Respite in La Paz...

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Mexicos flagPublished: November 2nd 2009North America » Mexico » Baja California Sur » La Paz
November 1st 2009

San Ignacio riverSan Ignacio river
San Ignacio river

It's hard to believe that it is this beautiful, tranquil river is what caused all the destruction in San Ignacio. Flooding of the river wiped out many businesses and completely destroyed the road leading into town.
It's been 9 days since we last blooged and it's hard to think of how to begin recounting the adventures. We've made it to La Paz- our final stop along the Baja Peninsula before we trek it over to the mainland. The city with it's quaint cobblestone Malecon (boardwalk) and abundance of palapas on the beach is the perfect place to recharge our batteries (both electronic and human), and catch our breath.

Our time in Baja California Sur has been quite different from our initial Mexican introduction in el Norte. The Southern desert, having been hit by hurricane Jimana just two months ago, is a vibrant green highlighted by pink, yellow and purple (allergy inducing) flowers. We've crossed the Sierra Gigante mountain range (complete with almost 340 degree switchbacks), sun bathed on pristine beaches (though flanked by big trailers at times), braved 45 km/hr head and cross winds, and long stretches without any signs of civilisation (or more importantly: cold beverages).

In a few days (we've yet to give up on hitching a ride on a sailboat across to the mainland), we'll say goodbye to Baja, and archive the adventures this stretch of land has offered us over the
Hurricane JimenaHurricane Jimena
Hurricane Jimena

We caught our first glimpse of Hurricane Jimena's legacy as we rolled into San Ignacio. The oasis (picture a forest of palm trees in the middle of a desert!) was washed out when the storm hit the coast HARD two months ago.
past three weeks. We can hardly contain our excitement about learning about ancient civilisations, discovering hidden (or at least little known) beaches and exploring variations on the culture we've immersed ourselves into. Mexico and all that it has to offer are just a boatride away.... I hope they're ready for us.

*I've added more pictures to our last blog post, but haven't gotten around to scouring my journal for more interesting excerpts about Baja California Norte. I guess some stories will just have to wait to be told in person!

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Fellow travellers on two wheels..Fellow travellers on two wheels..
Fellow travellers on two wheels..

Though these two wheeled travellers were moving a little bit faster...
The Sea of Cortez!The Sea of Cortez!
The Sea of Cortez!

There it is! Ocean... and on the East!
Crawling through canyonsCrawling through canyons
Crawling through canyons

We had seen the sea of cortez from the top of the hill... But we had to work hard to make it there! After a 'devil' of a downhill (as translated from the road sign), we climbed up canyon after canyon until finally coming to Santa Rosalia.
Sunrise over the ocean....Sunrise over the ocean....
Sunrise over the ocean....

After spending months of watching beautiful sunSETS on the west coast, it was nice to see the sunRISE over the water in the East. This picture was taken from our tent at an RV park in San Lucas (south of Santa Rosalia)
In front of Bill's...In front of Bill's...
In front of Bill's...

We stayed with Bill, whose house was spared, but just barely. The water level was up to his doorstep...
Mulege...Mulege...
Mulege...

quaint little mulege: so much had been washed away, but slowly the city was rebuilding. Thoughts crossed our mind about staying and helping with hurricane relief, but relief efforts were already well on their way, and with our lack of skilled labor and muscle, we wouldn't be very helpful
Santispac... beautiful as promisedSantispac... beautiful as promised
Santispac... beautiful as promised

Our first real Mexican beach-bumming experience on the bay of conception. We have so many memories of this beach: Nicholas saving a sailor's life, the wonderful Canadian farmers Helene and Alben who were so generous with their enthusiasm and inspirational spirit, learning about friggots (a bird) and pelicans from cruising couple Adele and Steve... From as far back as Orange County, people had been telling us about the magic of Santispac- we're glad we heeded their recommendations and decided to stay the night!
Birds...Birds...
Birds...

I've never been much of a birdwatcher but....
The way it should be...The way it should be...
The way it should be...

Cooking over a fire made from driftwood on the beach... don't know how much better it could be... (picture taken on Requeson, another beach on the bay of conception)
RobertaRoberta
Roberta

We stayed with Roberta in Juncalito (south of Loreto). There we met Mooch the cat, and Captain Ray... and had a blast!
Thanks Roberta!Thanks Roberta!
Thanks Roberta!

we're terrible at taking pictures of all the wonderful people who have made our trip wonderful. luckily, we managed to whip out our cameras to snap a quick one of Roberta- an amazing artist who welcomed us into her awesome palapa and pampered us with good food and fun stories before we set off to conquer the mountains.
Nicholas... the sailorNicholas... the sailor
Nicholas... the sailor

Captain Ray was kind to invite us onto his home. I got my first taste of the cruising life, and Nicholas got to pretend he was living his dream!
Bring on the hills...Bring on the hills...
Bring on the hills...

We left Roberta, Captain Ray and Juncalito to face the mountains!
View from the top-ish...View from the top-ish...
View from the top-ish...

We made it to the top (barely), battling 30km/hour head and cross winds. Little did we know, the flats (and slight downhill) that followed wouldn't be any easier, as the fierce headwind wouldn't allow us to push any faster than 10km/hour.





Comments
Date: 14th November 2009

translation
11月1日 先回ブログを書いてから9日も経ってしまった。どの冒険から書き出したものやら悩んでしまう。Baja半島での最後の地、La PazからMexico本土に上陸した。古風な石畳のMalecon{広い通り}とPalapasのある海岸の町で、我々のリチャージをするのに(電気的にも、肉体的にも)、もってこいの所で、本当に一息いれた。 Mexico本土のEl Norteは、Baja カルフォルニア半島とはだいぶ印象が異なる。 南の砂漠、それは、ピンク、黄、紫(アレルギーを起こす)などの花に彩られている、すさまじいまでの緑の原だ。そこは、2か月前にジャマイカを襲撃したハリケーンに襲われた。 SierraGigante山脈を越え(完全な340度のジグザグ道)、清澄な海岸で陽に焼かれ(時々大型トレイラ-にあおられたが)、時速45Kmの強風に逆らい、行けども行けどもひと気のない長い道のり{つまり冷たい飲み物に長いことありつけず}を駆け抜けた。 2,3日内に(本土までの海路を、船でヒッチしようという策をまだあきらめていない)、これまで3週間の間、様々な冒険の記録を提供してくれたBajaカルフォルニア半島とも、おさらばだ。 まだ、古代の文明に出会っていないし、人跡未踏の海岸をみつけてもいないし、異文化を探求もしていない。しかしそれらは、この渡船が授けてくれるだろうし、そう期待している。 先回のブログに写真を付け足した。Baja カルフォルニア半島のもっと面白いものがたくさんあるのだが整理できていない。多分、個々人に会って話しするまで待ってもらわなくてはいけないかもしれない。

From Blog: Respite in La Paz...




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