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Published: June 12th 2006
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don Valente
Don Valente making a piece of Barro Negro Pottery Friends,
Today we had the opportunity to tour a few small pueblos just outside of Oaxaca City. We met at the INstituto Cultural Oaxaca where we departed shortly after 9am.
Our first stop of the day was San Bartolo Coyotepec, a village famous for its barro negro (black pottery) not so different from Santa Clara and San Ildefonso pottery in New Mexico. Upon arriving in the quaint village we were welcomed by Valente Nieto Rael, a 75 year old potter and son of Juventino NIeto and the well known master potter, Rosa Real Mateo. Our morning began with a demonstration by NIeto Real who immediately informed us that there would be no electric nor pedal potter's wheel in use, instead the potter simply had two bowl shaped plates in which he placed the first one (face down) and stacked the second one (face up). Ato the face up plate he placed a flat plate which served as his potter's wheel for shaping the earthen vessels. In creating a work the potter would spin the wheel by slapping the clay with his left hand while creating a hole and subsequently molding the piece with his right hand while balancing the
Barro Negro
This is the famous Barro Negro Pottery of San Bartolo Coyotepec clay carefully atop the base resting on two bowls.
The clay is gathered from a local mountain and looks like volcaninc rock. It is then prepared by soaking it in water for several days and then straining it through screens in order to remove the roots, leaves, and small rocks. In shaping the pieces, don Valente used a 1/2 moon shaped instrument made from the same clay and a strip of bulls skinfor smoothing the exterior and rim. The entire process for making a piece is 30 days as don Valente continuously reminded us. Decoration for the outside of the pieces is done by using reeds collected from a local river. These reeds are used for scraping designs and peforations of the exterior. Other designs include pastillaje which are decoradtions done without carving or imprinting the original piece.
After the jug has dried for 25 days, potters may perform the calada which is a technique of cutting perforations into the vessel which is easy and clean. The next part of the process was created in 1952 by doña Rosa and soonthereafter used throughout the village. The technique known as brunir (polishing the pot) is done with a piece
doña rosa
Here is a picture of the famous doña Rosa who revoltionized Barro Negro with thepolishing technique she created in 1952. of stone which resembles quartz. The polishing process is a long one but serves another purposeof compacting the clay and giving it more strength.
The final process in completing a piece is its firing. Pieces are placed in large outdoor hornos similar to that for cooking maguey plants for mezcal. In firing the pots there are 2 options. The first (8-9 hours) leaver the pottery greyish in color (the original color of the village's pots) and can be used as a vessel for water and mezcal. The second method (12-14 hours) produces the shiny black pieces which ar not adequate for carrying liquids. The presentation ended with don Valente proudly displaying proclomations made in his honor and pictures which include him with famous people such as Mexican singer Luis Miguel, Pope John Paul II, former President Jimmy Carter, and former Mexican president Carlos Salinas de Gotari.
The next stop on our tour was San Martin Tilcajete, a village where alebrijes (carved and painted wooden figurines) are traditionally made. In San Martin Tilcajete we were welcomed by Jacobo and Maria Angeles for another fabulous demonstration. The alebrijes are made from a local tree known as the copal. In the
carved copal
These figures are carved copal ready to be painted. gathering of the tree, villagers distinguish the male (whose red bark is used for pigment) and the female (whitish bark). All colors used in painting the alebrijes is derived from the copal and is determined by adding substances in order to change the ph level. Additives include, lime juice, honey, baking soda, and lime (cal). The copal also produces a berry which is harvested for the resin it produces that serves for sealing in insecticide (against termites) and serves as a protector against the sun.
Our group was treated to a wonderful pigment demonstration by Jacobo and we were invited to watch the Ängeles family paint the alebrijes with traditional Zapotec designs. Next, we went to the carving shop where the copal trunks have their bark removed with machetes and are then finely carved using chisels and knives. From there they are ready to be paintedand then distributed for sale. OUr last activity in San Martin was to stimulate the local economy by purchasing these alebrijes. Almost every student bought at least one figurine and Lourdes will soon receive a pinkish/magenta colibri (hummingbird).
Our last stop was to Santo Tomas Jalietza where we stopped at a local mercado
alebrijes workshop
´The alebrijes are handpainted in a workshop. to view their textiles. In the market were indigenous women weaving purses, belts, blouses, and table place mats and runners. After the students finished viewing and further stimulating that local economy we were ready to head back to Oaxaca City. We arrived about 3pm and I personally was ready to watch some futbol (WORLD CUP BABY!!) and take a nap.
Tomorrow we head for the ruins of Monte ALban. Thanks for reading. --JOHN
##LOURDES and REINA, Our separation is 1/2 over and please remember that your papi and husband loves you both and misses you very, very much.....Wish you were here. XOXOXO
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Arthur
non-member comment
How is the city
Ive read that the teachers are striking on the centro historico. I am planing on visiting Oaxaca this next week for the first time , but Im afraid the teacher s holdling might ruin access to the touristic areas??? How are things down there? Thanks