Surf's Up on the North Shore

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Strong winds and choppy water had turned our snorkeling spot in Waikiki into a mire of murky water. The visibility was so terrible I could barely see Craig drifting just a few feet in front of me, let alone much in the way of marine life. After a couple of days of these less than ideal conditions, we decided to take advantage of the weather and head to the North Shore to watch some big waves. The surfing websites listed the conditions as “good to epic”, with swells predicted up to twenty feet expected in some areas.

We took the bus to Haleiwa, home of the “triple crown” of surfing (hosted in November). Honolulu’s public transit system, TheBus!, runs all over Oahu. It is rated as one of the best bus systems in the nation for its efficiency and convenience. In my opinion, the jury’s still out, since in some areas of the city the bus seems to stop at every block, making the journey painstakingly slow. Still, it’s hard to complain when crossing the entire island costs only $2.25 per person.

The journey takes about an hour and a half from Waikiki, including transfers. The urban sprawl of Honolulu seems to last forever, but when we finally cut North we are rewarded with flat, sprawling countryside and jagged mountains rising dramatically in the distance. We speed past the Dole Pineapple Plantation, where a group of older tourists in Hawaiian shirts wait patiently to visit what promises to be “the world’s largest maze”.

We stumble off the bus in sleepy Haleiwa, to find the town buzzing with activity. A procession of vehicles, many with surfboards strapped to their roofs or sticking out of windows, ambles down the main street. In spite of the hustle and bustle, the town maintains the relaxed atmosphere endemic of the North Shore. The dusty street is lined with restaurants, galleries, and shaved ice shops. It feels great to be out of the city, and I feel instantly at ease. We eat burritos with fresh Ahi Tuna at a popular Mexican restaurant and then wander next door to “the Coffee Gallery.” It has a great atmosphere, with seating in a quiet garden courtyard out back…and they add coconut to my mocha.

After reinvigorating ourselves with caffeine we head to the beach. A couple of the shops selling shaved ice have the longest lines I’ve ever seen, literally winding down the street. We pass through the marina, where paddle boarders are skimming the water in a protected inlet. Haleiwa Ali’i Beach Park is marked with fluttering red flags and signs advertising high surf and treacherous currents. There are a few body boarders, but most stay in the shallows near shore. They cavort agilely in the water, leaping from the beach to meet an oncoming wave, and doing flips as they are tossed back again.

Only one brave soul ventures out, and the force of the waves is so strong he is continually buffeted backwards, in spite of his best effort to dive beneath the pounding onslaught of water. When he finally manages to make some progress, the current pulls him sharply away from the sand and closer to a dangerous rocky promontory. The lifeguard, who already has his rescue board positioned halfway down the beach in anticipation of emergency, notices and shouts at him through his megaphone, “Hey, body boarder!” When there is no response some of the crowd on the beach joins in, but the loan boarder can’t hear anything over the crashing surf. Thankfully, he manages to center himself, and catches a decent wave back toward the beach.

We sit for awhile and watch a local family fishing. They are having a great time, cheering when someone manages to reel in a fish from the tumultuous water, and laughing as the waves occasionally charge up over the rocks and douse them. Later, we move to a more secluded area near the rocks, sheltered from the rest of the beach by some bushes. The wild beauty of the landscape makes me feel as though I have been marooned on Treasure Island, and am about to embark on some sort of daring and heroic adventure. The waves are truly spectacular. Watching the swells rise, curl, and them crash inwards on themselves is like observing a piece of performance art; delicate yet powerful, intriguing yet repetitive. The wind is strong, whistling through the palm leaves and bending the slim trunks backwards.

Far out, there are some surfers braving the swells. They are hauled out by jet skis and released, waiting for the exact moment to rise and ride the curve of the wave. They are too far away to see much, but I can occasionally make out a black speck swooping down a solid wall of water.

The rest of the day is spent at the beach, mesmerized by the sound of crashing surf, until the light begins to fade. The sunset is incredible, sinking behind the mountains and casting an orange glow over land and water. I am reluctant to board the bus back to the city, but consoled to know the tranquility of the North Shore is just a short bus ride away.

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Photos

Paintings
By amazing North Shore artist Heather Brown.

Comments

[Deborah Bradbury]

Beautiful!
Another great blog - wonderful writing and amazing photos. Thanks for sharing your experiences. Love, Mom