To Monument Valley


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March 18th 2009
Published: March 21st 2009
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Our stay in Santa Fe was nice, if uneventful. It's a pretty town with cute manicured adobe houses and shi shi art gallerys. I had almost convinced Cem to go to the swanky tapas and wine bar La Boca for dinner, but even I could tell from looking at the menu selections, prices and artsy interior that this would not be a good choice. Cem is a simple guy, he likes tasty and large portions of food served in a down home setting. Standing on the curb, looking in the window, I could almost hear him say "I can't believe people pay that much for such a tiny plate of food." When the lady standing outside smoking a cigarette told us they frown upon people without reservations (even on a Monday Night) it capped it. She recommended a place called Del Churros which we managed to find with our GPS after circling the confusing Plaza for 10 minutes. It was perfect. A small but tantalizing menu of Mexican food and a a table by a roaring fire. The Green Chili Chicken Chowder was the the spiciest Mexican dish I have ever eaten, but I ate every last spoonful. To be frank,
Suzanne at Monument ValleySuzanne at Monument ValleySuzanne at Monument Valley

Look at my expression
there were consequences the next day -- my system is just not used to that many green chilis - but I had not a moment of regret. Cem was more than satisfied with his plate of Nachos and a stuffed Poblano pepper. sated, we returned to our room at the Silver Saddle where I promptly passed out in under three minutes. This is so unlike me - it usually takes me at least an hour to fall asleep - Cem remarked I should eat Mexican food more often, though I think it may have more to do with all the driving we are doing.

The next morning, We got an early start for our race across New Mexico to Northeastern Arizona. One of the top three things I wanted to show Cem on this road trip was Monument Valley, as I knew it would rival Cappadocia, Turkey in strange beauty and wonder. Even the drive itself was amazing. Thus far, we stayed off the interstate and I can't empahsize enough what a difference this makes. We drove over 250 miles of US, state and Indian highways cutting through canyon after canyon. Wide open expanses filled with mesas ands buttes colored in hues of red, orange, sand and pink. Just being in it gives you a feeling of utter freedom and possiblity. It made me wonder what it might feel like for a person who grew up in this alien wonderful land to find themselves in a city cloistered with buildings and people. Claustraphobic I'm sure.

We arrived at Monument Valley just before they closed the park. It was worth the trip. It was as grand as I remembered and Cem was sufficiently impressed. I will let my photos rather than words describe the beauty. You can elect to take a tour on one of the big open-air army-like trucks instead of driving your own car. They are run by the local Navajo Indians. I want to support the local community, but these tours always feel a little creepy to me, sort of exploitive and paternalistic. They take you down the private roads and you are allowed to photograph the Indians in their traditional hogans. I felt more comfortable supporting the community by purchasing their hand-made crafts, so we did the 17 mile loop in our car. My instincts were confirmed when we were coming around one particularly tight
Big Rock 400Big Rock 400Big Rock 400

Cem shot this from moving car - he's very proud of it
corner on the rocky upaved road and passed a tour group coming in the opposite direction. I was met with the most absurd sight of some half a dozen tourists sitting in the back of the truck all wearing sunglasses and white surgical masks. I realize it was kind of dusty out there, but they looked like they belonged in one of those apocalyptic end of the world plague movies being evacuated from the diseased town. But the ridiculous image gave Cem and I a good laugh for the rest of the loop, and a small measure of satisfaction for being savvy tourists.

Tommorow the Grand Canyon.

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