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North America » Greenland » East Greenland » Ammassalik
August 15th 2011
Published: October 6th 2011EDIT THIS ENTRY

Evening lightEvening lightEvening light

Tiniteqilaaq, East-Greenland
for english scroll down



Na onze opwarming langs de warme bronnen van Ijsland, stapten we in een veel te klein propellervliegtuigje richting de grootste witte vlek op het noordelijk halfrond: Groenland. Gedurende een kleine 3 weken, dompelen we ons in een avontuur in de onherbergzame, arctische wildernis van Oost-Groenland, net onder de poolcirkel, waar ijsberen regeren en breed lachende Inuit je het dorp uit jagen met niks meer dan goede moed en een ferm geladen geweer.

Samen met onze long time friends, Dries en Ellen, vertrekken we voor een zelf georganiseerde expeditietocht langsheen de ongerepte, met gigantische ijsbergen gevulde, fjorden, over ruige passen en doorheen de lege tundra-valleien van het verre noorden. Een aantal weken de wildernis in, ver weg van elke vorm van menselijke beschaving, kan niet zonder een ferme voorbereiding, ook al is elke komende dag zo onvoorspelbaar als de nacht. Het vervolg laat zich al raden: we zouden de komende weken geen menselijk spoor zien, horen of ruiken.

De opwarming van de aarde laat zich volgens de Inuit geweldig voelen in Groenland. Niet alleen smelten de gletsjers van het landijs op Groenland aan een rotvaart af, maar ook het elk jaar toenemende afsmeltend pakijs op de noordpool, brengt meer ijsberen
MirrorMirrorMirror

Sermilikfjord, East-Greenland
met de golfstroom naar de regio. Waar de regio in de zomer normaal gezien "ijsbeervrij" is, worden de laatste jaren meer en meer ijsberen gespot in volle zomer in de fjorden en rond de Inuit-dorpen. In Kulusuk, het dorp waar we landen, horen we vele verhalen van ijsbeerincidenten van de afgelopen weken.

De jager die ons met zijn bootje afzet ver in een afgelegen fjord, "verplicht" ons om een geweer mee te nemen. Maar we hebben nog nooit een geweer vast gehad? "No problem, it is very easy, you aim in direction of bear and just shoot at chest or head", lacht de Inuitjager.

We hebben al redelijk wat avonturen op onze kerfstof, maar wat we in Groenland beleven, overtreft al onze dromen die we ooit over deze bestemming hadden. Nekspier tartende granietwanden die uit de fjorden en valleien als messen de lucht in klieven, eeuwig durende zonsondergangen, gigantische gletsjers die de fjorden vullen met ijsbergen de grootte van het Boudewijn stadium. En dan hadden we het nog niet gehad over onze nieuwe hobby: gletsjerrivieren doorwaden die onze benen en voeten doen verlangen naar meer zuidelijke bestemmingen...

We kunnen boeken vullen met onze belevenissen, maar laat vooral een
Arctic HousingArctic HousingArctic Housing

Tiniteqilaaq, East-Greenland
selectie foto's je mond doen openvallen, waardoor wij afgelopen zomer een kaakbeenontsteking hebben aan overgehouden.

Klik hier voor onze Groenland SPOT-Pagina

Meer foto's van de Groenland Expeditie in ons foto-album

Neem een kijkje op onze kersverse PATAGONIANDREAMS blog

Ciao
Steve en Katrijn



After our warm-up hike along the hot springs of Iceland, we got into a way too small propeller plane toward the great white spot on the northern hemisphere: Greenland. For a small three weeks, we immerse in an adventure in the inhospitable wilderness of East-Greenland, just below the Arctic Circle, where polar bears rule and broadly smiling Inuit chase you out of the village with nothing more than courage and a firm charged gun.

Together with our long time friends, Dries and Ellen, we leave for a self-organized expedition trek along pristine fjords, filled with giant icebergs, over rugged passes and across empty tundra valleys of the far north. A few weeks into the wilderness, away from any form of human civilization can not go on without a firm preparation, even though every day is as unpredictable as the night. You guessed it right: we would encounter no human trace for the coming weeks.

The global warming is affecting the Inuit big time. Not only do the glaciers of the Greenlandic ice sheet
SchweizerlandSchweizerlandSchweizerland

End of the fjord is dotted with knife-bladed granite walls. Ningerti, Sermilikfjord, East-Greenland
melt at a hurling speed, also the annually increasing melting pack ice of the Arctic, drifing away southwards, brings in more polar bears into the region. Where the region, during summer, used to be"polar bear free", the last years more and more polar bears are spotted in full summer along the fjords and around the Inuit villages. In Kulusuk, the village where we start our trek, we hear many stories of polar bear incidents in recent weeks.

The hunter who sales us into a remote fjord, "obliged" us to bring a gun. But we have never ever used a gun before? "No problem, it is very easy, you aim in the direction of the bear and just shoot at chest or head," he laughs .

We already have been in quite a few adventures so far, but what we experience in Greenland, surpasses all our dreams we ever had on this destination. Neck muscle defying granite walls cleave out of of the fjords and valley bottems as knives into the air, perpetual pink sunsets, huge glaciers that filled the fjords with icebergs the size of the football stadiums. And we have not talked about our new hobby: wading glacial rivers...

We could fill
When the sun goes downWhen the sun goes downWhen the sun goes down

Sermilikfjord, East-Greenland
books with our experiences, but above all let us show you a selection of jaw-dropping pictures, which caused a huge infection on our eyes last summer ;-)

Click here for ourGreenland SPOT-Page

More pics in our online photo-album

Take a peek on our fresh PATAGONIANDREAMS blog

Ciao
Steve and Katrijn





Additional photos below
Photos: 136, Displayed: 26


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Iceberg dotted coastIceberg dotted coast
Iceberg dotted coast

Airplane view from the wicked wild coast of East-Greenland. Icebergs float from the north pole along the east coast of Greenland, bringing polar bears into the settlements...
Cloudy BlanketCloudy Blanket
Cloudy Blanket

It's quiet in the Inuit-village of Kulusuk.
Low Tide, Sleepy TimeLow Tide, Sleepy Time
Low Tide, Sleepy Time

The Inuit People live on the rythm of the tides. It determines when they go out to fish and hunt. Time is relative. Kulusuk - East-Greenland
Ice TideIce Tide
Ice Tide

Leaving a small harbour in the arctic is not as easy as you think... Kulusuk, East-Greenland
Bent Apelsin, local Inuit hunterBent Apelsin, local Inuit hunter
Bent Apelsin, local Inuit hunter

Leaving a small harbour in the arctic is not as easy as you think... Kulusuk, East-Greenland
Push push pushPush push push
Push push push

Pushing the boat from an ice sheet. Kulusuk, East-Greenland
Hiding your foodHiding your food
Hiding your food

Making a foodcache in the side moraine of a glacier. To be picked up within a week, when coming from the north. Qingertivaq-fjord, East-Greenland
Start of the trekStart of the trek
Start of the trek

And so we left.... Tasilaq-fjord, East-Greenland
A new passionA new passion
A new passion

Crossing glacier streams Tasilap kua Valley, East-Greenland
NO squitoNO squito
NO squito

Drinking tea with our small,flying critters around, ... always fun. Tasilap kua Valley, East-Greenland
Glacier Hide and SeekGlacier Hide and Seek
Glacier Hide and Seek

Tasilap kua Valley, East-Greenland
Ouch that was a hot streamOuch that was a hot stream
Ouch that was a hot stream

Tasilap kua Valley, East-Greenland
Taking picsTaking pics
Taking pics

Tasilap kua Valley, East-Greenland
The Tarping BusinessThe Tarping Business
The Tarping Business

Yes, we slept under nothing but a tarp in Greenland. Tasilap kua Valley, East-Greenland
Arctic TundraArctic Tundra
Arctic Tundra

No paths, no signs, just follow the valley floor... Tasilap kua Valley, East-Greenland
BivaoucBivaouc
Bivaouc

Unnamed Glacier comiong down from Trilingerne Tasilap kua Valley, East-Greenland


7th October 2011
Blue Haze

splendid picture(s)
Geweldige foto zeg (en die andere foto's ook)! Als ik weer eens een trip naar een schitterend berggebied ga plannen, dan bekijk ik jullie blog om de mooiste uit te kiezen. Pakistan is denk ik mijn favoriet op dit moment, onbeschrijflijk mooi...
22nd February 2012
Arctic Housing

Tiniteqilaaq
Dejligt billede af Tiniteqilaaq, mit barndomshjem<3
28th August 2013

I just did the same trek!
Hello guys, I just completed a 12 day trek in East Greenland and it seems almost the same as your itinerary, though we did an organized trek with a reputable Icelandic company. I will publish my blogs soon but just want to acknowledge how amazing and incredibly beautiful your fotos were and looks like you guys had great fun, I just admire how brave you guys were going at it alone, I would have gotten lost if I did it alone or with friends, the guide had the gun and GPS, that helped..a week before we started another group was visited by a polar bear at the Ammassalik fjord, thankfully no one was hurt..thank you for inspiring me to go to Greenland and hike this area, the best experience one can have for a long long time, my best regards, Gil

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