Tantoyuca (Mexico) to Scottsdale, Phoenix, Arizona (United States)

Apologies it has been some time since I last dropped a blog. Have been busy cycling across Mexico trying to keep on schedule. Not much hanging around after Tantoyuca. Have pedalled furiously. Hirsute and hunched over my bars with my bright yellow Bob trailer swishing behind me I swept through small villages like a gorilla selling bananas on a bicycle. Stopping only occassionally to refuel and devour large portions of everything in my sight Discovered the delightful concept of stuffed peppers.

Had three days off in Zacotecas. A beautiful colonial city built on the back of rich silver deposits. Highlight of time there was a visit to the mask museum. Loads of masks from all parts of Mexico each with a facsinating story. Sadly the displays were not interactive and was not allowed to try any of them on. Had to satisfy myself with just taking photographs. Other diversions included surprising mysely by winning a Tequilla drinking competition with a pour time of 12 seconds.

After Zacatecas had a week of very flat hot dusty desert. Crossed the Tropic of Cancer and hopped from town to town. Got to watch Celtic and Arsenal fall out of the Champion's league. Fortunately was spared the anguish of seeing Newcastle squander another EUFA campaign. Despite this emotional setback the Geordie Grappler continues to push north. His season is not yet over. Pedal Mungo pedal. During this period in the arid spiritual wasteland realised that I had begun talking to myself and speaking about myself in the third person. Interesting conversations but not necessarily a good sign.

Reached Hidalgo de Parral and after that entered the Sierra Madre montain range and the Copper Canyon national park for some of the best riding so far on my trip. Beautiful mountains, pine forests and quiet roads. Shortage of hotels, the scenery and plenty of quiet places to hide away encouraged me to start using my tent again. Got the old chap out of his bag and after a bit of trimming maintenance he was ready for action.

Before leaving Hidaldgo de Parral I did a Google search to try and work out if it was worth riding down to Batopilas (it probably is but I didn't think I had enough time and more honestly didn't fancy doing a 60km hill on unpaved road). I found Nancy and Randy's website and realised that they were travelling in the opposite direction to me, riding from Canada down to Argentina, and that our paths were probably going to cross in the next couple of days. Sent them an email introducing myself and set off for the town of Creel about 4 days ride away. Two days later I am passed by a file of motorbikers. We all give each other a little wave as we pass. A few moments later one of them turns around comes back and gives me Nancy and Randy's business card. The art of networking. We meet up int he next town and have a good day together swapping information about our routes and experiences. They have much slicker IT skills than me and after a pleasant evening meal, and a couple of beers, we retired to their bedroom and did a podcast interview which is now up on their site, www.hobobiker.com.

In Creel took a trip on the Copper Canyon railway. Was one of the things that I have been looking forward to doing for ages. Was a nice day out. Took a 2 hour ride to the next station Divisadero and then returned. Had a a nice chat with the nun sitting next to me. Showed her my Mexican wrestling mask. Then went and had a beer with the impressively bearded Michael from New Mexico. Have to say although I enjoyed the train journey riding through the Copper Canyon park was more fun than the train ride.

Back wheel started wobbling as I came out of the mountains. Hopped from town to town looking for a mechanic. Finally found one in Agua Prieta. Last thing I do in Mexico is get my back wheel fixed by Jesus. Turned up at his shop and he fixed my backwheel straight away. Thank you very much. When I explained that I was English Jesus told me that he knew, or at least was aware of Liverpool and the Bee Gees. So if you are a Scally with a passion for disco and need something doing to your bike when crossing the border you should definitely pay him a visit.

Pedal on a few more miles. Get to the middle of Agua Prieta. Ask a man where the border is. Of course he points and says "derecho" (straight ahead). Had been a bit nervous about crossing the border into the United States. Ride a few blocks, turn a corner and the colourful chaotic streets of Latin America that have been passing through for the past 14 months are replaced by a large pale brown wall. Had heard stories about bikers getting asked lots of questions. Turned out to be fine. Took off my Mexican wrestling mask, turned my accent up to ultra polite Hugh Grant mode got my passport swiped and just walked through the pedestrian enterance.

First nights in United States spent camping in RV land. Arizona at the moment is full of snowbirds people escaping from the cold winters in the north drive down to Arizona. These modern day nomadic tribesmen gradually accumulate in Arizona over the winter, play desert golf, listen to Country and Western music and form small community settlements that dissolve in the spring when Mother Nature turns the heat up. An old man with an artificial leg starts telling me about the problems he is having with the oil filter in his van and after 14 months of Spanish it feels strange being able to understand everything he is saying. For my part I am hamming up my accent at every opportunity and using phrases like "simply quite dreadful".

On the way into Tuscon see a lot of riders going the other way. Stop to buy a drink and talk to one of them, Dan from Seattle, it turns out they are doing a long distance race and trying to qualify for the next Paris Brest Paris race. When I mention what I am doing he says that he has a friend, Greg, doing that but going in the opposite direction. I met Greg in Peru last year in similar circumstances. Just turned the corner of a nondescript street in Huanuco and there he was. Small world when you travel on two wheels.

Randy and Nancy recommended that I visit Ajo bikes in Tuscon, Arizona. So sent them an email to let them know I was coming and then spent a morning with them whilst they helped me sort out my bike. Ended up buying a new pair of forks, headset and stem riser to give me a more comfortable riding position. Plus my trailer now has a hookworm full of monkey snot. Thanks very much Brad, Tracey and Relph for all your help. If you are passing through Tuscon on tour and your bicycle need some attention I would recommend you visit them.

Currently having a bit of time off the bike in Scottsdale, Phoenix. Staying with Spencer and Anne good friends from many years ago when I was an English teacher in Aomori, Japan. Also going to meet up with my dad tomorrow. Will start pushing again in about a week.

Anyway just the usual reminder to let you know that I am riding to try and raise money for Medecins Sans Frontieres. If you would like to make a donation please visit my website www.pushonnorth.com which explains how you can make a donation over a secure internet link (or if you prefer snail mail, by post).

Push on

Tim

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