Haleakala: Racing the Sun to the Summit of Maui's Dormant Volcano (2 of 3)


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North America » United States » Hawaii » Maui
June 1st 2009
Published: August 30th 2012
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At this moment, I am cocooned in a sleeping bag under a net of stars somewhere on the side of the dormant volcano, Haleakala. The silence is calming and the darkness refreshing. It is about midnight and if we were still in Anchorage at this time the sun would be beckoning us out for an evening hike. We set up my 2-person, retired army tent after stumbling around in the dark trying to find an open campsite (in a poor attempt to not disrupt the sleeping campers).

In the early hours of the morning, our goal was to catch the sunrise from the top of the volcano (which required a drive to the parking lot and short hike). However, isolated from our cell phones and all other time telling devices we had no idea how we intended to wake up. Without the prodding of the mornings’ icy fingers, we never would have risen in time. With destiny at our backs, we began to race the sun to the summit.

We drove up the mountain; the dawn began to mummer on the horizon. We still had a good 12 miles to drive up the twisting and bending road. We sailed through each curve hoping the traffic would not descend until after the sun burst above the clouds. Once at the top, the parking lot was packed full of cars and lined with tour buses. We felt the sun edging closer. In a moment of panik, we pulled into one of the few spaces available: a handicap slot. There was a brisk chill in the air and we decided to make the short hike to the peak with our sleeping bags.

Amidts the silhouettes of the bussed up tourists littering the view, we found seclusion in a crevice of the volcano. We cuddled up in our bags and watched the clouds burst over the crater and begin to settle in its vast, open sore. The sun had not yet mounted the clouds, but light burst over the sea of settled cotton candy. As the sun began to rise, it rimmed the edge of the clouds with a vibrant gold lining. The lining began to swell into a copper ring as the sun slowly pulled its way to the surface of the morning. The crescent lifted into the sky shooting off rays of light with the intensity of the sun, yet with the grace and vibrancy of a flickering star.

Though the tourists began to gasp in awe and clap as though greeted by the climax of a long anticipated show, all we could do was sit and stare and soak in the fact that we were in this place, at this moment. The warmth of the sun coated our chills and transformed our surroundings into a completely different world. The gray figures began to bare features; the sides of the volcano showed a life of their own; the clouds became a featurless white sea; the crater became a barren red dessert, and life flooded Haleakala.

After a long period of silence we started to explore past the large group of Japanese tourists taking turns capturing photos of their silhouettes against the boldness of the sun. There were men flexing their muscles in staged poses, kids jumping to pause in mid air, and couples holding hands for that unique, pictureperfect moment that would be posted across the internet with the millions of others taken by that same tourguide.

By the time we got back to the car, we met up with a local officer who saw us, fully functional, getting into our not so handicapped vehicle. He came over, ticket book in hand. We proceeded to get out of the car as he asked a series of questions:

Why did you do it?
“…there were no other spots within 100 meters and the sun was rising.”

Are you always this inconsiderate of disabled people?
“….there were plenty of other open handicapped spots.”

Did you know the ticket would cost $200 minimum?
“…Nope, definitely not.”

Would you do it again?
“….Yes.”

Though momentarily shocked at our last answer he continued to lecture us, wanting to know why. It was an experience that could not have a monetary worth stamped to it, considering that Jhene and I are not of the disposition to simple visits Hawaii whenever we so please. He continued to lecture us on our poor decision and then slipped his ticket book back in his pocket and told us to enjoy the rest of our trip. We were both floored--- but extremely grateful as we had not budgeted that added cost into our trip (though considering the risks, as we parked we agreed to spilt the cost of any ticket we potentially could get).

We went over to the lookout area and spent sometime exploring the crater. Eventually we took the long windy road back down to the campground to collect the tent that we abandoned in a rush for the sunrise.

It was time to continue our drive around the island.


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I wish I could say that was Jhene and I, but alas, it was not.


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