Arriving in Valladolid at night, we fell victim to its inhabitants’ amiability. Everyone was eager to tell us where the hotel was, even when they had no idea. Dawn revealed a modest town more or less built on a grid system, and the fact that we had unwittingly passed our accommodation by about five times the night before. Ostensibly chosen for its proximity to the Mayan ruins of Chichén Itzá, Yucatán’s Valladolid was really serving as a surrogate hometown for Raúl, unable to spend the holidays in his own Valladolid thousands of miles away in Spain. The relaxed colonial town is
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