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May 6, Wednesday
I checked out of the hotel and got to the Vesca BMW dealer right at 9:00 am as they opened. After a bit of back and forth explaining what I wanted - the routine 12,000 mile service - I was told to expect it to be done by 4:00. So, since they didn't offer loaner bikes, unlike the Beaver Falls WI shop, I walked a few blocks to a big mall. Breakfast, coffee, and walking around the mall took up about two and a half hours, then I walked back to the dealer in the 90 something heat. I was hoping that they'd be done earlier so I could get some miles behind me but the mechanic, who is apparently the only guy in the place that speaks any English, came and told me that it would be done at 4, and that everyone goes to lunch between 2 and 4. I pointed out that if it was going to be done at 4, and everyone is out to lunch from 2 to 4, then it would have to already be done by 2. He acknowledged that was the case, then told me the bike wouldn't be
done until 5. Great. So I sat down in the lobby and read until the bike was ready. At 6. then I went through the process of signing and paying. At about 6.30, I hopped on Bear and started my trek north. My intention was to get as far north as I could prior to sunset. Once out of the city of Veracruz, I was making pretty good speed until I pulled out to pass a double trailer semi truck, rolled on the throttle, and suddenly started fishtailing like crazy. I got straightened out, finished passing the truck and started wondering why the fishtailing. About another 1 to 2 km along, I heard a sudden hissing sound, and then master caution light and a bunch of other alarms started going off on Bear. I realized it was an oil issue, immediately turned off the main road on to a convenient side road and got the bike turned off. Stepping off the bike, I saw oil still draining out of the bottom. The drain plug had come completely out. Thank God that it was still sitting on the skid plate or I'd still be standing there on the side of the road wondering what to do. A guy on a bicycle came by and hung around while I pulled out my tools to replace the drain plug. Unfortunately, the tool I didn't have was a 13 mm socket or wrench to remove two bolts holding on the skid plate. A local taxi rolled up and the driver got interested. When I explained what I needed, he took off for the mechanico down the road and returned shortly with a 13 mm socket and driver. Off came the skid plate, in went the drain plug, well tightened this time, and in went the one quart of 20w-50 oil I had with me. I didn't want to start the bike up with only one quart of oil in it, so the taxi guy took a look at the oil container, and took off down the road again returning with 3 more quarts of the exact same oil. How cool is that? Once filled, I started up Bear, and he sounded fine. I paid the taxi guy 150 pesos, and thanked the bike guy for hanging around. He told me there was a hotel just around the bend on the side road, so I rode there and asked the lady who came out if she had a room for the night. I understood the no part, but the fast paced monologue that followed completely lost me. When she stopped, I had to ask again, followed by another fast statement of which all I got was a reference to somebody's brother. Finally a guy came over, beckoned me to follow and led me across the hotel grounds, out the back gate, down the dirt road, and he banged on the gated entrance of a really nice house. A guy comes out, opens up, and leads me to a small guest house. Turns out the guy inside is the brother of the lady that runs the hotel, and he let me stay in the guest house. Wow. Nice people.
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