot wines that retail for $38 per bottle. As we pulled into Troutdale it was obvious that the setting sun would be reaching Crown Point’s Vista House for the iconic Columbia Gorge shot—we dropped off our bags, washed our faces and headed out for the shot. Gorgeous. Late dinner at Sharis next to our hotel where the meal was quite delicious and Elise, our friendly waitress made everything taste better.

Day 13 Columbia Gorge Area: Dry but overcast this AM. Sleeping in today we left at 8:30 with coffees in hand and drove historic Highway 30 along the Sandy River and up to the heights above the Gorge and on to Crown Point and the art deco Vista Dome, created to enhance the view when the 1919 scenic gorge highway was built. Frank had the idea of focusing on the dome and putting cameras on the floor with self-timer—which worked very well. The visitor center is newly reopened and very helpful describing the early 20th C and how the automobile created a desire for more scenic viewpoints and lodges. The architect described his style as Tudor Gothic but art deco fits the style and motifs. On down the scenic highway to the river level. Latourell Falls has trails up to midlevel and above and another down below to capture the plunge pool and columnar basalt formations. Shepperds Dell is a green bower with splashing funnel shaped falls. At Bridal Veil Falls we took the 2/3 mile trail through lush rain forest to the bottom of a gorgeous grotto where the falls was pounding down into a pool half hidden by a huge boulder. Violet larkspur, Solomon’s Seal and pink Bleeding Hearts were just a few of the discoveries along the trail. Now it was almost noon so we bypassed the crowded (Memorial Day) parking lots and drove up to Cascade Locks for a quick lunch at the cafeteria style Charburger. The steel bridge across the Columbia is known as Bridge of the Gods after an Indian legend portrayed as a mural on the concrete abutments. Crossing the bridge to Washington we headed upriver to see some of the most dramatic windsurfing in the world—created by the afternoon upriver winds. At Hood River we crossed back to Oregon and parked at the city marina to photograph the Kite boarders catching waves and doing twists and turns in the air on their oversized snowboard like water ski. This was much harder to photograph because of the distance between the boarder and her kite (they weren’t all guys). Back down into the Gorge now to Horsetail Falls—1/250 shutter speeds to show the plunging lines of water. Our luck was holding with the light. At Wahkeena Falls we concentrated on detail shots of the stream. YHC and Scott also hiked up to the bridge and base of the waterfall. By 6:30 we back at the Comfort Inn with time to pack up before our last dinner of Coho Salmon at Shari’s where Elise took very good care of us. This is our last moment as a group so we all say goodbye, somewhat reluctantly as we have had a great time capturng the Columbia Gorge and Oregon Coast at their very best. We had driven about 1900 miles in two weeks to capture our images. Mother Nature cooperated every step of the way—even raining when we needed to move on and clearing the air for the next shots!

Day 14 (May 30) Columbia Gorge to Home: YHC made three trips to the airport this morning to get Frank, Scott and Anne onto their flight’s home—remember, you all promised me a jpeg of me posing at Multnomah Falls in the yellow slicker and red umbrella. In return, I’ll send the group photo that Craig made at his beach house. Surprise—everybody gets meal refunds—save it for your next Close-Up Expedition.!

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