I am always overwhelmed by the history and culture of Latin American countries. The dates are mind boggling to those of us who think that something that dates back to the 1800's is old. I have been spending a few days in Guadalajara, Mexico ( founded in 1542) with my daughter and her 6 year old son. Linda is doing some work at ITESCO( a technical University) as part of her research into bi-lingual studies. Having spent some time in Oaxaca, Mexico a few years ago, I was not fully prepared for the wild traffic and noisy bustle that is part of a city of from 5 - 8 million ( depending on who you talk to) inhabitants.
Thankfully I was able to meet a Delta Kappa Gamma sister, Maria Eugenia, and visit with her and her husband in their beautiful home in Zapopan, a more residential area of Guadalajara. I was aware that Oct. 12 was a holiday but thought it might be connected with Columbus Day. Oh no, in Guadalajara it is all about the Virgin de Zapopan. She usually resides in the Basilia, built in 1730, which is the largest pilgrimage site in Mexico. This little statue( it is only about 15 inches tall) leaves the Basilica in March and visits every church in Guadalajara for a few days. Then on Oct. 12 she returns home amidst great celebration. It is a holiday in Guadalajara and every thing is closed. The procession starts about 6 AM from the catherdral in the center of Guadalajara and winds its way slowly up to the plaza in front of the Basilica in Zapopan. Now here is the great part - this procession and event has been taking place since 1606!
Maria took us the day before the big event to see the church and all the preparations that were being made. The streets surrounding the basilica and leading up to the plaza where an outdoor mass would take place were already filling with people staking out their spots for their booths that would sell coca-cola, tacos, tortillas, beer, ice cream, water, religious trinkets, huge wooden cruxifixes, or games of chance. There was an air of not only a religious festival but a carnival in the preparations. Balloons were being blown up in the shapes of Spiderman, Sponge Bob and Dora the Explorer. Pin wheels spun in the breeze and gaudy purple and pink stuffed animals and dolls were being hung up on the stalls where games of chance and skill were being set up. Policeman arrived wearing bullet proof vests while sitting on handsome horses while others crowded into the backs of pick-ups trucks. Over a million people were expected to be in the procession so some 'crowd control' was in order. " It will all be on TV tomorrow", Maria told us. We watched the next day feeling very lucky to have had the privilege of being at the same place where it was all taking place.
The church itself was small, by usual basilica standards. Men and women of all ages were approaching the church carrying formal bouquets or home made ones to be placed on the altar. Many of them made their way to the altar on their knees. Others, who just came to pray, also crept up on their knees. Prayers were being said in unison as people came in and out of the church.
This type of religious/cultural event that has taken place for 401 years is not unique to the people of Mexico. It thrives in the streets of Antigua, Guatemala during Semana Santa or in Cusco, Peru during the procession for Corpus Christi. I am in awe of the faith that these cultures have in a religion brought by the conquerors from Spain so many years ago. Maria told us that the Huichol Indians in Zapopan followed the Franciscans because they wanted the schools and health care that the Franciscans provided. But as each generation passed the people have become more Catholic than Indian in their beliefs.
I often wonder how lonely or lost the immigrants from these countries, who are now working in the US, must feel when a special holy day is being celebrated and they have no peers to share it with.
We are spending a few days in Ajijic, a small village on Lake Chapala . It is about a 45 minutes ride from Guadalajara. Ajijic was founded in 1531 and still retains a lot of its heritage despite being a haven for ex-pats from the US and Canada. This morning we walked to the lovely plaza where there were many welcoming benches surrounding an elegant bandstand. The perfect spot for people watching on a Saturday morning.
Adios, Carolina
Mexico's Flag
Map of Mexico