I'm sitting here in the shade at a concrete picnic table in a Kiwanis-operated free campground on the outskirts of Lewistown, which is the geographical center of Montana. The air is warm and dry, with a nice, cool breeze blowing across me. Behind me sits Empedocles, the Wonder Odyssey, in which Sally is lying down with her friend Shinzen, trying to get rid of a headache. To my left, just across a gravel drive, there's a hole in the ground about three inches in diameter. Every now and then a prairie dog peeks out at me. His name is Paul. He lives here, and he's wondering just what the hell it is I think I'm doing, driving over his home. We spent the night at Lewistown's historic Calvert Hotel, which specializes in fancy decor, failing to
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