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Published: December 31st 2009
The car slowly trundled along the bumpy dirt road, and I tightened my grip on the steering wheel and gazed at the mountains spreading out in every direction. We’d been driving for well over an hour, following the windy, unpaved service road as it wound slowly through the remote Southern Oregon wilderness. As we climbed, the trees became sparser and dustier, and any trace of civilization was lost in the endless landscape.
We’d begun our adventure the day before, eagerly packing the car and heading for Bandon on the Oregon coast. However, my dreams of a tranquil, idyllic weekend communing with nature ended as soon as we pulled into the state park campground. Apparently, I’d forgotten how popular the coastal beaches can be in the summer, and instead of a quiet campsite we found a bustling transient civilization. There were large families sprawled under makeshift awnings, picnic tables overflowing with soda cans, motor homes the size of apartment blocks, kids riding bikes, radios blaring, and dogs howling. To make matters worse, there were barely any trees substantial enough to block us from our neighbor (one of whom had just backed his trailer into a stump and was angrily yelling at
his grandchildren). It looked like a refugee camp for small town America, and while everyone (with the exception of our irate neighbor) appeared to be having fun, I’d hoped for a more peaceful setting.
We were able to get our money back from the kindly park worker, and fled inland, expecting more solitude in the mountains. From Craig’s small laminated map, we ascertained that it was possible to cut inland near Port Orford, following the Elk River into Siskiyou National Forest. The drive along the river was stunning; the pure waters carving their way through a canyon en route to the sea. After about an hour we stopped for the night at a nondescript location on the bank of the river, deciding to stay in spite of the thick cloud of mosquitoes. The six or so primitive campsites were free of charge, and most were unoccupied. We set up our tent in a secluded grove of trees on the far end, and immediately scrambled down for a swim in the river. The scene before us was perhaps one of the most beautiful I have ever laid eyes on. The clear, pristine water formed a long pool around four feet
Lower North Falls
Silver Falls State Park, ORdeep, cloaked by forest and flowing gently. Ferns clung to the vertical bank, and across the river pebbles formed a gently shore.
As true testament to the Elk River’s beauty, we barely noticed the intense cold. Swimming in the tree-lined gulley was truly amazing, and as we floated we could see fish and bright red salamanders on the stony bottom. The sun set and we had to clamber out to warm up by our fire. A mouse- undaunted by a crackling fire and two humungous creatures -sat at our feet and greedily gobbled up crumbs from our dinner. The night was incredibly silent, other than the occasional rustle of a small animal in the leaves. The next morning we went for another spectacular swim before tearing ourselves away.
With destination unknown, we decided to keep heading inland. A squiggly line on the map seemed to indicate that following the road which led to our campsite would eventually connect with Interstate 5 near Grant’s Pass. After about fifteen miles the pavement disappeared, but we decided to continue “just to see what was up ahead”. This desire to peek around the next bend soon turned into an odyssey of driving
Buoys
Newport, OR which lasted over three hours on the service road, which provided spectacular vistas of the Siskiyou Mountains fading into the distance. I drove carefully to avoid scraping the undercarriage of the car on the sharp rocks, and the experience soon became nerve-wracking. There was no cell reception, and if the car broke down, who would ever find us? How many miles would we have to hike in order to get help? We weren’t sure if the “road” would connect or simply cease to exist in the middle of nowhere. I’d heard about people becoming lost and stranded in these mountains, but until my own misadventure I never realized how truly vast and rugged this territory was.
After what seemed like an eternity, we found our way backed to the developed world, arriving in the tiny settlement of Agness around 3 pm. The small community is comprised of a cluster of homes, a post office, and small general store, all nestled along the banks of the mighty Rogue River. We stopped in the store for some juice, passing some locals who were drinking beer and swapping stories on the porch. The inside of the shop was cool, and full of
crafts and dusty canned food. The kindly owner provided us with directions to Grant’s Pass (what had appeared to be an easy, direct route on the map would take us at least another three hours). Thus, we continued along another meandering road, this one mercifully paved, and offering more spectacular views of the sublime scenery. At one point Craig spotted a rattlesnake sunning itself on the pavement, and was able to swerve just in time to position the creature between the wheels. We stopped to watch the snake, annoyed but unharmed, slither angrily to safety. We did eventually reach our destination, but the journey had left a profound impression on my. All of rugged the terrain we had covered was just one small corner of Oregon.
Sometimes, I truly find the vastness of America difficult to comprehend. Such wide open spaces and dramatic landscapes have shaped our national psyche. The Pacific Northwest alone encompasses a mind-numbing variety of terrain, ranging from lush rain forest to stark desert. Despite spending most of my years in this region, I feel as though I have only grazed the surface in regards to the experiences it has to offer. Though I will soon
Red Octupus
Found in a tide-pool near the Straight of Juan de Fuca be leaving it for more tropical climes, the culture of the Pacific Northwest will always be strongly ingrained in me: coffee and microbrews, the smell of pine after the rain, crashing waves, bookstores, pristine mountain lakes, the lively bustle of Pike Place Market and the solitude of Eastern Oregon. The wonders of the Northwest are difficult to summarize, but I thought I would give my favorite slice of the globe a fond farewell with a list of some of my favorites:
TOP 10 FAVORITE NORTHWEST DAY HIKES Since I haven’t done as much hiking in Washington, I’m afraid it’s rather poorly represented. For Oregon I’d recommend using
, from a local and provides excellent, accessible information.
1. Cascade Head, near Neskowin, OR. Situated along the Oregon coast, several miles north of Lincoln City, this spectacular hike leads to a large headland with unparalleled views of the ocean and estuary. The area is a national biosphere reserve, and the trail passes Sitka spruce and groves of pine as well as traversing the grassy bluff. The entire hike is around five miles, with quite an elevation gain…but it’s worth it. Heaven couldn’t have a better view.
2. Spruce Railroad Trail, Lake Crescent, WA. Located within Olympic National Park, the hike follows the path of an old railroad (you can still see one of the tunnels) along the shores of pristine Crescent Lake. The out-and-back trail is about four miles total, and affords perfect views of the unspoiled blue water and Olympic Mountains. The trail is flat and easy, giving you plenty of time to admire the scenery.
3. Sweet Creek Falls, Mapleton, OR. This two mile hike is hidden in the countryside surrounding Mapleton, Oregon, roughly fifteen miles inland from the coast. The trail follows a series of waterfalls as they cascade down from a deep pool. Portions of the path are on a suspended wooden boardwalk, and the surrounding foliage is gorgeous, especially in the fall.
4. Silver Falls State Park, OR. Silver Falls can get pretty busy in the summer, but most people only enjoy the first few viewpoints and don’t continue on the full eight mile hike. The entire loop takes several hours and passes ten spectacular waterfalls, several of which you can walk behind. It is particularly beautiful in fall, when the deciduous leaves turn into stunning shades of gold.
5. Smith
Sunflower
Corvallis, OR Rock State Park, Terrebonne, OR. Located in the small community of Terrabonne only a few miles from Redmond, OR, this park offers excellent rock-climbing and hiking. There are two main trails, the short and steep Misery Ridge, which rewards hikers with excellent views of the Central Oregon Countryside and Cascade Mountains, and the River Trail. The latter follows the crooked river as it winds its way around the base of the monumental rock structure. For photos, see
Hiking Smith Rock State Park.
6. Cape Flattery, Neah Bay, WA. Neah Bay, the westernmost point of the United States, feels like the end of the earth. The windswept beaches and rugged shores are located on the Makah Indian Reservation. The short trail (around one mile) to Cape Flattery offers views of Tatoosh Island and Lighthouse on a clear day. I’ve always wanted to do the longer hike to Shi Shi beach and Point of the Arches, which I hear is highly recommended.
7. Wild Horse Lake, Steens Mt. Wilderness, OR. I wrote about this hike in a previous blog
Steens Mountain Wilderness and Oregon’s East. The Steens Mountain Wilderness Area, roughly an hour’s drive south of Burns, OR, is
Painted Hills
John Day Fossil Beds, OR a geological wonder; comprised of deep glacier-cut gorges, birch groves, and barren, high altitude terrain. The 2.5 mile roundtrip hike to Wildhorse Lake is taxing, given the extreme elevation gain on the way back, but the scenery couldn’t be more mesmerizing. Sitting by the pure, remote mountain lake I felt like the last person left on the planet.
8. McKenzie River Trail, OR. This twenty-six mile trail is most famous for mountain biking, as it passes a variety of stunning scenery ranging from volcanic rock to waterfalls. The trail is also great for hiking, as it follows the crystal clear McKenzie River from its source in the Cascade Mountains. There are many campsites along the way, so it is a great place to spend several days exploring Oregon’s spectacular environment.
9. Waldo Lake Loop, OR. Waldo Lake was once designated as one of the clearest and cleanest lakes in the country. Located in the West Cascades a couple hours east of Eugene, the unspoiled mountain lake is home to several campgrounds and twenty mile trail which circles its shores. Along the way are many hidden beaches, still water, and a feeling of supreme solitude.
10. Heart’s Cove,
Neskowin, OR Located in the same area as Cascade Head, this trail passes through old growth forest to a hidden cove and waterfall, only accessible by foot. Along the way you pass through old growth forest, to the sound of sea lions barking in the distance.
TOP 10 FAVORITE UNIQUELY NORTHWEST MEMORIES 1. Swimming in the pristine waters of the Elk River, and warming up next to the campfire. Siskiyou National Forest, Oregon.
2. Having a picnic at Gasworks Park, taking an aerial tour of Seattle’s spectacular scenery by seaplane, and splashing down on Lake Union (thank you!). Seattle, Washington.
3. Hiking to a hidden cove, and then discovering a Red Octopus hidden in a tide pool at Salt Creek Park, near Port Angeles, Washington.
4. Wine tasting at Tyee Winery (www.tyeewine.com), drinking a bottle under a giant oak tree, and bird-watching at the William L. Finley Wildlife Reserve in the Willamette Valley, Oregon.
5. Watching a meteor shower at remote Fish Lake, having our campsite ransacked by deer, and waking to a brilliant sunrise. Steens Mountain Wilderness, Oregon.
6. Strolling through charming downtown Corvallis, eating pastries at the famous New Morning Bakery,
Upper North Falls
Silver Falls State Park and enjoying the stately campus at Oregon State University. Corvallis, Oregon
7. Visiting Hatfield Marine Science Center, walking along the Yaquina Bay Estuary, and having a pint at the Rogue Ale Public House. Newport, Oregon.
8. Gazing in awe at the Olympic Mountains, Beachcombing along Sequim Bay. Sequim, WA
9. Cycling through fall foliage along the Riverbank Trail System, Eugene, Oregon.
10. Watching the winter storms roll in and feeling the cold spray of the waves. Depoe Bay, OR
TOP 10 FAVORITE SCENIC NORTHWEST DRIVES 1. Old Toledo Highway, between Newport and Toledo, Oregon.
2. Chuckanut Drive. Bellingham, WA
3. HWY 112, between Port Angeles and Neah Bay, WA.
4. HWY 126, McKenzie River Scenic Byway, OR.
5. US 101 between Olympia and Quilcene, WA.
6. US 101 between Newport and Astoria, OR.
7. HWY 395 between Burns and John Day, OR.
8. HWY 20, North Cascades, WA.
9. HWY 205 between Burns and Fields, OR.
10. HWY 84 Columbia River Gorge, OR
TOP 5 FAVORITE NORTHWEST LANDSCAPES 1. Olympic National Park, WA.
2. Lake Chelan State Park, WA.
3.
Steens Mountain Wilderness, OR.
4. Crater Lake National Park, OR.
5. Silver Falls State Park, OR.
TOP 5 FAVORITE NORTHWEST COFFEEHOUSES 1. Perugino. Eugene, OR
2. Vivace. Seattle, WA.
3. Zeitgeist. Seattle, WA.
4. Stumptown Coffee. Portland, OR.
5. The Espresso Garden, Gardiner, WA. (I can’t get over the view or the lavender mochas).
TOP 5 FAVORITE NORTHWEST MICROBREWS 1. Mac and Jack African Amber. Redmond, WA.
2. Imperial Sasquatch. Ninkasi Brewing Company. Eugene, OR.
3. Hazelnut Stout. Rogue Ale. Newport, OR.
4. Fat Scotch. Silver City Brewing Company. Silverdale, WA.
5. Black Butte Porter. Deschutes Brewery. Bend, OR.
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