Alaska Day 18 - Black Ridge Lodge/Hiking

---

The morning started cloudy but pretty quickly began to clear - kinda. I take the beautiful drive back to Delta Junction. It is always nice to go back the other way because it is so different looking at the other side of the mountains and hillsides. The people at the Delta Junction major petro stop at the intersection of Alaskan and Richardson highways were very friendly and all accommodating. I sat and used the faster Internet which allowed me to get pictures uploaded for the couple days I had managed to catch up since I couldn’t do so at the lodge. It was almost like a little Internet Café and they had no problem with my sitting there for as many hours as needed with great coffee.

One of the new road side signs on the way to Delta Junction Fort Greely showed “Caution Air drops in progress.” I appreciated the forewarning but wasn’t sure what that actually meant. Do I watch for parachute drops coming out of planes or helicopters? Do I drive slower? Oh well…just kept moving while aware that I guess something might drop at some point. (More about Fort Greely back on Day 16 whenever I get to catching up on those.) On my way back, I stop at Fort Greely to see the Visitor Center but it is closed. I think I’m going to drive through but quickly stopped at a guard station where they comically reply it is not open for drive-throughs. Oh well, guess I at least gave them a good laugh for their day. The rest of the drive was uneventful so took only a few pictures since I would have taken most of the same shots two days ago. I am anxious to return to take the waterfall hike with Rowdy the dog.

I parked and Rowdy came to say hello. The minute I took my hiking boots out of the car and slung them over my shoulder, he started running around as if begging “can I come…can I come…please can I come?” Mike (owner) had told me last evening I could take him with me because this was part of his job – hiking with folks and making sure they get back safe and sound. I was glad to know I’d have the company. It’s kind of hard to hike by yourself saying “hey bear” all the time to make noise. I had already learned that bear bells are not really effective. Most folks here consider them a bear call to dinner. Bear spray (mace type thing) is much more effective but voice noise is still what is considered the best. One of the sports store folks I spoke with reminded me that it was good for bad human encounters as well though they really don’t hear of such problems up here. At least I’d have Rowdy to talk with. He was quite impatient with my preparations to leave and romped into the woods by the trail the minute I grabbed the bear spray can the Lodge had available and exited the door. Jason laughs when I say I take the spray to protect the dog but I have what I consider healthy anxiety in me about having Rowdy. From observations made already, I have no doubt this dog would stand between me and a bear or moose or whatever else might threaten. I would not want anything to happen to him so the spray truly is for the dog too!! If anything would happen (which is doubtful), while Rowdy would be working to keep me safe, I’d be able to get the spray out to keep him safe. I feel quite responsible for him on the trail as well. We follow the little trail through the woods behind the Lodge, Rowdy romping away and constantly coming back to make sure I was still on the trail. When we broke through to a large opening where the underground pipeline was, he ran quite a distance ahead. He found a tennis ball to play with, obviously left behind at some other point. We were both having so much fun already.

So my directions were to go through the woods until I got to the pipeline area and then turn right at the creek bed. So I came to what we would consider a creek bed in Wisconsin and went to turn right. Rowdy was way up the larger path already so I called him back. He gave me this strange look but then came a running like ‘won’t this be fun?!’ He charged into the woods with me and I followed what I thought was a trail but it didn’t take more than a quarter mile before I looked around and decided this couldn’t be right, especially since we were going away from the creek bed and I distinctly remember Mike saying to follow the creek bed including crossing it multiple times. So I returned to the larger open area and started walking further up and Rowdy began his run and romp and stomp again. He stopped much further up seemingly impatient with my slower gait. Then I saw it – THE creek bed which in Wisconsin would be considered more of a river bed but here in Alaska, definitely a creek bed. I laughed out loud at my folly and misinterpretation of the directions especially since this is where Rowdy had been waiting on me before. There was a simple flow of water going through – just enough to give the surrounding silence a constant dribbling brook sound. We began the ascent on the rocky creek bed from one side to the other.

I realize I am giving you a lot about the dog Rowdy but he was so special to have along, totally integral to this experience. I likely would have stopped fairly soon after seeing the first animal scat since I didn’t know if it was bear, moose, caribou or what but with Rowdy along, felt much safer. And he was so entertaining. The parts that were hard to navigate, he stuck right with me showing me where to step and being certain I got through, evidently very aware of my cautious steps. The easier parts (at least to him), he’d run ahead and then run back, romp over the rocky base and cross the creek looking at me like “come on, this is the easy part. Just follow me.” And then he’d frolic across again with that look of “here…just like this.” It truly was comical and yet very calming and encouraging. He even got me up a path over the creek that took us around a bend that seemed fairly treacherous – at least for someone not used to hiking on all the creek bed rocks. We kept going, farther and farther up and I kept looking around each bend wondering where the water fall would actually come in. The description given was it being a short and pretty easy trek. I had already learned that the interpretation from an Alaskan of a short and pretty easy trek was probably at a minimum moderate for someone like me so we trudged on; Rowdy acting like this was the easiest thing in the world. His joy in the experience was absolutely contagious and even though he was impatient with my stops to turn in circles relishing the surrounding magnificence, I had to keep doing it. At a couple of points we even stopped to just sit and listen to the creek’s increasing babbling sounds, the breeze kicking through the trees, and take in the surrounding splendor. Rowdy would sit there for a while and then bounce away to investigate whatever he heard, smelled, or saw in the woods, always checking back to see if I had restarted. What a hiking pal!! Those breaks were so precious. Deep breaths filled me with the smell of freshness, the noise of silence, the grandeur of mountain peaks and treed hillsides, the sense of spirit cleansing that only such a place can bring. It is a boundless freedom that I don’t have words for. It just is.

I finally call it quits in spite of not reaching the falls. Every bend we turn I think we are going to see them because the rocks on the side of the creek have increased in size and the creek has more water and flowing stronger. I know we are getting closer and really want to keep going but also know we have ground to cover to get back and given how warm it had become, a shower before dinner was going to be a requirement. Rowdy is already sensing my hesitation with each bend. Though excited with every twist, I tell him “last one” and then we’d still keep going (at least a half dozen times) with me thinking maybe the falls are right around that next bend. Rowdy does not seem surprised when I finally say that’s enough, let’s head back. He starts down and again shows me when and where to cross the creek to make it easiest. Rowdy is one very special dog.

We get back to the more open space of the pipeline and turn left. I had made the infamous hiker’s error in not taking note of where we came out of the trees into the clearing having been too distracted by the sights, sounds, smells, and overall ambiance of the experience. No need to panic – Rowdy is already well up the trail and knows exactly where we are headed. I trust and my confidence in Rowdy is not displaced. He waits for me right where we are to turn in. I follow his lead and we are on the last part of our excursion. He sprints ahead, always checking back with me to be sure I’m following. Then we are at the Lodge and I give my faithful companion applause and appropriate commendation. United we look forward, backward, and to each side as if “wow…wasn’t that so very cool.” The moments are replaced with reality. I go to my car to retrieve clean clothes and then Rowdy suddenly darts down the hillside from the Lodge. I try calling him back because I know he is not supposed to go down by the highway but he does not return. He is headed for the old roadhouse and I realize Mike’s truck is down there. He might have been my escort but it is obvious who holds his heart. I take a walk down there just to be sure Rowdy is with Mike and Mike realizes he is there. They are fine but glad I checked. On the way back, I chuckle to myself, delighted that both Rowdy and Mike share such camaraderie. They are the epitome of man and man’s best friend. It is a perfect end to a perfect afternoon and I feel privileged that Mike let me borrow Rowdy for the afternoon.

I am welcomed back by Jason and Kate. A cold beer while I cool down is just too hard to resist especially sitting deck side that allows the calm, disbelieving reassessment of what I’ve just experienced to solidify as a new, tangible memory. How fortunate I am to be here, to see, smell, hear, and feel everything about being here. The gratitude and appreciation for the occasion overwhelms and I work to withhold the tears of thanksgiving.

Another awesome dinner followed by some quiet time brings this wonderful Alaskan day to a close. Mike asks if I made it to the falls. I regretfully tell him no because it was getting late and I wasn't sure how much further they were. Thanked him profusely for the use of Rowdy. I doubt I would have gone as far without him along. Mike also mentions he was pleasantly surprised when I asked about hiking. Evidently most Americans stay for a night, maybe two, but never get out in the wilderness whereas Europeans and others do. He shared my happiness of a great day. Tomorrow I move on making note I could have easily made use of another day or two right here. It’s like I’m leaving each place with that “one or two more days sure would have been nice” mentality but I catch myself on those kinds of thoughts because I know I am so very fortunate to be doing what I am doing. It all still seems like an illusion. I close my eyes, deep breath, and reopen them to find it is very real. Thank you Lord and goodnight.

---

Photos

On the road
Clouds constantly changing

Tempting to stop
So serene.

OK - what does that mean?
What's dropping from air and what am I expected to do because that's in progress?!

Black Rapids Lodge
Truly in the middle of nowhere with gorgeous views

The real creek bed
In Wisconsin we'd call it a river bed!