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Published: February 28th 2013
Today begins with a little stress factor. Early rise after a not so early to bed to pack up, drive the almost 60 miles on gravel road out of McCarthy to a paved highway and hopefully without another flat tire, and then another 120 miles to Valdez before noon to catch the half day boat trip to Columbia Glacier in Prince William Sound and then check into a new place in Valdez for the next two nights. I should be regretting staying in McCarthy the extra day making today a rush but after that grand river raft trip yesterday, no regrets. Just the knowledge I’ll be pushing it again today.
I pray as I get stuff together and to the car knowing I’m a little anxious about driving the almost 60 mile McCarthy road again where I got the flat tire coming in. I remind myself the tire is competently repaired and now know where the spare is and how to change a tire on this car myself if needed (I think). Most of the anxiety is knowing I have that boat trip reservation so staying true to time will be critical. I relax by the time I drive off,
trusting that all will be well and if not, then it will be another unexpected yet rewarding adventure as was my drive in. I choose to take it as it comes and enjoy the ride no matter what. Feels great to be ready for another day…onward and forward.
In spite of the wet and cloudy ambiance as I drive the unique gravel road, the scenery is outstanding. It is somewhat clearer than driving in a few days ago so I see tops of mountains that were previously shrouded in swirls of clouds. Extraordinary! I stop a few times to appreciate the mountain views, the whisper of breezes through the trees, or the rushing of river or creek waters next to or under the road in spite of my constant reminders to self of the need to keep moving. The past days of rain have taken their toll on the road – water filled potholes, water running down mountains. There is one section where a part of the road had washed out. Fortunately, the wait was very short and I was directed through by construction workers on the one lane of the road still intact or already repaired. I have
another wait at the one lane wooden bridge. I laugh at the hesitation I had to drive over that bridge on the way in while I now watch six construction trucks cross. I then drive back over it myself, a lot more confidently than my first time across…awesome! Thanks to everyone’s prayers and positive thoughts sent – no flat tire on the way out. I must admit it was a relief to get to the paved road and then the Richardson Highway where I hope to make good time. I do make one stop as soon as I get to a major gas station. I purchase a tire gauge and check the air in my tires. It’s a good thing. The repaired tire is actually fuller than it should be, especially as compared to the others. The gentleman that repaired it was a little concerned because his gauges weren’t working that well. I let out air so the tire is accurate and matches the other three. Good to go and another concern put to rest.
Sunshine initially permeated the highway drive which magnified the widely varied hues of green on hillsides. Mountains new to me become apparent in the
distance though the weather begins to deteriorate as well. The closer I get to Valdez, the more striking the mountains and the worse the weather. The mountains are overwhelming at times, snowcapped and lining all sides. It is easy to understand why this drive and Valdez is called the “Switzerland of Alaska.” I had heard even those coming from Switzerland call it the mini-Alps. The power generated from them is incredible. A mixed cloudy, foggy sky keeps me wondering just how high some of the peaks climb because it is obvious I am not seeing the tops of many. Up, down, right, left, the road continuously winds to unveil what feels like a secret passageway. The fog levels increase, the clouds coming lower in the mountains, and the rain is now a drenching downpour making it difficult to see. I have wipers on high and still need to slow down. It is creepy, almost ghostlike, and I wonder if I will make it in time for the boat tour. Better to be safe I remind myself so I drive only as fast as the conditions warrant while still valuing every view. At one point there is no view, only sheer,
vertical stands of rock, magnificent pillars displaying massive cascades of water pummeling over rock outcrops, blaring over the soft music playing on the radio. I want to stop to take it in so badly but there is still hope of making the boat tour so I regretfully compel myself forward without stopping to take it all in. I wonder if the boat will even be going out and also ponder whether I want to be on it in this weather. I haven’t let weather of any kind hamper my travels or experiences yet so I’m not going to start now. If the boat goes out, I decide I want to be on it.
As the miles go by, the rain slows to a drizzle again and the fog shows signs of clearing. The clouds are still low so the mountains remain an eerie mystery – like you know they are there but never sure just how high and massive they really are. The road climbs and then recedes again. There are tall stands for signs to hang from that I assume hold snow/ice warnings in winter. I cannot imagine driving this during their winter but obviously, many must. Finally,
there is a long series of descents and I know I am close to Valdez. This is the only road in or out so there is more traffic as I head into town. My map directions to Stan Stephens Glacier and Wildlife Cruise dock are sound so I have no trouble finding it and parking. I am tempted to take my winter coat given the rain and chill but settle for layers to include full rain gear and my water proof boots. I arrive at the gate and am grateful because they have just boarded and not yet ready to take off so I am able to make the tour as scheduled. I choose an outside seat under a short overhang in spite of the cold. I get some hot cocoa. I take my seat as the boat maneuvers through the harbor to Prince William Sound. They have already begun broadcasting history and fact filled information but I am too distracted with just having actually arrived in time. So I sit back, sipping my hot chocolate, staring into the spacious waters surrounded by heavily snowcapped mountains and simply relish being here. It is raining; it is chilly, actually cold as
the boat gets underway, and absolutely fabulous! I smile inside and out. People must think I’m crazy since most venturing outside are complaining about the weather while I’m sitting there smiling away.
The more I relax, the more I listen to the commentary about this special area. I take some pictures but the rain and wind make picture taking quite challenging. I have a full day cruise tomorrow that will go this same route only further to the Mears Glacier, well beyond the Columbia Glacier of today’s ½ day trip. So I stop taking much in scenery pictures (can’t see much anyway with the clouds and fog) and focus on simply being there. Since I’ve already gotten pretty wordy today, I will also forego a lot of history and interesting facts I’m hearing today and instead cover those with tomorrow’s full day cruise report instead. The pictures will show you wildlife sightings from today – eagles (multiple), sea otters, and sea lions – at least what I could catch in pictures. We also saw a couple of whales but I didn't even bother to catch those in pictures today. That was all the wildlife we saw on this wet,
cold day and it was more than enough. Then there was the Columbia Glacier. I’ve seen Glaciers before (Glacier National Park) but the Columbia is a Tidewater Glacier where the terminus ends in a body of water (Prince William Sound) and calves periodically, producing icebergs. I included pictures of icebergs that of course do not do justice to seeing them in person. Aside from the awesome experience of sitting/standing on a boat passing these sometimes huge icebergs and then in front of the massive Columbia glacial ice - the crackling, popping, splitting sounds filling the otherwise serene surroundings. We are told that once you hear the sound of ice falling from the glacier (calving), it’s already happened – you missed it. We are privileged to actually witness it not just once, but twice. I took some pictures of the second occurrence but my camera is not specialized enough to capture it well and the ice falls into the Sound so quickly, it’s actually finished at almost the same time as we recognize it’s happening. Then, true to what they’ve told us, the deafening sound follows along with the surging tide of water when the ice strikes the water. It is
a distinctive sound and a special experience. Long after, I can still close my eyes, see what seems like powder hit the air as the ice chunks release from the massive glacier, the trivial change in the formation itself, and the swell of water as the ice hits the water while the crashing sound of its breakaway finally reaches us at the boat…an incredible phenomena and an experience I hope to memorize for when I close my eyes and think about it in the future. A crewman tells me every trip does not witness this event. We did so twice. How cool is that? It is worth all the rain and chill.
I befriended a family on the trip and we share Alaskan travel stories on our return. As we dock, the weariness of a fulfilling day begins to hit. I work my way through town and after a couple of wrong turns, find Wild Roses by the Sea Bed and Breakfast. I have never been a big fan of B&B’s but have been told they are some of the best accommodations in smaller towns such as these. I am pleased with my accommodation, especially since it is a
bit apart from the rest of the house’s bedrooms, virtually a private apartment. I have just enough energy left to make tuna melt sandwiches, organize just a little, meet Rose, and then settle in for a good night’s sleep. Lights out...Goodnight and God bless from Valdez, Alaska.
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