Discovering Nova Scotia

Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, is mostly populated by Scottish and Acadian descendents in small villages and towns on the coast and the Highlands. You will hear Gaelic and French spoken, and signs are sometimes in two languages. We visited historic Fort Louisbourg, a reconstructed 18th century French fort which protected France’s interests in the New World. To condense history, the fort was captured by the British twice, and the French were evicted both times. The Fort is akin to Colonial Williamsburg in that period-costumed soldiers, servants, and residents provide a taste of settlement life in the 1700s. We also drove the beautiful Cabot Trail which will require its own blog entry.

Some general observations since we’ve been north of the border:

Quirky Maritime food tidbits
Poutine - French fries smothered with gravy and cheese.
Hot Hamburger - a hamburger smothered with gravy and peas.
Donair - a sliced beef product (beef Spam?) sandwich in pita bread with a sweet cream and sugar sauce (really), with diced onion and tomato.
Lobster - McDonald’s has a McLobster and Subway has a Lobster sub.
Iced Tea - We miss Southern iced tea. We’ve been served pre-sweetened tea from a can, instant tea, and tea so strong it made my mouth pucker. Ask before ordering and taste before sweetening. You’ll rarely get a large glass, enough ice, or a lemon wedge (a slice of lemon maybe)—you may not get a refill.
French fries and coleslaw - a standard side dish with fried fish. You will get a huge mountain of fries and a teeny tiny bit of coleslaw.
Fish Cakes - not actual fish cakes, more like potato cakes with bits of fish.

Best food items so far - PEI strawberries, blue mussels, lobster, haddock, scallops, most seafood chowders, Cows ice cream, lunch at The Dunes (Brackley Beach, PEI), and warm whole wheat bread at The Village Bake Shop (North Rustico, PEI)

Other observations:
TransCanada Highway - only two lanes in many places, but usually in good shape. There are very few advertising billboards.
Provincial Visitors Centers - wonderful maps and guidebooks, free of charge.
Lawns - Maritimers love their grass. You will see acres and acres of lawn surrounding even small cottages.
ATM Machines - inside every bank’s outer doors, with no transaction fee.
Sales Tax - there is a 14% tax on almost everything. GST refund for US residents has been eliminated.
Cuba - Canadians can vacation in Cuba and report great beaches.
Friendly Natives - Canadians are very friendly and many have traveled all over the states.
Maritime music - very good folk music, Scottish flavor, includes violins, guitar, piano, and sometimes even bagpipes
Ceilidh’s (pronounced kay-lees) - live Celtic music performances held in church halls and community centers everywhere.

We've found the Maritime Provinces to be delightful so far.

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