Big Sur and Piedras Blancas

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March 8, 2009

Carmel has to be one of the most charming towns in the country. I believe the shops and homes on the hilly tree-lined streets have jumped out of some fairy tale. We had breakfast with Frank and Gloria and Frank’s Fresno high school buddies at the popular Katy’s Place. Joe and I shared the Swedish pancakes (crepes filled with berries) and if we would be so lucky to live here, we’d become Katy’s regulars. We all went back to the beautiful house where the Fresno gang was staying for an hour, then Joe and I headed south down Highway 1.

We’ve seen a lot of beautiful sights in the past few years, and the Big Sur area rivals them all. I’d been on this stretch a couple of times before, but today was a warm sunny day and the ocean and cliffs were at their best. I’d forgotten how breathtakingly gorgeous it is and we stopped at least 8 times to take in the views. I’d also forgotten the road’s serpentine nature and was feeling a bit queasy toward the end of the worst of the curves.

We pulled into Piedras Blancas around 3:30 and met up with Joe’s friend, Jim, the site manager. Piedras Blancas is run by the BLM and is a few miles north of San Simeon. It has an old lighthouse that is missing its top and several rusting buildings. It is on a windy point where giant waves crash into the rocks. The name, Piedras Blancas (“white rocks” in Spanish) comes from the fact that sea birds have done an impressive job of whitewashing the larger offshore rocks.

Frank and Gloria arrived about 30 minutes after we did and Jim gave us a quick tour of PB’s 18 acres. Wildlife is everywhere. We have seen lizards, snakes, peregrine falcons, all kinds of sea and shore birds (lots of oystercatchers), gray whales, deer, sea otters, sea lions, and harbor seals. And best of all, there are about a hundred elephant seals of all sizes snoozing on the beach. These elephant seals have been coming to Piedras Blancas only since 1990. In years past, we twice drove farther north near Santa Cruz to Ano Nuevo State Park to see these magnificent creatures. They seem to have found another good spot to settle at Piedras Blancas.

We drove into the town of Cambria and ate at Moonstone Restaurant for yet another excellent seafood dinner. Back at our house in Piedras Blancas the four of us had a fun evening reminiscing about our Alaska days, catching up with each others’ lives, and discussing the remarkable day.

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Photos

Piedras Blancas Lighthouse
Note Orion's Belt above the Lighthouse

Comments

[Connie]

Great pictures! I loved the drive- Jim, not so much. We drove south through Big Sur, and realized he would have been better if we had driven south through Salinas, and north up the coast. Of course he wouldn't let me drive-

[J J]

Driving
I think it's better to drive through Big Sur the way you did (north to south) because you are on the side of the road closest to the ocean.

[Jim Brownell]

Tours of the light station are offered Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday Meet at the former Piedras Blancas Motel, located 1 /12 miles north of the light station, at 9:45 and depart promptly at 10:00. The price is $10, children under 16 are free.