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Mexicos flagPublished: April 30th 2012North America » Mexico » Guanajuato » San Miguel de Allende
April 17th 2012

Saturday, February 25th, 2012



Sometimes people say things and give me no time to rearrange my face.

Take last week, for example. I was at a literary event and a woman came up and asked me to sign her book. "Really?" I said. "You can do better than me." "Don't be silly, she insisted. "I'm thoroughly enjoying your story. It's a real page turner." "Oh," I replied, and just out of curiousity asked her, "what page are you on?" "Two," she said brightly, handing me her pen.

A similar thing happened at a neighbourhood get-together. A woman I had known for a long time confided that she and her husband were getting a divorce. This came as a surprise since, over the years, I had repeatedly heard her boast about having the "best damn marriage". "We have the best damn marriage in town," she would say to others less fortunate, who were bemoaning spousal neglect or infidelity or worse. She was a role model for our times, I figured. So, when I heard that the two of them were no longer a couple, my expression must have given away my astonishment. Without missing a beat, however, she leaned over and squeezed my arm in a smug sort of manner. "Not to worry," she said. "We now have the best damn divorce."

In the days leading up to our departure for Mexico, we ran some last-minute errands, which included a trip to the Vancouver Currency Exchange. As we rounded the corner by Chapman's Ladies Wear, a distinguished establishment that matches its swanky South Granville address, I noticed a woman dressed in a plaid coat coming our way. She was tall and looked scowlingly fierce, at least that's how I remember her in hindsight. She bumped against Ron, knocking him on the shoulder. "Excuse me," he said, automatically, which is Canadian shorthand for anything that might or might not be your fault. Without a word, she veered sharply to the left, zeroed in on me, and with a powerful shove sent me plowing into the plate glass window of Chapman's Ladies Wear. It was one of those moments that takes the breath right out of you, so deliberately aggressive that you wonder if it's real or if you just imagined it. Several seniors stopped to stare. Ron helped me to my feet and dusted me off, but by then all we could see was the hem of her coat disappearing in the distance. Shakily, I made my way to the Currency Exchange and joined the line of travellers who were there to change dollars into Euros and yens. "Now, where are you off to?" said a woman standing next to me in line. I told her Mexico and watched her face pucker in disapproval. "Dangerous," she hissed, turning away as if I was somehow putting the whole line-up at risk. I fingered my bruises and tried to think of something to say in Mexico's defense, but knew there was no point in it. The fact that I had just been assaulted on Granville Street, in broad daylight, for no other reason than mental illness and pure maliciousness, wouldn't stack up against all the bad press that Mexican tourism had been receiving. So, I stood quietly, suppressing conflicting feelings of amusement and rage.

I'm sure that there are more absurd things in life, but at that moment, standing in line and waiting for my pesos, I'd be damned if I could think of them.







Monday, March 5th, 2012

The sign in the bathroom stall read, "Deposite su toella feminina aqui. Deposit your lady napkin here." And once again, I was reminded how good it was to be back in Mexico.

I happen to be a collector of sayings and signs. Lately, I sighted a bumper sticker that was perfect for my 6-year-old grandson, and I couldn't wait to try it out on him. It read: "Do not meddle in the affairs of dragons for you are crunchy and good with ketchup." It's just the thing for my little chum, who loves fantasy, french fries and has a cracking good sense of humour. And of course there's my favourite sign of all times, stuck to a car parked in an unofficial lot. "PAY OR BE TOAD!" it warned, which spoke volumes about its author's ability to differentiate between amphibians and the trucking services of the local automobile association.

I have a cache of these sayings and from time to time I take them out, like smooth, round stones, and polish them up. "Pray to God but row to shore." "Bark less. Wag more." "If it's not one thing... it's your mother." But here in Mexico, personal respect is a big deal and I think the term "lady napkin" has a nice, if somewhat lascivious, ring to it.



Thursday, March 15th, 2012

I have never been one for celebrity sightings. It stems back to a day in first grade when the entire school was marched two miles in the rain to catch a glimpse of The Queen.

I remember quite a bit of it: trudging up to Blanca Street in my black patent mary janes, skinny legs pumping madly to keep up to the bigger kids, the nubbly wool coat that smelled like wet dog, Queen Elizabeth's white glove, pressed to the fogged window of a black limousine. I was soggy. I was indignant. I was six years old. Equally indignant, it turns out, was my grandmother. "What is your principal's name?" she demanded, as she plunged me into a hot bath. "Mr. Hazard," I told her, a bit fearful of what she would do with this treacherous piece of information. "That man IS a hazard," she said, without missing a beat.

I mark this as the day I fell deeply in love with words.

Fast forward fifty-five years into the future, to San Miguel and my date with Toller. Toller Shalitoe Montague Cranston, in case you're wondering. The most influential figure skater of this century, World and Olympic Bronze Medalist, professional artist, and (drum roll, please) full-time resident of San Miguel de Allende. All right, not exactly a date. Perhaps not even an introduction. But enough to send me into a lather of anticipation, imagining Toller Cranston seated across the room, his breathtakingly famous legs crossed casually at the ankle, engaging someone in rapt conversation about... what? Triple salchows? The merits of acrylics versus oils? I know nothing of these subjects and couldn't imagine what I would talk to him about, really. It would be difficult to find a patch of common ground.

Still, this was an occasion that called for a pair of support pantyhose and a trip to the beauty parlour. If I had know that I was about to have my hair washed with a wooden ladle over a bucket of lukewarm water, then patted into pin curls and sprayed to within an inch of its life, I would have called the whole thing off. Ditto, if I had realized that the term "support pantyhose" was simply a cruel euphemism for a long-legged girdle. Trussed up like a Thanksgiving turkey and repelled by the image of myself as glimpsed in the front hall mirror, I clung to whatever shred of dignity remained and prepared to meet The Canadian Legend.

Toller, as it turned out, couldn't make it that night. Instead, I got to hang out with our hosts, Anita and Mel, with whom I do have a lot in common. Had it not been for the girdle, I could have been completely at ease; at one point I considered taking it off. But then I would have had to ask Anita for a pair of her underpants and I didn't think we were on such close terms. Yet.

There's a life lesson in this, don't you think? When it comes to the complicated language of art, or opera, or figure skating, even, I am out of my depth. But it's a kind of talent in itself to be an audience and that's where I come in. Not everyone can be a figure skater. There have to be those, up there in the stands, marvelling at the dizzying twirls and the gravity-defying splits, who can love and appreciate what they have been privileged to see. So if I can't be a shining example, I might as well be an excellent observer, a shameless eavesdropper, notepad in hand.

Best of all, I have always wanted to write the words "triple solchow". And now I have.

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Elizabeth Morantz and Ron Roth
A traveler sees what he sees. A tourist sees what he has come to see. - G.K. Chesterton ... full info
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Comments
Date: 30th April 2012

love it
Keep on blah, blah, blahing. Are you in Mexico now?

From Blog: HABLA BLAH BLAH...
Date: 30th April 2012


I loved reading your rambling words, and yes, I agree that there is a talent in being an audience . "Someone has to listen", the mother of two musicians once told me, when I'd asked if she herself played an instrument. Someone does need to listen, observe, and feel what is being expressed by those who have talent, just to absorb and reflect what they are expressing. They need us to to make the performance whole. Next time though, wear panties under your pantyhose. Carolyn carolyn

From Blog: HABLA BLAH BLAH...
Date: 30th April 2012

Good read, Liz!
Still traveling I see. Enjoyed your "stories". Would love to hear more "sayings". By the way, I read all the pages of your book and thoroughly enjoyed it! Cheers, Sydney

From Blog: HABLA BLAH BLAH...
Date: 30th April 2012

Wondering where in the world you were this winter :)
Great to catch up on your travels-you always whet the appetite for the next experience. Perhaps when you return to Canada we could get together for a drink or two. Ps love the pin curl visual!

From Blog: HABLA BLAH BLAH...
Date: 30th April 2012

Capturing the essence of so many situations
OH WOW, Liz, I was captivated by your exquisite photos, moved by your heartfelt experiences and impressed with your talent of tying it all together with candour and with humour. Thank you for sharing your interesting sign quotations. Well done! Miri xoxoxo

From Blog: HABLA BLAH BLAH...
Date: 30th April 2012

Thanks god...Mexico isn't as dangerous as Granville St!
ah HA! I knew it. Professional writer secretly squirreled away in SMdA. Thank you for taking the time to write up a little something for TB, your written word is gold.

From Blog: HABLA BLAH BLAH...
Date: 1st May 2012

Stringing together different incidents
I really like the way you string together different incidents into a coherent, entertaining story. I very much enjoy reading your blogs.

From Blog: HABLA BLAH BLAH...
Date: 1st May 2012

That was fun.
Very nicely done, Liz. Always enjoyable reading your posts.

From Blog: HABLA BLAH BLAH...
Date: 1st May 2012

Lost for words
Liz you have done it again. you make a few little tid bits very, very interesting.

From Blog: HABLA BLAH BLAH...
Date: 1st May 2012

Laughing at work....
Your last line has me laughing at my desk, pretty noticeably too... And I love the title! Genius!

From Blog: HABLA BLAH BLAH...
Date: 2nd May 2012


Just having a quick read of one or two blogs on the travelblog.org site and this one caught my eye. Very funny and very well expressed. Thanks for a laugh. From a Jet Lagged Aussie with two Jet Lagged Children Who Needed a Laugh.

From Blog: HABLA BLAH BLAH...
Date: 2nd May 2012

Bumper Stickers and Figure Skaters
Heya!! I sure enjoyed reading your entries. I really like how you mix bits from your past with the experiences of your present. That is probably my favourite part of travelling, how new things stir up old things in your mind and how one ends up connecting the two. Bumper stickers are great ambient fun. My personal favourite: ONLY USERS LOSE DRUGS Figure skating is a bit of an obsession in our family. I'd watched it quite a bit as a child, but Battle of the Blades was what got the bunch of us hooked. We were quite saddened to hear that it won't be returning to the CBC lineup this coming autumn. Since we only have one channel to watch we regard this as a terrible loss! Sure hope you get to meet Mr. Cranston eventually. Whatever happens, keep those blogs coming into my inbox...I read them all. Luv, Kev

From Blog: HABLA BLAH BLAH...
Date: 3rd May 2012

Amazing
It truly is a world where you never know what to expect coming from another persons mouth. Your experience outside Chapman's (store I remember since a young girl) astounds me but on the other hand people have changed and don't remember the words "be kind and polite". It is so true, how everyone is criticizing Mexico as a tourist place due to the dangers and yet we only have to look out our back door to see the same. I find cultures like Mexico the people want to please and go out of their way to be kind and accommodating. The warmth and love found in those countries heals my soul. Toller Cranston was overwhelming as a skater and I heard he had moved to Mexico and was also an artist. I am an avid watcher of ice skating whether for World Competition or Olympics. I love the beauty, artistry and determination of the skaters. What talent they have and achieve. Amazing you crossed paths. Your pantyhose and beauty parlor experience had me laughing so hard and too bad about the underpants! I assume you are in Mexico again on your annual trip to help the people at the clinic. I look forward to reading all your future blogs. ALSO, NOTE, I HAVE A NEW EMAIL ADDRESS AS NOTED IN THE COMMENT PAGE ABOVE.

From Blog: HABLA BLAH BLAH...
Date: 4th May 2012

Keep on having a great time travelling.
The pictures and the blogs are inspiring!

From Blog: HABLA BLAH BLAH...
Date: 13th May 2012

Thanks
You write so well! I love love love reading your blog. It makes me smile, makes me smirk, makes me nod my head in agreement. It makes me wish that I had a way with words like you do :)

From Blog: HABLA BLAH BLAH...
Date: 16th May 2012

go Figuh!
Loved hearing from you and all your exploits! Glad you're having a spanxing good time!

From Blog: HABLA BLAH BLAH...




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