The Other Side of Yosemite

Our trip to San Fran was a great break from the Valley. Our first time in a city since we hyperventilated our way through Las Vegas (if any of you have been in a city with Philippe, you can probably imagine). We had an amazing host there, Ryan. He is living the dream, playing drums in a great band called
Music For Animals.

So what's my idea of a good host? Someone who shares their life and space with you, but acknowledges that you have a different lifestyle. For example, Philippe and I go to bed and wake up with the sun. It seems the opposite for musicians and artists. Another example, Ryan took out Jorg (our German friend that we drove to San Fran) and didn't laugh when this puffy-jacket wearing kid asked for a compass bearing to get back to the apartment. We got to experience a little of the San Fran hipster scene without feeling like we were completely out of touch with style and fashion. Again... now there's a good host! So check out their site and their tunes. Yeah Ryan, living the dream as a hipster artist pro-humanitarian!!

So, what else have we been up to? Yup, more climbing. To answer my mother's question 'no, we don't get tired of climbing day in and day out.' Even though it always involves some kind of sticky rubber on our feet, there are a lot of different types of climbing to experience. We have two very different examples, since our last update.

Aid Climbing
When we packed ourselves into my Subi, we included a generous (and heavy) selection of aid climbing gear from Craig Holm. Well, how lame would it be to drive that stuff all of the way to the Valley without putting it to use?

So... after watching party after party line up for the Nose, we decided something shorter, less crowded, and with more interesting aid climbing was in order. To Washington Column we went, to 'The Prow.' This wasn't going to be a one-day speed ascent. We wanted to get as much use of Craig's gear as possible, to include his haul bag, portaledge, and poop container. So, now I can say that I've led C3 (C3 = pretty scary but not wet-your-pants scary, for those of you unfamiliar with ratings) AND I can say that I've lived on a portaledge for 3.5 days. Not Fast, but how else can you get a private view of the Valley, while dining on fruit cocktail and malt liquor (actually, we brought up fois gras and olives; but after the first night it was pretty standard wall food)? Yes, Rachel has learned that you can drink and climb!

So... big shout out to Craig. (friends dont let friends descend North Dome Gully with a haulbag!) I can't say that I embraced cam hooking quite like my man, but those HB offsets saved my butt! Thanks for suggesting we practice putting the portaledge together beforehand. We even practiced with the rainfly, but we were spared from actually having to deploy it.

Alpine Rock Climbing
Immediately following our descent (via the North Dome Gully, a low point on our road trip), we left the Valley for higher elevation and more open space. Tuolomne Meadows is on the other side of the National Park and has a look and feel completely different from the spectacular, but crowded, Valley.

The climbing here was more like big day-hikes with a few hours of climbing in between first and second lunch (we eat Hobbit-style whenever possible). The views are expansive and open, the rock is knobby and full of friction, and the whole place just takes your breath away.

For those of you familiar, we got on Cathedral and Third Pillar of Dana, along with some cragging. Third pillar was totally rad with an overhanging 5.9 jughaul finish 5000ft above Mono Lake, Sick! Today (Saturday), it seems 'the Bay area'* showed up to do all of the 5 star routes, so we decided it was a good travel day to head down for our next locale, Mt. Russell. Turns out it's 110 degrees here in Bishop, so we're having an indoor day as we make our way south.


Thanks for all of your notes and emails... while it's fun living in a tent with each other, I know we both appreciate feeling connected with you all. - Rachel and Philippe



* So this Bay area thing... is it like when I grew up in New Jersey and told people I was from the New York area? the Tri-State area? Is that code for 'I don't really live in the coolest place, but near it'?

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