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Published: April 28th 2010
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RV Travels
Colorado - Elk, Mule Deer, Ducks, Dippers, Hot Springs and Mesas
RV Travels
Colorado - Elk, Mule Deer, Ducks, Dippers, Hot Springs and Mesas
The drive from Albuquerque New Mexico to Pagosa Springs, Colorado can be routed through the mountains or around the mountains. Guess which we chose. I have seen high mountains, steep mountains, snowy mountains, gray mountains, brown mountains, red mountains, everything but green mountains - they are all high and cold and I can’t breathe where there is no oxygen. I am a Flatlander.
Hence, around the mountains we go; through Santa Fe, up 84 and straight into Pagosa Springs, which is a sweet little place where Main Street is fogged by the steam coming from pools of hot mineral springs, the existence of which, drew me there to begin with. The Spa Motel and RV Park, the one with its own hot mineral water pool, is closed until May 1st, alas, it is only April 19th. We are two weeks early. The only RV Parks open are:
1) a fancy deal with your own little cabana right along the site, or
2) a really cool RV Park down on the
Red rock cliffs
The cliffs here are reminesent of the those in the painted desert. San Juan River - Riverside RV Park - where we bagged a beautiful site right on the water, no hot springs on site, but beautiful just the same.
It was so cold, it snowed over night. Believe me when I say that April is early to visit any mountain area in the southwest. The benefit to early is no crowds, no lines, no waiting - which is great, but you must put up with the cold at night. The next day it was beautiful, warm enough for me to take my water colors and sketch a small crumbling cabin isolated in the woods next to the camp ground.
The following day, John, Paul and I traveled to Durango to the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad; however, once again, it doesn’t go to Silverton until May 1st. We took the Cascade Canyon Winter train for the 52 mile round-trip up and over some spectacular landscape (mountains/gorges with rivers at the bottom). Deliberately, we were in a coach, with no access to those under 12, thankfully avoiding those many children hanging out of the open rail car in front of us touching walls of rock 6 inches away, contrary
to conductor instructions, who was fearful of arms being torn off. I’m not sure what the parents were thinking, but I’m guessing they were not members of Mensa and I hope they had medical insurance. I had to giggle when several adults moved to our car pleading to be separated from the chaos - assigned seats in the adult car come at additional cost. Be so advised - pay it and enjoy “San Juan” class. The train traveled up to Cascade Canyon, backed into a Y siding and returned. It took five hours and we had a wonderful time.
Tuesday we were off to Delores, a hunting haunt of Johns located west on route 160 to look up an old friend of his. We were not successful at finding the friend, but had a great lunch in the same place he frequented many years ago and enjoyed the sites along the way. Along the way we spotted ducks - Red Heads, Buffle Heads and more. We also saw Mule Deer and Elk.
Wednesday we went to Mesa Verde. I can not tell you how much I didn’t enjoy the drive up the Mesa - 7700 feet. But then,
Heading to Colorado
Above Santa Fe and into the hills up route 84 how do I know- my eyes were closed. I can tell you that it was worth every treacherous foot. The cliff dwellings created by ancestral Anasazi peoples are the most recent, but occupation of the Mesa dates back at least 10,000 years to the Paleolithic Age. Artifacts found on site trace the growth of civilization from the time of hunter/gathers to the cliff dwelling Anasazi towards the end of the 13th century. The mystery is why and how and why they vanished from the Mesa which remained undiscovered for 600 years. There are many theories, but few answers. It is haunting, quiet and still. Ravens, the only inhabitants of the cliff dwellings, follow our progress from Far View, Cedar Tree Tower, Spruce Tree House, Square Tower House, Sun Temple, Cliff Palace and Balcony House. The Raven - dark guardians; old spirit protectors of a scared place. Mesa Verde I would like to explore further.
Thursday was our Spring Day. We went to the Springs Resort, paid our $17 for senior’s fees (being very disappointed that we weren’t locals and getting in free for the day) and soaked our bodies for several hours. We sauntered from pool to pool immersed
in warmth and bubbles until finally driven out by hunger, as there is no food available. Eighteen pools, varying in temperature from the hottest, about 106 to around 90 degrees are interspersed in patios above the river which winds through the town of Pagosa. It is a delightful, place relaxing - but a bit smelly - they say the sulfur is very medicinal and it could be my imagination, but my skin seems less raisiny (is that a word?)
John was right, route 160, Pagosa Springs to Durango, is delightful along the entire length and even though we were cold, high and lacking oxygen we are very glad we went with him to Colorado. We experienced ancient civilizations, sulfur springs and another life bird. An American Dipper, who actually walks under the water of swiftly moving streams looking for larva and such - that is a specialized niche for sure.
Friday morning, we were off again, John back to Albuquerque (I think I have finally remembered how to spell it) for his flight back home to Florida and Paul and I to Oklahoma as we work our way east once again. The only thing we missed on Colorado's
Route 160 was Susan, who had to get back to work - but that gives us a chance to come back again to see those aspen groves in the fall that John was telling us about. Susan will love the Dippers.
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